5921Re: [midatlanticretro] Important museum update
- Aug 5, 2007
> Yesterday, Joe and I spent several hours scraping FOUR layers of paint off theWuss. Let me know whenyou have to deal with paint that comes in eight
> metal doorframes in the entrance area to our future museum rooms.
> We considered using a belt sander (while we'd wear respirators), and/or using anThe best way to remove paint, in my opinion, is still an old triangle
> industrial solvent of some kind, but I spoke with Fred yesterday and again today,
> and he said "no way" to those ideas. He assures me that new paint designed to
> adhere to metal, i.e. Rustoleum, while work a lot better than I expect. And he says
> that choosing the right color, such as dark green or blue, will cover up most of the
> bumpy areas where old paint is still underneath.
shaped chipper (other shapes are available), or the "green"
environmentally freindly goops. Stay away from the nasty petrochemical
things of old - they work, but leave such a mess, and you slowly die..
When you have a lot of time (a couple of days) and large flat expanses
(like on a door), the green goop is pretty great.
I am currently (always?) restoring a house from 1776, with my cousin
(half owner of the house) being a classcially trained archiologist
often looking over my shoulder, so I get to do a LOT of very proper
A standard chipper, with a *light* touch, can do wonders. Make sure
the blades are SHARP. Yes, there will be some damage to the wood, but
nothing a little steam or filler can not fix. And with metal? No big
deal, unless you are Hercules. When you strip, you MUST strip it all.
Modern paints WILL NOT hide half stripped areas. Nothing will. If you
chip, be prepared to chip it ALL, or be skilled at filling and sanding
the transition zone, so the differences in the paint will be hidden.
Dark colors are better than light colors for hiding flaws, but better
yet is the lustre of the paint - the flatter the paint is, the more
sins are hidden. Unfortuneately, flat paints tend to look bad on
moulding and doorframes, so pick something middle of the road -
I am still a fan (and user) of oil paints (like Rustoleum), but unless
you realy know what you are doing, stick to latex. Good latex, as in
Baer or Benjamin Moore. WIth paint, you get what you pay for. And if
you must ue oils, used a Benjamin Moore oil. A few places will still
color match oils.
The choice is yours when it comes to painting. If you do a quick job,
you will need to do a quick repaint later. Do a very careful complete
job, and you can ignore it for years.
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