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RE: [midatlanticretro] Important museum update

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  • Evan Koblentz
    ... Will, thanks for all this good advice. I suspect that InfoAge s tool edges are dull and haven t been replaced in eons. Maybe I ll try again with some new
    Message 1 of 12 , Aug 5, 2007
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      >>> The best way to remove paint, in my opinion

      Will, thanks for all this good advice. I suspect that InfoAge's tool
      edges are dull and haven't been replaced in eons. Maybe I'll try again
      with some new blades.

      Or you could come visit and be as helpful as you were at VCF. :)

      - Evan
    • Dan Roganti
      You van try using a Heatgun (not a hairdryer) it s not as lethal as a blowtorch, but still effective. It ll make the paint layers bubble up so you can scrape
      Message 2 of 12 , Aug 6, 2007
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        You van try using a Heatgun (not a hairdryer) it's not as lethal as a blowtorch, but still effective. It'll make the paint layers bubble up so you can scrape it off with a putty knife.

        =Dan

        Evan Koblentz wrote:


         

        Yesterday, Joe and I spent several hours scraping FOUR layers of paint off the metal doorframes in the entrance area to our future museum rooms.  We removed the vast majority of the peeling paint, but there’s a LOT of non-peeling paint still there.  It seems to be a really massive challenge, time-wise, to remove all of that old paint.

        
          
      • William Donzelli
        ... If the metal doorframes come anywhere near contact with wood, even studs inside the walls, using a heat gun is ABSOLUTELY NOT RECOMMENDED. The risk for
        Message 3 of 12 , Aug 6, 2007
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          > You van try using a Heatgun (not a hairdryer) it's not as lethal as a blowtorch, but still effective. It'll make the paint layers bubble up so you can scrape it off with a putty knife.

          If the metal doorframes come anywhere near contact with wood, even
          studs inside the walls, using a heat gun is ABSOLUTELY NOT
          RECOMMENDED. The risk for fire is very large. If the metal doorframes
          ONLY touch masonry, you can use a heat gun.

          Heatguns are OK on wood, of course.

          --
          Will
        • Dan Roganti
          In any event, you might have to resort to just painting over to avoid any EPA issues regarding paint removal/fumes on an old gov t/state installation since
          Message 4 of 12 , Aug 6, 2007
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            In any event, you might have to resort to just painting over to avoid any EPA issues regarding paint removal/fumes on an old gov't/state installation since there's most likely lead in that paint--in some or all the layers--there's strict guidelines for lead paint removal. Something Fred probably didnt want to elaborate to avoid giving you any more headaches :)

            A blowtorch, as suggested previously, has a much higher temp than a heatgun, >1000F
            At least with a heatgun, you can use the low setting , usually 700/800F
            Even a heatgun can cause burn spots in wood if not used correctly.
            In combination with the large surface area of the sheet metal doorframe creates a heatsink which disperses the heat.
            An old trick I always do on a window pane is to cover the window glass with sheet metal to protect it from cracking under the heat when removing old paint.

            =Dan


            William Donzelli wrote:

            > You van try using a Heatgun (not a hairdryer) it's not as lethal as a blowtorch, but still effective. It'll make the paint layers bubble up so you can scrape it off with a putty knife.

            If the metal doorframes come anywhere near contact with wood, even
            studs inside the walls, using a heat gun is ABSOLUTELY NOT
            RECOMMENDED. The risk for fire is very large. If the metal doorframes
            ONLY touch masonry, you can use a heat gun.

            Heatguns are OK on wood, of course.

            --
            Will


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          • Sridhar Ayengar
            ... I ve done a fair amount of work restoring old wooden fireplace mantles. I ve found that there are quite a few solvents out there that work just as well as
            Message 5 of 12 , Aug 6, 2007
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              Dan Roganti wrote:
              > A blowtorch, as suggested previously, has a much higher temp than a
              > heatgun, >1000F
              > At least with a heatgun, you can use the low setting , usually 700/800F
              > Even a heatgun can cause burn spots in wood if not used correctly.
              > In combination with the large surface area of the sheet metal doorframe
              > creates a heatsink which disperses the heat.
              > An old trick I always do on a window pane is to cover the window glass
              > with sheet metal to protect it from cracking under the heat when
              > removing old paint.

              I've done a fair amount of work restoring old wooden fireplace mantles.
              I've found that there are quite a few solvents out there that work
              just as well as heat, but are much more gentle. Just read some of the
              reviews.

              Peace... Sridhar
            • William Donzelli
              ... Really, using a heatgun on a metal doorframe with contact to wood within the wall is REALLY DANGEROUS. Yes, the metal sinks the heat. Where? Unless you rip
              Message 6 of 12 , Aug 6, 2007
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                > A blowtorch, as suggested previously, has a much higher temp than a heatgun, >1000F
                > At least with a heatgun, you can use the low setting , usually 700/800F
                > Even a heatgun can cause burn spots in wood if not used correctly.
                > In combination with the large surface area of the sheet metal doorframe creates a heatsink which disperses the heat.

                Really, using a heatgun on a metal doorframe with contact to wood
                within the wall is REALLY DANGEROUS. Yes, the metal sinks the heat.
                Where? Unless you rip the wall open, you do not know. It might sink it
                to a select few places with dry old wood, or some of the awful
                flammable junk that used to pass for insulation. The thermal
                resistance of a metal to wood joint is much lower that that of the
                hot-air to wood (or hot-air to metal, for that matter). It is easy to
                get carried away with a hot-air gun (the temperature controls on those
                things are not precise, as well), and you really might not know about
                charring wood within the wall until too late.

                As for stripping around glass on a window? Remove the glass. The putty
                holding the pane is probably in need a replacement anyway.

                --
                Will
              • Evan Koblentz
                Heh ... you guys make a good point ... Don t burn down the museum. :)
                Message 7 of 12 , Aug 6, 2007
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                  Heh ... you guys make a good point ... "Don't burn down the museum." :)


                  >> A blowtorch, as suggested previously, has a much higher temp than a
                  >> heatgun, >1000F
                  >> At least with a heatgun, you can use the low setting , usually 700/800F
                  >> Even a heatgun can cause burn spots in wood if not used correctly.
                  >> In combination with the large surface area of the sheet metal doorframe
                  >> creates a heatsink which disperses the heat.
                  >
                  > Really, using a heatgun on a metal doorframe with contact to wood
                  > within the wall is REALLY DANGEROUS. Yes, the metal sinks the heat.
                  > Where? Unless you rip the wall open, you do not know. It might sink it
                  > to a select few places with dry old wood, or some of the awful
                  > flammable junk that used to pass for insulation. The thermal
                  > resistance of a metal to wood joint is much lower that that of the
                  > hot-air to wood (or hot-air to metal, for that matter). It is easy to
                  > get carried away with a hot-air gun (the temperature controls on those
                  > things are not precise, as well), and you really might not know about
                  > charring wood within the wall until too late.
                  >
                  > As for stripping around glass on a window? Remove the glass. The putty
                  > holding the pane is probably in need a replacement anyway.
                  >
                  > --
                  > Will
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  > Yahoo! Groups Links
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                • Evan Koblentz
                  Jeff J., Corey, and myself all did some museum work this week. We found some bad news, water-wise, about our warehouse area. Most important thing first:
                  Message 8 of 12 , Dec 11, 2013
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                    Jeff J., Corey, and myself all did some museum work this week. We found
                    some bad news, water-wise, about our warehouse area.

                    Most important thing first: nothing is damaged. A few boxes are slightly
                    wet, etc., but that's all.

                    What happened is the outside roof tarp gave way in the last storm. In
                    response to that, Jeff J. and I last week bought several smaller indoor
                    tarps to cover the vast majority of our equipment. We considered this
                    precautionary, because other than one specific corner, there aren't any
                    significant leaks on the half of the building where our storage resides.
                    All of the bad leaks are across the hall, which is mostly empty space
                    right now. Those are VERY bad, but they aren't impacting our collection.

                    The new tarps worked -- sort of. Rather than divert any water around our
                    shelving units and onto the floor, they "caught" water in some puddles
                    atop the tarps.

                    Jeff was there again this past Sunday and did what he could (he was
                    working alone) to tip that water off the tarps and onto the floor, which
                    is safer than it appears, because the shelving units are all several
                    inches off the floor due to their wheels/legs. Corey and I did another
                    round of that today.

                    The latest weather report calls for light snow on Saturday and rain on
                    Sunday. Corey volunteered to go to the museum at least once a week, for
                    the next couple of months, to continue the process if necessary.

                    I went to talk to Fred about all of this. He had mixed news for us.

                    The town council was supposed to discuss the roof bid/contract at their
                    meeting tonight. Now they aren't. Apparently they have 175K put aside
                    for the roofs (our section and six others), but the work estimate
                    increased into the 200s, so they're trying to find money for it. Fred
                    asked the town officials, "Why can't you just do what you can now [such
                    as MARCH's section -EK] and finish the rest later?" ... he's waiting for
                    an answer.

                    However, Fred also said he's ready and able to spend some InfoAge money
                    on new outdoor tarps for our building -- better ones than the previous
                    outdoor tarps -- and he's trying to make arrangements with the
                    contractor that does this work.

                    I'm trying to find out how much the better outdoor tarps cost. Maybe
                    MARCH could help InfoAge pay for it. Money tends to grease the wheels.

                    So, when some of you visit our storage area during Festivus (we'll do an
                    organized trip across campus), please "don't panic" as stated on the
                    cover of HHGG. It might look bad inside: giant leaks/puddles on the
                    empty side and possibly some small rivers between the aisles among our
                    shelving units. * We * put those rivers there ... it stinks, but it's
                    better than having the water atop our collection.

                    Given the cold, and the vast size of the building, there's no point in
                    running a small dehumidifier.

                    We always said that our collection, while in a building without HVAC, at
                    least had a solid roof, security, and a concrete floor. Right now we
                    really only have 2 of those 3 things. Our roof is in bad shape. The town
                    has the money earmarked to fix it but they're moving crazy slow.

                    Fred suggested that as an extra precaution we might be able to hang some
                    of the indoor tarps at an angle, rather than just laying them across the
                    top of the shelves, so they automatically divert water onto the floor. I
                    don't know if that will work because we have a lot of equipment in the room.

                    One half of our current half of the building has no leaks at all. We
                    just might stuff everything onto that side, temporarily, until there's a
                    better outer tarp and/or until the roof is fixed. I hope to avoid that
                    step because it would be massively inconvenient (we wouldn't be able to
                    get to anything) .... holding off on a decision for now.

                    There is also some unrelated good news.

                    - I heard back from "The Americans" prop folks. They're probably going
                    to do another rental from us after the new year.

                    - In the museum, Corey hung up a very nice (and extremely funny!) framed
                    puzzle of a cartoon computer that I built with my girlfriend, after Jeff
                    J. and I found it during a rescue mission several months ago. The puzzle
                    is colorful and looks great on our wall. Here it is a few months ago
                    before I framed it: http://snarc.net/puzzle.jpg and here it is now
                    hanging in the museum next to our IBM 1130: http://snarc.net/puzzle2.jpg.

                    - Corey and I also moved some clutter out of the way in the building
                    9059 event room where Festivus will be held. In addition, Corey dropped
                    off his own projecter; an Apple II+ loaded with games on a CF card; and
                    some adult beverages.

                    - InfoAge carpeted our museum hallway a few weeks ago. Much nicer than
                    hideous old tile! I would have preferred new clean tile, but it's still
                    an upgrade. Today I vacuumed the hallway and all four of our exhibit rooms.
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