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Re: Recent project....

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  • Ralph Lindberg
    Bear... Please, Please, PLEASE, tell me you are -NOT- hollowing with the roughing gouge. They are not made for the forces you would get in a catch. The small
    Message 1 of 17 , Nov 7, 2006
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      Bear...

      Please, Please, PLEASE, tell me you are -NOT- hollowing with the
      roughing gouge.

      They are not made for the forces you would get in a catch. The small
      diameter metal shank (back at the handle) would snap and you probably
      would get hurt.

      If you have a shallow wallet (and which of us don't), you could get a
      bowl chisel set from Benjamin's Best (Penn State Industries and Long
      Island woodworking for two sources). Two bowl gouges and two scrapers
      are $70. IE, about the cost of a quality gouge.
      http://www.pennstateind.com/store/lcbt4.html

      Of course, roughing the goblet, between centers, is what a roughing
      gouge is made for

      TTFN
      Ralg
      AnTir
    • Barekr Silfri
      Bear... Please, Please, PLEASE, tell me you are -NOT- hollowing with the roughing gouge. no I only used it to clean up the edges inside as my scraper just
      Message 2 of 17 , Nov 7, 2006
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        Bear...

        Please, Please, PLEASE, tell me you are -NOT- hollowing with the
        roughing gouge.

         

        no I only used it to clean up the edges inside as my scraper just shredded the inside of the cup and left splinters. I used one corner of the roughing gouge to shave a final skin off the cup. when I did this I had only a few minutes of sanding while the one I did with the scraper I sanded the thing for about 15-20 minutes and still had the splinters coming off.

         

      • leaking pen
        oooo, nice. i very much like. ... -- That which yields isn t always weak.
        Message 3 of 17 , Nov 7, 2006
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          oooo, nice. i very much like.

          On 11/5/06, barekrsilfri <Barekr@...> wrote:
          > Just finished the cups I was working on check them out here:
          > http://www.dropshots.com/day.php?
          > userid=149213&cdate=20061104&ctime=141436
          >
          > these were a commission job, I had a hell of a time turning them
          > because the place I used to laminate the maple and cherry together
          > screwed it up and the peices weren't all glued. I had some seperation
          > in the laminations. I actually had to turn 6 mugs to get 3.
          >
          > after I turned them on my lathe I hand carved the names and knotwork
          >
          > *Grunt* make sawdust, good!
          >
          > Bear
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >


          --
          That which yields isn't always weak.
        • Ralph Lindberg
          Bear, that s odd I wonder why the splintering happened, I can t say I ve seen it on an end-grain hollowing. Unless it was right along the glue line (???) It
          Message 4 of 17 , Nov 7, 2006
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            Bear, that's odd I wonder why the splintering happened, I can't say
            I've seen it on an end-grain hollowing. Unless it was right along the
            glue line (???)

            It sounds like you used the roughing gouge in a shearing cut. If your
            bowl gouge is ground in an Irish/Finger-nail gring you should be able
            to make a similar cut with your bowl gouge.

            Of course your scraper should have worked as a shear cut, and left a
            nice finish. As opposed to needing the 80 grit "gouge" (is sand-paper)

            TTFN
            Ralg
            AnTir
          • Barekr Silfri
            yeah my bowl gouge is kinda rounded along the bottom, my roughing gouge makes a more U-shape chisel and I used the top corner of the U. my scraper did awesome
            Message 5 of 17 , Nov 7, 2006
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               yeah my bowl gouge is kinda rounded along the bottom, my roughing gouge makes a more U-shape chisel and I used the top corner of the U. my scraper did awesome on the end grain i.e. the bottom of the cups, but when I tried to shave the sides smooth it shredded the sides rather than carving it away. Before you ask I did sharpen the scraper a few times as I thought that was my problem but it didn't change the outcome.

               

              Bear_._,___

            • Chuck Phillips
              Bear; The only way I can see a scraper ripping out long grain is if you take a too-heavy cut with the edge square on. Have you tried holding the edge at an
              Message 6 of 17 , Nov 7, 2006
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                Bear;

                 

                The only way I can see a scraper ripping out long grain is if you take a too-heavy cut with the edge square on.  Have you tried holding the edge at an angle to the axis of the work to achieve a shearing cut?  Done properly, this will produce fine wispy shavings and a near-flawless surface. There’s a lot of good demonstration videos available from Robert Sorby at http://www.robert-sorby.co.uk/movie-clips.htm.

                 

                Charles Joiner

                Having a bowl phase in Caid

                 


                From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com [mailto: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Barekr Silfri
                Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 8:05 PM
                To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                Subject: RE: [MedievalSawdust] Re: Recent project....

                 

                 yeah my bowl gouge is kinda rounded along the bottom, my roughing gouge makes a more U-shape chisel and I used the top corner of the U. my scraper did awesome on the end grain i.e. the bottom of the cups, but when I tried to shave the sides smooth it shredded the sides rather than carving it away. Before you ask I did sharpen the scraper a few times as I thought that was my problem but it didn't change the outcome.

                 

                Bear_._,___

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