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13599Re: Rong-Fu Mill questions

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  • konsumingfire
    Dec 2, 2005
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      Thanks for the info. I will give it a try. By the way, what
      is "LPS"? I googled it and found it at lpslabs.com. Is this the
      same stuff you are talking about? Would you recommend it for other
      uses besides relubing the spindle?


      --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Pace" <pace8@b...> wrote:
      > Sounds like youve got a case of "gummed" lubricant. This is prone
      > happen when my milldrill sits idle, I just start spraying on
      > whatever spray lube is handy, WD-40, etc, to loosen it up, usually
      > doesnt take much. Lower the quill as far as will go and wet it
      > & wipe off, with it back up, look all over to find a peep hole to
      > spray on it in the up position. When freed up ,I usually put a
      > coat of LPS on it, but most any of the spray lubes will suffice if
      > done on a fairly often schedule. The same thing will happen to the
      > lead screws and ways on the tables, so a shot on them at the same
      > time is a good idea.
      > Sounds like you got quite a find there in the "Birmy" (I got a
      > Birmy lathe and really like it)
      > --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "konsumingfire"
      > <konsumingfire@y...> wrote:
      > >
      > > I purchased a used bench mill recently, and have some questions
      > > about it. It is badged as a Birmingham, "made in taiwan", and
      > looks
      > > exactly like the RF-30/31.
      > >
      > > The main problem I am having is that it has sat for a little
      > > after I got it and the spindle has become more difficult to move
      > up
      > > and down with the spoke handle. It still moves vertically but
      > > pretty darn sticky. When I first got it, it was nice and
      > I
      > > made certain to undo the fixed bolt that locks the spindle in
      > place
      > > for machining work. Tightening the bolt makes it stick
      > > However, loosening it only allows sticky movement.
      > > I am assuming it needs lubricating, but am not certain where or
      > how
      > > to oil, or if it needs grease instead. I am hesitant to use oil
      > > until I know it won't wash out any grease. The manual is in
      > > Chinglish and is impossible to decipher exactly how to
      > > It keeps talking about "filling the lubricant" which makes it
      > sound
      > > like there is a reservoir on the machine. If there is one I
      > haven't
      > > found it!
      > > I am assuming I need to take off the depth stop gauge cover or
      > > something to get to the rack sleeve behind it???
      > > Any ideas on what I need to do? What kind of oil/grease should
      > > use?
      > >
      > > The history of my machine is that I got it from an old timer who
      > > used it for one quick job, made a stack of change, and then it
      > > in his storage unit for a few months. While in there, he had it
      > > tarped but a water leak in the roof got on it, and leaked
      > > the new tarp. The only damage from that was surface rust on
      > > 2/3 of the table. He oiled the surface as soon as he discovered
      > it,
      > > but did not fix the rust because he was going to sell it and
      > wanted
      > > to leave it up to the new owner how best to fix it. After I
      > bought
      > > it, I got a flat knife sharpening stone and within a few minutes
      > > removed the rust (which was like a varnish, mostly) and then re-
      > > oiled it.
      > > When I got it the table rust was the only thing wrong with it,
      > > except it was missing all its tooling, which I remedied over the
      > > past few months. The machine itself is in pretty sharp
      > > otherwise. I don't think it got any water down the spindle, so
      > I'm
      > > not worried about any corrosion in there.
      > >
      > > I am completely new and ignorant to machining work. I am
      > to
      > > get started, and need some advice on fixing this problem.
      > >
      > > Many thanks,
      > > Rick
      > >
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