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Re: [midatlanticretro] Important museum update

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  • William Donzelli
    ... If the metal doorframes come anywhere near contact with wood, even studs inside the walls, using a heat gun is ABSOLUTELY NOT RECOMMENDED. The risk for
    Message 1 of 12 , Aug 6, 2007
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      > You van try using a Heatgun (not a hairdryer) it's not as lethal as a blowtorch, but still effective. It'll make the paint layers bubble up so you can scrape it off with a putty knife.

      If the metal doorframes come anywhere near contact with wood, even
      studs inside the walls, using a heat gun is ABSOLUTELY NOT
      RECOMMENDED. The risk for fire is very large. If the metal doorframes
      ONLY touch masonry, you can use a heat gun.

      Heatguns are OK on wood, of course.

      --
      Will
    • Dan Roganti
      In any event, you might have to resort to just painting over to avoid any EPA issues regarding paint removal/fumes on an old gov t/state installation since
      Message 2 of 12 , Aug 6, 2007
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        In any event, you might have to resort to just painting over to avoid any EPA issues regarding paint removal/fumes on an old gov't/state installation since there's most likely lead in that paint--in some or all the layers--there's strict guidelines for lead paint removal. Something Fred probably didnt want to elaborate to avoid giving you any more headaches :)

        A blowtorch, as suggested previously, has a much higher temp than a heatgun, >1000F
        At least with a heatgun, you can use the low setting , usually 700/800F
        Even a heatgun can cause burn spots in wood if not used correctly.
        In combination with the large surface area of the sheet metal doorframe creates a heatsink which disperses the heat.
        An old trick I always do on a window pane is to cover the window glass with sheet metal to protect it from cracking under the heat when removing old paint.

        =Dan


        William Donzelli wrote:

        > You van try using a Heatgun (not a hairdryer) it's not as lethal as a blowtorch, but still effective. It'll make the paint layers bubble up so you can scrape it off with a putty knife.

        If the metal doorframes come anywhere near contact with wood, even
        studs inside the walls, using a heat gun is ABSOLUTELY NOT
        RECOMMENDED. The risk for fire is very large. If the metal doorframes
        ONLY touch masonry, you can use a heat gun.

        Heatguns are OK on wood, of course.

        --
        Will


        No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.6/938 - Release Date: 8/5/2007 4:16 PM
      • Sridhar Ayengar
        ... I ve done a fair amount of work restoring old wooden fireplace mantles. I ve found that there are quite a few solvents out there that work just as well as
        Message 3 of 12 , Aug 6, 2007
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          Dan Roganti wrote:
          > A blowtorch, as suggested previously, has a much higher temp than a
          > heatgun, >1000F
          > At least with a heatgun, you can use the low setting , usually 700/800F
          > Even a heatgun can cause burn spots in wood if not used correctly.
          > In combination with the large surface area of the sheet metal doorframe
          > creates a heatsink which disperses the heat.
          > An old trick I always do on a window pane is to cover the window glass
          > with sheet metal to protect it from cracking under the heat when
          > removing old paint.

          I've done a fair amount of work restoring old wooden fireplace mantles.
          I've found that there are quite a few solvents out there that work
          just as well as heat, but are much more gentle. Just read some of the
          reviews.

          Peace... Sridhar
        • William Donzelli
          ... Really, using a heatgun on a metal doorframe with contact to wood within the wall is REALLY DANGEROUS. Yes, the metal sinks the heat. Where? Unless you rip
          Message 4 of 12 , Aug 6, 2007
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            > A blowtorch, as suggested previously, has a much higher temp than a heatgun, >1000F
            > At least with a heatgun, you can use the low setting , usually 700/800F
            > Even a heatgun can cause burn spots in wood if not used correctly.
            > In combination with the large surface area of the sheet metal doorframe creates a heatsink which disperses the heat.

            Really, using a heatgun on a metal doorframe with contact to wood
            within the wall is REALLY DANGEROUS. Yes, the metal sinks the heat.
            Where? Unless you rip the wall open, you do not know. It might sink it
            to a select few places with dry old wood, or some of the awful
            flammable junk that used to pass for insulation. The thermal
            resistance of a metal to wood joint is much lower that that of the
            hot-air to wood (or hot-air to metal, for that matter). It is easy to
            get carried away with a hot-air gun (the temperature controls on those
            things are not precise, as well), and you really might not know about
            charring wood within the wall until too late.

            As for stripping around glass on a window? Remove the glass. The putty
            holding the pane is probably in need a replacement anyway.

            --
            Will
          • Evan Koblentz
            Heh ... you guys make a good point ... Don t burn down the museum. :)
            Message 5 of 12 , Aug 6, 2007
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              Heh ... you guys make a good point ... "Don't burn down the museum." :)


              >> A blowtorch, as suggested previously, has a much higher temp than a
              >> heatgun, >1000F
              >> At least with a heatgun, you can use the low setting , usually 700/800F
              >> Even a heatgun can cause burn spots in wood if not used correctly.
              >> In combination with the large surface area of the sheet metal doorframe
              >> creates a heatsink which disperses the heat.
              >
              > Really, using a heatgun on a metal doorframe with contact to wood
              > within the wall is REALLY DANGEROUS. Yes, the metal sinks the heat.
              > Where? Unless you rip the wall open, you do not know. It might sink it
              > to a select few places with dry old wood, or some of the awful
              > flammable junk that used to pass for insulation. The thermal
              > resistance of a metal to wood joint is much lower that that of the
              > hot-air to wood (or hot-air to metal, for that matter). It is easy to
              > get carried away with a hot-air gun (the temperature controls on those
              > things are not precise, as well), and you really might not know about
              > charring wood within the wall until too late.
              >
              > As for stripping around glass on a window? Remove the glass. The putty
              > holding the pane is probably in need a replacement anyway.
              >
              > --
              > Will
              >
              >
              >
              > Yahoo! Groups Links
              >
              >
              >
              >
            • Evan Koblentz
              Jeff J., Corey, and myself all did some museum work this week. We found some bad news, water-wise, about our warehouse area. Most important thing first:
              Message 6 of 12 , Dec 11, 2013
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                Jeff J., Corey, and myself all did some museum work this week. We found
                some bad news, water-wise, about our warehouse area.

                Most important thing first: nothing is damaged. A few boxes are slightly
                wet, etc., but that's all.

                What happened is the outside roof tarp gave way in the last storm. In
                response to that, Jeff J. and I last week bought several smaller indoor
                tarps to cover the vast majority of our equipment. We considered this
                precautionary, because other than one specific corner, there aren't any
                significant leaks on the half of the building where our storage resides.
                All of the bad leaks are across the hall, which is mostly empty space
                right now. Those are VERY bad, but they aren't impacting our collection.

                The new tarps worked -- sort of. Rather than divert any water around our
                shelving units and onto the floor, they "caught" water in some puddles
                atop the tarps.

                Jeff was there again this past Sunday and did what he could (he was
                working alone) to tip that water off the tarps and onto the floor, which
                is safer than it appears, because the shelving units are all several
                inches off the floor due to their wheels/legs. Corey and I did another
                round of that today.

                The latest weather report calls for light snow on Saturday and rain on
                Sunday. Corey volunteered to go to the museum at least once a week, for
                the next couple of months, to continue the process if necessary.

                I went to talk to Fred about all of this. He had mixed news for us.

                The town council was supposed to discuss the roof bid/contract at their
                meeting tonight. Now they aren't. Apparently they have 175K put aside
                for the roofs (our section and six others), but the work estimate
                increased into the 200s, so they're trying to find money for it. Fred
                asked the town officials, "Why can't you just do what you can now [such
                as MARCH's section -EK] and finish the rest later?" ... he's waiting for
                an answer.

                However, Fred also said he's ready and able to spend some InfoAge money
                on new outdoor tarps for our building -- better ones than the previous
                outdoor tarps -- and he's trying to make arrangements with the
                contractor that does this work.

                I'm trying to find out how much the better outdoor tarps cost. Maybe
                MARCH could help InfoAge pay for it. Money tends to grease the wheels.

                So, when some of you visit our storage area during Festivus (we'll do an
                organized trip across campus), please "don't panic" as stated on the
                cover of HHGG. It might look bad inside: giant leaks/puddles on the
                empty side and possibly some small rivers between the aisles among our
                shelving units. * We * put those rivers there ... it stinks, but it's
                better than having the water atop our collection.

                Given the cold, and the vast size of the building, there's no point in
                running a small dehumidifier.

                We always said that our collection, while in a building without HVAC, at
                least had a solid roof, security, and a concrete floor. Right now we
                really only have 2 of those 3 things. Our roof is in bad shape. The town
                has the money earmarked to fix it but they're moving crazy slow.

                Fred suggested that as an extra precaution we might be able to hang some
                of the indoor tarps at an angle, rather than just laying them across the
                top of the shelves, so they automatically divert water onto the floor. I
                don't know if that will work because we have a lot of equipment in the room.

                One half of our current half of the building has no leaks at all. We
                just might stuff everything onto that side, temporarily, until there's a
                better outer tarp and/or until the roof is fixed. I hope to avoid that
                step because it would be massively inconvenient (we wouldn't be able to
                get to anything) .... holding off on a decision for now.

                There is also some unrelated good news.

                - I heard back from "The Americans" prop folks. They're probably going
                to do another rental from us after the new year.

                - In the museum, Corey hung up a very nice (and extremely funny!) framed
                puzzle of a cartoon computer that I built with my girlfriend, after Jeff
                J. and I found it during a rescue mission several months ago. The puzzle
                is colorful and looks great on our wall. Here it is a few months ago
                before I framed it: http://snarc.net/puzzle.jpg and here it is now
                hanging in the museum next to our IBM 1130: http://snarc.net/puzzle2.jpg.

                - Corey and I also moved some clutter out of the way in the building
                9059 event room where Festivus will be held. In addition, Corey dropped
                off his own projecter; an Apple II+ loaded with games on a CF card; and
                some adult beverages.

                - InfoAge carpeted our museum hallway a few weeks ago. Much nicer than
                hideous old tile! I would have preferred new clean tile, but it's still
                an upgrade. Today I vacuumed the hallway and all four of our exhibit rooms.
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