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35480Re: [MILL_DRILL] RE: X axis Backlash

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  • Vern VanZ
    Feb 23, 2014
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      "This removed most of the backlash and adjusting the split lead-screw nut to give slight resistance removed the rest of the backlash. I used an hex allen socket on an extension to do this nut adjustment."

      I checked this, and had forgotten that when I first went about cleaning up this old machine, I had backed the screw out a bit.  I did this so that I could more easily work the lead screw back and forth, both to clean it, as well as lubricate it.  Unfortunately, in my haste to begin using the beast, forgot to re-tighten/adjust it!  I'm amazed that it didn't simply fall out due to vibration...  There is still play of < 0.01 ", so I might be able to take it down even further.  But I tried a climb cut (approx 0.005" deep) on CR steel, and it worked great.  I had also snugged up the X direction gib just enough to take out slop, and as always, locked the Y.  

      At any rate, thanks again for calling this out.  No telling how long this would have gone unchecked!

      Best regards,
      -Vern

      On Thursday, February 20, 2014 11:51 AM, n7gtb <n7gtb@...> wrote:

      Tom,

      Thanks for your input.  I will certainly check for end play on my mill-drill.

      Best regards,
      -Vern


      Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S® III mini, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
      <br><br>-------- Original message --------<br>From: ndhr23a@... <br>Date:02/20/2014  08:26  (GMT-08:00) <br>To: MILL_DRILL@yahoogroups.com <br>Subject: [MILL_DRILL] RE: X axis Backlash <br><br>


      My HF33686 had 0.030"-0.040" backlash when I first got it but I was able to adjust it to almost zero backlash and climb milling is no problem. My biggest source of backlash was from the lead screw not being in tension. When I turned the knob a noticeable gap was visible between the bearing block and graduated collar. I fixed this by cutting a couple of shims from aluminum cans to place between the bearing block and the table so that when I replaced the tapered pin, the lead-screw was placed under a little tension.  This removed most of the backlash and adjusting the split lead-screw nut to give slight resistance removed the rest of the backlash. I used an hex allen socket on an extension to do this nut adjustment.
       In addition to removing all the backlash from the leadscrew you also need to adjust the gibs to the point that slight resistance to movement is noticed for successful climb milling. Also, don't forget to lock the y-axis movement when climb milling.

      -Tom





      My HF33686 had 0.030"-0.040" backlash when I first got it but I was able to adjust it to almost zero backlash and climb milling is no problem. My biggest source of backlash was from the lead screw not being in tension. When I turned the knob a noticeable gap was visible between the bearing block and graduated collar. I fixed this by cutting a couple of shims from aluminum cans to place between the bearing block and the table so that when I replaced the tapered pin, the lead-screw was placed under a little tension.  This removed most of the backlash and adjusting the split lead-screw nut to give slight resistance removed the rest of the backlash. I used an hex allen socket on an extension to do this nut adjustment.
       In addition to removing all the backlash from the leadscrew you also need to adjust the gibs to the point that slight resistance to movement is noticed for successful climb milling. Also, don't forget to lock the y-axis movement when climb milling.

      -Tom




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