Re: [midatlanticretro] question about tantalum capacitors
A Tantalum cap is not always implied when you see a value for capacitance. The simple thing to remember is that Tantalum caps are a big advantage due to it's compactness. They offered more capacitance in the same volume. Still even today with the surface mount components. There's a multitude of materials used in cap's each with their own advantages/disadvantages for various design applications--and even newer material and design processes in today's cap's.
The familiar 'gumdrop'--dipped tantalum caps can be a good substitute though it might be a little too big for that board--don't let it rub against anything and cause the covering to chip away or heat up from the adjacent components--they are fragile. I recall that the specs for the molded axial 'barrel' style did offer better electrical characteristics since they're made to be rugged for these computer designs.. The gum drop style is what you normally found in traditional low-end consumer products which didn't generate much heat, such as VCR's or CD players.
BTW, if you havent found any suppliers, just a quick check--another place is ALL ELECTRONICS, --they have the barrel style in that small size (#AT-225)
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B. Degnan wrote:
From the Morrow Thinker Toys Wunderbuss with Noiseguard schematic (S-100),
there's a reference to a 2.2mfd in position C16. I don't have any other
useful documentation. C16 is burned out and needs to be replaced. Does
2.2 MicroFarad (mfd) mean the same thing as a "2.2uF tantalum capacitor"? -
I have some 2.2uF 35v gum drop style tantalum capacitors on hand.
The original part is cylinder-shaped, but I understand that these have been
replaced with the "gum drop" style.
I know that you need to make sure you put the + end in the correct slot. I
understand that 35V is good, yes?
I thought I'd ask some of the experts here in the group before I do
anything rash. Thanks in advance.
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mfd is the same as uF. In general, uF is the preferred way
to write it these days. Also, pF is the same as picofarad.
I've never seen pfd. Polarity is super important with tantalum and
also aluminum electrolytic caps. They can explode if installed
backwards. (Lots of fun!) Make sure that the voltage across
C16 is less that 35V. At least 5V of margin might be a good idea.
If the old cap is cylindrical, it may be an aluminum electrolytic.
Even so, a tantalum should be a suitable replacement for it.
--- "B. Degnan" <billdeg@...> wrote:
> From the Morrow Thinker Toys Wunderbuss with Noiseguard schematic____________________________________________________________________________________
> there's a reference to a 2.2mfd in position C16. I don't have any
> useful documentation. C16 is burned out and needs to be replaced.
> 2.2 MicroFarad (mfd) mean the same thing as a "2.2uF tantalum
> capacitor"? -
> I have some 2.2uF 35v gum drop style tantalum capacitors on hand.
> The original part is cylinder-shaped, but I understand that these
> have been
> replaced with the "gum drop" style.
> I know that you need to make sure you put the + end in the correct
> slot. I
> understand that 35V is good, yes?
> I thought I'd ask some of the experts here in the group before I do
> anything rash. Thanks in advance.
> Bill Degnan
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