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Fw:Scrapping off old paint

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  • D Bailey
    Dear Brother At various sizes, and if or not you are using a blow torch (which is effective in gently softening old paint by heat taking care however to avoid
    Message 1 of 2 , Aug 5 8:02 PM
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      Dear Brother
       
      At various sizes, and if or not you are using a blow torch (which is effective in gently softening old paint by heat taking care however to avoid burning and/or scorching any wood), followed by the use of a skarsten scraper.  This scraper will give a finish very nearly immediately suitable for priming etc
       
       
       
      Another brother  UK based
       
       
       
       
      ----- Original Message -----
      Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 2:40 AM
      Subject: Re: [midatlanticretro] Important museum update

      > Yesterday, Joe and I spent several hours scraping FOUR layers of paint off the
      > metal doorframes in the entrance area to our future museum rooms.

      Wuss. Let me know whenyou have to deal with paint that comes in eight
      inch incements.

      > We considered using a belt sander (while we'd wear respirators) , and/or using an
      > industrial solvent of some kind, but I spoke with Fred yesterday and again today,
      > and he said "no way" to those ideas. He assures me that new paint designed to
      > adhere to metal, i.e. Rustoleum, while work a lot better than I expect. And he says
      > that choosing the right color, such as dark green or blue, will cover up most of the
      > bumpy areas where old paint is still underneath.

      The best way to remove paint, in my opinion, is still an old triangle
      shaped chipper (other shapes are available), or the "green"
      environmentally freindly goops. Stay away from the nasty petrochemical
      things of old - they work, but leave such a mess, and you slowly die..
      When you have a lot of time (a couple of days) and large flat expanses
      (like on a door), the green goop is pretty great.

      I am currently (always?) restoring a house from 1776, with my cousin
      (half owner of the house) being a classcially trained archiologist
      often looking over my shoulder, so I get to do a LOT of very proper
      paint removal.

      A standard chipper, with a *light* touch, can do wonders. Make sure
      the blades are SHARP. Yes, there will be some damage to the wood, but
      nothing a little steam or filler can not fix. And with metal? No big
      deal, unless you are Hercules. When you strip, you MUST strip it all.
      Modern paints WILL NOT hide half stripped areas. Nothing will. If you
      chip, be prepared to chip it ALL, or be skilled at filling and sanding
      the transition zone, so the differences in the paint will be hidden.

      Dark colors are better than light colors for hiding flaws, but better
      yet is the lustre of the paint - the flatter the paint is, the more
      sins are hidden. Unfortuneately, flat paints tend to look bad on
      moulding and doorframes, so pick something middle of the road -
      semi-gloss.

      I am still a fan (and user) of oil paints (like Rustoleum), but unless
      you realy know what you are doing, stick to latex. Good latex, as in
      Baer or Benjamin Moore. WIth paint, you get what you pay for. And if
      you must ue oils, used a Benjamin Moore oil. A few places will still
      color match oils.

      The choice is yours when it comes to painting. If you do a quick job,
      you will need to do a quick repaint later. Do a very careful complete
      job, and you can ignore it for years.

      --
      Will

    • Evan Koblentz
      Dear brother? A UK person on MARCH? Huh??? Anyway, I will check out this skarsten thing, never heard of that before. ... From: D Bailey
      Message 2 of 2 , Aug 5 8:17 PM
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        Dear brother?  A UK person on MARCH?  Huh???

         

        Anyway, I will check out this “skarsten” thing, never heard of that before.

         

        -----Original Message-----
        From: D Bailey [mailto:ddbailey_2234@...]
        Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2007 11:02 PM
        To: midatlanticretro@yahoogroups.com
        Subject: [midatlanticretro] Fw:Scrapping off old paint

         

        Dear Brother

         

        At various sizes, and if or not you are using a blow torch (which is effective in gently softening old paint by heat taking care however to avoid burning and/or scorching any wood), followed by the use of a skarsten scraper.  This scraper will give a finish very nearly immediately suitable for priming etc

         

         

         

        Another brother  UK based

         

         

         

         

        ----- Original Message -----

        Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 2:40 AM

        Subject: Re: [midatlanticretro] Important museum update

         

        > Yesterday, Joe and I spent several hours scraping FOUR layers of paint off the

        > metal doorframes in the entrance area to our future museum rooms.

        Wuss. Let me know whenyou have to deal with paint that comes in eight
        inch incements.

        > We considered using a belt sander (while we'd wear respirators) , and/or
        using an
        > industrial solvent of some kind, but I spoke with Fred yesterday and again
        today,
        > and he said "no way" to those ideas. He assures me that new
        paint designed to
        > adhere to metal, i.e. Rustoleum, while work a lot better than I expect.
        And he says
        > that choosing the right color, such as dark green or blue, will cover up
        most of the
        > bumpy areas where old paint is still underneath.

        The best way to remove paint, in my opinion, is still an old triangle
        shaped chipper (other shapes are available), or the "green"
        environmentally freindly goops. Stay away from the nasty petrochemical
        things of old - they work, but leave such a mess, and you slowly die..
        When you have a lot of time (a couple of days) and large flat expanses
        (like on a door), the green goop is pretty great.

        I am currently (always?) restoring a house from 1776, with my cousin
        (half owner of the house) being a classcially trained archiologist
        often looking over my shoulder, so I get to do a LOT of very proper
        paint removal.

        A standard chipper, with a *light* touch, can do wonders. Make sure
        the blades are SHARP. Yes, there will be some damage to the wood, but
        nothing a little steam or filler can not fix. And with metal? No big
        deal, unless you are Hercules. When you strip, you MUST strip it all.
        Modern paints WILL NOT hide half stripped areas. Nothing will. If you
        chip, be prepared to chip it ALL, or be skilled at filling and sanding
        the transition zone, so the differences in the paint will be hidden.

        Dark colors are better than light colors for hiding flaws, but better
        yet is the lustre of the paint - the flatter the paint is, the more
        sins are hidden. Unfortuneately, flat paints tend to look bad on
        moulding and doorframes, so pick something middle of the road -
        semi-gloss.

        I am still a fan (and user) of oil paints (like Rustoleum), but unless
        you realy know what you are doing, stick to latex. Good latex, as in
        Baer or Benjamin Moore. WIth paint, you get what you pay for. And if
        you must ue oils, used a Benjamin Moore oil. A few places will still
        color match oils.

        The choice is yours when it comes to painting. If you do a quick job,
        you will need to do a quick repaint later. Do a very careful complete
        job, and you can ignore it for years.

        --
        Will

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