18789Re: Plug Removal
- Dec 10, 2007Thanks to all for several good ideas.
I'll try a spring first, air pressure, drilling extra holes, and look
into a broach type cutter last.
Your feedback is appreciated.
--- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "leasingham_connelly"
> --- In email@example.com, "roylpopecharternet" <rlpope@>
> > Anyone have a good method for removing the plug from a bi-metal
> > saw after cutting a hole in steel???
> > I'm not too happy trying to jab them out with a small screwdriver.
> > Thanks,
> > Roy
> The problem with hole saws is that they can warm up when used. This
> makes them expand and the plug then gets trapped as the saw cools
> when the cut is finished. You could try backing out before you get
> all the way thru, let the saw cool then clean up the groove with the
> cool blade before finishing the hole. As Miker suggested you can fit
> a spring, Starrett sell them for this purpose but any suitable
> strength and size should do. Rexarino's idea of two opposing holes
> is also workable, if drilling into material that is more than 16
> gauge then a hole at the periphery is recommended for chips to
> escape thru so that it does not build up in the groove and cause
> heat build up due to excessive rubbing. A good quality arbor is also
> essential. One that has a nut that clamps the back plate down onto
> the saw is much better than the spring loaded type that leave the
> blade loose to rattle about the drive pins.
> If you have a regular requirement to use a hole saw of a particular
> size consider getting a broach type cutter. They give a much cleaner
> hole and last a long time if used correctly. They can be mounted in
> a 3/4" or 19mm collet and are far better than holesaws on stainless
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