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[midatlanticretro] Tech Weekend after action report (IBM 029)

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  • Jeffrey Brace
    From: Mike Loewen Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2012 11:54 PM ... Mike, Thanks for all your hard work ! It s nice to get more working machines in the MARCH exhibits !
    Message 1 of 9 , Jul 1, 2012
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      From: Mike Loewen
      Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2012 11:54 PM

      >At VCF 6.0 in 2009, I worked on the museum's IBM model 29 keypunch,
      >eventually
      >having to stop because of a broken arc suppression card. This weekend, I
      >was
      >finally able to put in some more time on the punch:

      Mike,

      Thanks for all your hard work ! It's nice to get more working machines in
      the MARCH exhibits !

      Jeff Brace
    • Mike
      Mike, Very nice job on the arc suppresion card! Clearly you put some thought and effort into that. Anyone know what rubber roller rejuvenator is composed of -
      Message 2 of 9 , Jul 2, 2012
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        Mike,

        Very nice job on the arc suppresion card! Clearly you put some thought and effort into that.

        Anyone know what rubber roller rejuvenator is composed of - the color and the mention of citris remind me of goof off... any chance that it is the same stuff. I have an old HP laserjet that is jamming requently and needs some attention.

        Regards,
        Mike Willegal

        --- In midatlanticretro@yahoogroups.com, Mike Loewen <mloewen@...> wrote:
        >
        >
        > At VCF 6.0 in 2009, I worked on the museum's IBM model 29 keypunch, eventually
        > having to stop because of a broken arc suppression card. This weekend, I was
        > finally able to put in some more time on the punch:
        >
        > 1. Cleaned (again) the cam-operated circuit breakers (switches) and used
        > a contact burnishing tool on them.
        >
        > 2. Replaced the broken arc suppression card with one I fabricated:
        >
        > http://sturgeon.css.psu.edu/~mloewen/Oldtech/Keypunch/NewArc1.jpg
        > http://sturgeon.css.psu.edu/~mloewen/Oldtech/Keypunch/NewArc2.jpg
        >
        > The one on the left is from my 029, the one on the right is the new card.
        >
        > 3. Adjusted the lever switch at the master card station (was stuck, ON,
        > causing the Clear function to continuously cycle).
        >
        > 4. Used Rubber Roller Rejuvenator on the rollers at the master station and eject
        > station (cards not being ejected all the way):
        >
        > http://www.techspray.com/product-info.php?pId=10&cId=13
        >
        > 5. Reconnected keyboard wires and tightened connectors for Numeric and Dup
        > keys (wires had fallen off).
        >
        > 6. Adjusted gap on cam-operated breaker CB4 (not making consistently, causing
        > Register cycle to repeat).
        >
        > 7. Replaced dried-out ribbon with a NIB ribbon, which was slightly less
        > dried-out. Printing is now legible, albeit faint.
        >
        > 9. Lubricated selected areas as noted in the tech manual.
        >
        > As it stands, the machine now punches (with good registration) and
        > prints. Several characters do not print correctly, but none of the print
        > wires appear to be broken, and it's likely that a dirty code plate is to
        > blame. The Duplicate function only partially works, and the pin sense
        > assembly should be removed, cleaned and oiled. There are also several
        > sticky keys on the keyboard, which do not always pop back up when
        > released. The keyboard should be disassembled, cleaned and oiled. The
        > least objectionable looking Backspace button was selected from storage,
        > but it had been broken and repaired in the past, and needs to be built up
        > before it will stay attached to the arm.
        >
        > At Evan's request, I brought home a spare keyboard from storage, and will
        > attempt to disassemble, clean and oil it.
        >
        > Note to Evan: it would be helpful to cover the keypunch (especially the
        > keyboard) when the room is not open to the public, to keep dust out of the
        > mechanism.
        >
        >
        > Mike Loewen mloewen@...
        > Old Technology http://sturgeon.css.psu.edu/~mloewen/Oldtech/
        >
      • Mike Loewen
        ... Thanks, Mike. I used the toner transfer method, with Pulsar s paper: http://www.pcbfx.com/main_site/pages/products/transfer_paper.html Instead of an iron,
        Message 3 of 9 , Jul 2, 2012
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          On Mon, 2 Jul 2012, Mike wrote:

          > Very nice job on the arc suppresion card! Clearly you put some thought and effort into that.

          Thanks, Mike. I used the toner transfer method, with Pulsar's paper:

          http://www.pcbfx.com/main_site/pages/products/transfer_paper.html

          Instead of an iron, I have a modified GBC H-220 pouch laminator:

          http://www.pcbfx.com/main_site/pages/start_here/laminator_info.html

          I built my own etching tank out of clear plexiglass, with an aquarium
          heater and an aquarium bubbler air pump. After etching, I tinned all the
          copper traces (except the edge connector) with solder. My only concern is
          the edge connector traces oxidizing over time, but I applied a layer of
          DeOxit and hoped for the best.

          > Anyone know what rubber roller rejuvenator is composed of - the color
          > and the mention of citris remind me of goof off... any chance that it is
          > the same stuff. I have an old HP laserjet that is jamming requently and
          > needs some attention.

          Goof Off is very oily to the touch, where the roller rejuvenator is
          not. I've also used it with great success on laser printer rollers. Do
          NOT use GC Electronics 10-8602 Belt & Drive Non Slip - it's too sticky.


          Mike Loewen mloewen@...
          Old Technology http://sturgeon.css.psu.edu/~mloewen/Oldtech/
        • Dave McGuire
          ... See: http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/421.html You can get it from here: http://sra-solder.com/product.php/6810/0/421_liquid_tin_125_ml (no affiliation,
          Message 4 of 9 , Jul 2, 2012
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            On 07/02/2012 02:07 PM, Mike Loewen wrote:
            > After etching, I tinned all the
            > copper traces (except the edge connector) with solder.

            See:

            http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/421.html

            You can get it from here:

            http://sra-solder.com/product.php/6810/0/421_liquid_tin_125_ml

            (no affiliation, satisfied customer)

            -Dave

            --
            Dave McGuire, AK4HZ
            New Kensington, PA
          • Mike Loewen
            ... Thanks for the recommendation. How s the shelf life? Mike Loewen mloewen@cpumagic.scol.pa.us Old Technology
            Message 5 of 9 , Jul 2, 2012
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              On Mon, 2 Jul 2012, Dave McGuire wrote:

              > On 07/02/2012 02:07 PM, Mike Loewen wrote:
              >> After etching, I tinned all the
              >> copper traces (except the edge connector) with solder.
              >
              > See:
              >
              > http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/421.html
              >
              > You can get it from here:
              >
              > http://sra-solder.com/product.php/6810/0/421_liquid_tin_125_ml

              Thanks for the recommendation. How's the shelf life?


              Mike Loewen mloewen@...
              Old Technology http://sturgeon.css.psu.edu/~mloewen/Oldtech/
            • Dave McGuire
              ... I don t know, but I ve had my current bottle for about a year and it s still ok. The only thing to keep in mind with this stuff is that the copper has to
              Message 6 of 9 , Jul 2, 2012
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                On 07/02/2012 08:00 PM, Mike Loewen wrote:
                >>> After etching, I tinned all the
                >>> copper traces (except the edge connector) with solder.
                >>
                >> See:
                >>
                >> http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/421.html
                >>
                >> You can get it from here:
                >>
                >> http://sra-solder.com/product.php/6810/0/421_liquid_tin_125_ml
                >
                > Thanks for the recommendation. How's the shelf life?

                I don't know, but I've had my current bottle for about a year and it's
                still ok.

                The only thing to keep in mind with this stuff is that the copper has
                to be very clean for it to be effective. No fingerprints, etc.

                We've talked about your coming out here for some hacking. Bring some
                boards with you and you're welcome to try it out.

                -Dave

                --
                Dave McGuire, AK4HZ
                New Kensington, PA
              • Mike
                I don t etch my own cards very often any more, but I ones I do, are also done with the laser toner method. I used to use glossy photo paper, but switched to
                Message 7 of 9 , Jul 3, 2012
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                  I don't etch my own cards very often any more, but I ones I do, are also done with the laser toner method. I used to use glossy photo paper, but switched to using a glossy page ripped out of a magazine, which works better for me. I try to find a page with a lot of white space. You don't want to know about how I keep the etchant warm. :-)

                  Actually I was thinking of Goo Gone, but that is also oily.

                  Regards,
                  Mike W.

                  --- In midatlanticretro@yahoogroups.com, Mike Loewen <mloewen@...> wrote:
                  >
                  > On Mon, 2 Jul 2012, Mike wrote:
                  >
                  > > Very nice job on the arc suppresion card! Clearly you put some thought and effort into that.
                  >
                  > Thanks, Mike. I used the toner transfer method, with Pulsar's paper:
                  >
                  > http://www.pcbfx.com/main_site/pages/products/transfer_paper.html
                  >
                  > Instead of an iron, I have a modified GBC H-220 pouch laminator:
                  >
                  > http://www.pcbfx.com/main_site/pages/start_here/laminator_info.html
                  >
                  > I built my own etching tank out of clear plexiglass, with an aquarium
                  > heater and an aquarium bubbler air pump. After etching, I tinned all the
                  > copper traces (except the edge connector) with solder. My only concern is
                  > the edge connector traces oxidizing over time, but I applied a layer of
                  > DeOxit and hoped for the best.
                  >
                  > > Anyone know what rubber roller rejuvenator is composed of - the color
                  > > and the mention of citris remind me of goof off... any chance that it is
                  > > the same stuff. I have an old HP laserjet that is jamming requently and
                  > > needs some attention.
                  >
                  > Goof Off is very oily to the touch, where the roller rejuvenator is
                  > not. I've also used it with great success on laser printer rollers. Do
                  > NOT use GC Electronics 10-8602 Belt & Drive Non Slip - it's too sticky.
                  >
                  >
                  > Mike Loewen mloewen@...
                  > Old Technology http://sturgeon.css.psu.edu/~mloewen/Oldtech/
                  >
                • s100doctor
                  ... I ve repaired many HP or HP-OEM ed printers. Look for the rubber paper pickup roller via a Web search, various fix your own printer companies sell them.
                  Message 8 of 9 , Jul 4, 2012
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                    --- In midatlanticretro@yahoogroups.com, "Mike" <mike@...> wrote:

                    > I have an old HP laserjet that is jamming frequently and needs some attention.

                    I've repaired many HP or HP-OEM'ed printers. Look for the rubber paper pickup roller via a Web search, various "fix your own printer" companies sell them. The rollers simply wear down with time and (with effort) can be replaced. There may be other parts and so there might be a "kit". None of this is from HP.

                    Herb Johnson
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