Re: [MedievalSawdust] My first project
- On 8/12/2007 12:55, Avitoria wrote:
> I'm looking to spiff up my encampment a bit, and decide that a storageI'll second the recommendation of a six-board chest, very simple, one
> chest would be a good place to start. Could anyone recommend a good
> book or pattern to follow?
board for each side. :)
This is a pretty good link:
I highly recommend extending the sides down to make legs, even if
they're only 2" long. It will make the box sit more evenly on the ground
and will keep the bottom from being stressed.
3/4" wood is very strong in small to mid-sized pieces (even big ones if
designed properly), and will take a lot of abuse, whether it's pine or
plywood. Plywood has a lot of advantages, but the edges don't look
period. Personally, I've found if you use decent quality plywood and
stain it, few people notice. If you really care, you can cover the edges
with veneer tape, or you can "band" the edges with thin strips of solid
wood. Even better *paint* it. Most period pieces I've seen had been
painted originally. Paint will definitely hide the plywood edges enough
to be noticeable only at very close distance.
Pine is easy to find, but *good* pine is not. Most of the stuff in the
box stores warps like the dickens, mostly from not being dried/stored
properly. If you really want to use solid wood, I suggest finding a
store that deals in specialty lumber and/or lumber for the cabinetry trade.
> Please keep in mind...Biggest things to keep in mind:
> (1) i am new to woodworking,
Glue may not always be period, but it will provide a LOT of strength.
Properly glued pieces will break through the wood before the glue bond
fails. Good old "white" carpenter's glue is usually the best, and the
easiest to work with. Smooth the pieces so the edges fit as flush as
possible, spread glue, clamp together tightly, then screw together.
When using screws, never go into the end grain, always into the face
or side of the board.
Michael J Sheldon