RE: [MedievalSawdust] Re: Warping
- I've not done any steam bending. I'll hit Google, of course, but does anyone know of a good on-line resource on the topic that they like?Oh, and did they do steam bending in the middle ages? (My apprentices will ask.)Will
From: email@example.com [mailto:firstname.lastname@example.org] On Behalf Of Eric
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2008 1:00 PM
Subject: [MedievalSawdust] Re: Warping
Although I haven't had the need to try this myself, my first thought
is to steam bend it back to straight. Because of the bow, you'll
need a box or tube that is about 7"-8" across. And because of the
thickness you'll need to steam the beam for a decent amount of
time. And perhaps, most importantly, since this is not going into a
structure that will hold it's shape while it dries, you'll need to
let it set in it's straightening jig for at least a couple of weeks,
steam bent items that are let free to soon will go back to their
natural form over time.
Just a thought, considering the desirability of the matched wood,
This is how I would approach the problem.
Ashgrove, Barony of Angels, Caid
--- In medievalsawdust@ yahoogroups. com, "McNutt Jr, William R"
> I'm working on a portable 4 poster bed after the Saffron Waldenbed
>Hmm. Greydragon's giving me a 405 forbidden.
>made the posts out of 3"x3" north American red
> Anyway . . . I've
> I got it greenfrom the sawyer and air dried it for 2 years. One
> posts haswarped fairly badly. Laid on a flat surface, the center
> bowed upalmost three inches. My normal response to this would be
> getmore wood, but all of this was cut from the same tree, and so
>matching grain, color, and texture, and I'm reluctant to bring in a
>stranger if I can avoid it.
>the bow from a timber like this?
> Has anyone had any luck removing
> Master William
- Yes, "steam it", as you would if you were a traditional boatbuilder. You'll need to do some research to find out how to construct a cheap "steamer"; and some more to discover how long you need to steam it for; and then gather 3 or 4 friends, and some welders gloves or asbestos gloves, a strongbakc, and some large clamps.
When you've steamed your timber for the right amount of time forit's type and dimensions, you only have minutes to get it out of the steamer, onto your form - in your case a strongback, and get it clamped flat. You'll have no time to spare, becasue every second it's out of the steam it will be cooling rapidly and losing flexibility as it cools.
I've never worked in a boatyard with North American Red Oak, so I can't give you any poiinters to how long you may have to steam it. My best recommendation would be to contact a traditional Boatbuilder in the US who will be steaming such timber quite often - and ask his advice.
dwelling in "old" Jersey.
--- On Mon, 5/5/08, McNutt Jr, William R <mcnutt@...> wrote:
From: McNutt Jr, William R <mcnutt@...>
Subject: [MedievalSawdust] Warping
Date: Monday, 5 May, 2008, 3:00 PM
I'm working on a portable 4 poster bed after the Saffron Walden bed (http://www.greydrag on.org/furniture /beds/saffronwal den/index. html) Hmm. Greydragon's giving me a 405 forbidden.
Anyway . . . I've made the posts out of 3"x3" north American red oak. I got it green from the sawyer and air dried it for 2 years. One of the posts has warped fairly badly. Laid on a flat surface, the center has bowed up almost three inches. My normal response to this would be to go get more wood, but all of this was cut from the same tree, and so has matching grain, color, and texture, and I'm reluctant to bring in a stranger if I can avoid it.
Has anyone had any luck removing the bow from a timber like this?
Thor's Mountain, Meridies