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Re: [midatlanticretro] Replacing disintegrated pads in keyboards - tip for cutting the pads

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  • Bill Degnan
    Yesterday I tested the keyboard. It works perfectly now. The action is good too, no need to trim the pad bd ... - tip for cutting the pads ... punch ...
    Message 1 of 3 , Jul 27, 2010
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      Yesterday I tested the keyboard. It works perfectly now. The action is
      good too, no need to trim the pad
      bd

      -------- Original Message --------
      > From: "Dan Roganti" <ragooman@...>
      > Sent: Monday, July 26, 2010 10:48 PME
      > To: midatlanticretro@yahoogroups.com
      > Subject: Re: [midatlanticretro] Replacing disintegrated pads in keyboards
      - tip for cutting the pads
      >
      > I would suggest using a fresh razor blade to slice off 1mm after you
      punch
      > out the pads. That be another painstaking task but it can help.
      >
      > I'll have to pickup a Stanley Grommet kit too.
      >
      > =Dan
      >
      >
      > On Sun, Jul 25, 2010 at 8:54 PM, B Degnan <billdeg@...> wrote:
      >
      > > I am working to restore a Visual Technologies 1050 computer. The
      > > keyboard has the same problem as others have reported for their SOL
      20's
      > > and TRS 80 model II's.
      > >
      > > Taking Mike's advice I bought a strip of the Woodland Scenics 5mm
      foam.
      > > I also bought a Stanley Grommet Kit of 1/2" (12mm) to make the pads.
      > > The punch that comes with the grommet kit is perfect for making
      > > consistent holes in 5mm foam. It's a relatively cheap kit too, and
      easy
      > > to do.
      > >
      > > After disassembling the keyboard
      > >
      > > 1. Remove all of the disintegrated pads, clean out the key holes
      > > 2. Clean off and set aside the metalic pads
      > > 3. Punch 92 or so pads from the Woodland Scenics foam sheet using the
      > > 1/2" (12mm) Stanley Grommet Kit. I used a hammer to the back of the
      punch.
      > > 4. Use my fingers to hold up three or four keys
      > > 5. Apply rubber cement to the bottom of a pad and stick the pad in
      one
      > > of the raised keyholes for each of the raised keys.
      > > 6. Repeat step 5 until you have about 20 or so new keypads in place.
      > > This gives the rubber cement of first few a chance to dry
      > > 7. Apply rubber cement to the top of the new pads in the order they
      > > were installed, and stick a metallic pad on top so that the metallic
      > > surface is facing up. I chose the best of the pads for most-often
      used
      > > keys.
      > > 8. Repeat from step #4 until all of the keys have been replaced.
      > >
      > > This is slow methodical work. I totally agree with the choice of
      > > Woodland Scenics foam. I tried an alternative but it did not work as
      > > well and I had to start over.
      > >
      > > In the case of the Visual 1050 I noticed that the keyboard action is
      > > much stiffer than before, as there is a lot less space between the key
      > > pads and the keyboard PCB that makes the connection and send the key
      > > stroke to the computer/display. If there was such a thing as 4mm foam
      > > I'd get that instead, but none of the new pads is taller than the
      > > keyboard hole, it's just a little tight.
      > >
      > > Here are some pictures
      > > http://vintagecomputer.net/visualtechnology/1050/
      > >
      > > Bill
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > ------------------------------------
      > >
      > > Yahoo! Groups Links
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
    • Bill Degnan
      Dan, Squeeze the foam with your fingers. Does it come back quickly into shape? It needs to be kind of rigid. Unless the keys are very small 3mm is probably
      Message 2 of 3 , Aug 4 10:15 AM
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        Dan,

        Squeeze the foam with your fingers. Does it come back quickly into shape?
        It needs to be kind of rigid. Unless the keys are very small 3mm is
        probably too short. That foam Mike suggested (don't have the name here)
        worked perfectly and cut well too. It was $3.49 for a sheet that will do 5
        keyboards.

        My point is that it's a lot of work to do the pads, be sure you have the
        good stuff.


        Bill Degnan

        -------- Original Message --------
        > From: "Dan Roganti" <ragooman@...>
        > Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2010 1:12 PM
        > To: midatlanticretro@yahoogroups.com
        > Subject: Re: [midatlanticretro] Replacing disintegrated pads in keyboards
        - tip for cutting the pads
        >
        > I just noticed something here. Every time we order new circuit cards
        here,
        > they're packed in static bags and also have a lining of static foam
        inside.
        > These are 3mm , and might also work.
        > I haven't realized it before that it could be useful for this. I'm not
        sure
        > yet if 3mm is too thin. There are little 5" x 6" sheets, I only have a
        few
        > since I started saving these. But if anybody wants to try it, I'll send
        one.
        >
        > =Dan
        >
        >
        > On Sun, Jul 25, 2010 at 8:54 PM, B Degnan <billdeg@...> wrote:
        >
        > > I am working to restore a Visual Technologies 1050 computer. The
        > > keyboard has the same problem as others have reported for their SOL
        20's
        > > and TRS 80 model II's.
        > >
        > >
      • Dan Roganti
        I took a closer look at this, this is not what you want. It s that new bubble foam, with the micro bubbles. They pop easily and lose the effect. I already have
        Message 3 of 3 , Aug 4 12:14 PM
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          I took a closer look at this, this is not what you want. It's that new bubble foam, with the micro bubbles. They pop easily and lose the effect.

          I already have the Woodland Scenics track foam that Mike showed us before. But know I can slice it down to 4mm if I have to.

          =Dan

          On Wed, Aug 4, 2010 at 1:15 PM, Bill Degnan <billdeg@...> wrote:
          Dan,

          Squeeze the foam with your fingers.  Does it come back quickly into shape?
          It needs to be kind of rigid.  Unless the keys are very small 3mm is
          probably too short.  That foam Mike suggested (don't have the name here)
          worked perfectly and cut well too.  It was $3.49 for a sheet that will do 5
          keyboards.

          My point is that it's a lot of work to do the pads, be sure you have the
          good stuff.


          Bill Degnan

          -------- Original Message --------
          > From: "Dan Roganti" <ragooman@...>
          > Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2010 1:12 PM
          > To: midatlanticretro@yahoogroups.com
          > Subject: Re: [midatlanticretro] Replacing disintegrated pads in keyboards
          -  tip for cutting the pads
          >
          > I just noticed something here. Every time we order new circuit cards
          here,
          > they're packed in static bags and also have a lining of static foam
          inside.
          > These are 3mm , and might also work.
          > I haven't realized it before that it could be useful for this. I'm not
          sure
          > yet if 3mm is too thin. There are little 5" x 6" sheets, I only have a
          few
          > since I started saving these. But if anybody wants to try it, I'll send
          one.
          >
          > =Dan
          >
          >
          > On Sun, Jul 25, 2010 at 8:54 PM, B Degnan <billdeg@...> wrote:
          >
          > > I am working to restore a Visual Technologies 1050 computer.  The
          > > keyboard has the same problem as others have reported for their SOL
          20's
          > > and TRS 80 model II's.
          > >
          > >




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