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RE: [MedievalSawdust] Re: Recent project....

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  • Barekr Silfri
    The Blanks were glued up at a local wood retailer who deals in mostly hardwoods and he normally does really good work and has custom jobs from some of the
    Message 1 of 17 , Nov 6, 2006
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      The Blanks were glued up at a local wood retailer who deals in mostly hardwoods and he normally does really good work and has custom jobs from some of the local car companies. He has hired a guy in the last year who he has do most of the tedious stuff. Let it be said I don't think he's all that bright when it comes to doing stuff like this since the owner who I paid to do the glue up told him the first time it was for turning blanks. He then proceeded to squiggle a line of carpenters glue along the board and then clamped them together. The second time I was assured that he spread the glue but I still found some separation between the maple and cherry.

      I actually have to go down there tomorrow and buy some hardwood dowelling for another project. I intend on being civil but at the same time let him know he has lost any glue up jobs I may have sent his way.

      As to the question of getting down unto the cups, I use a long bowl gouge and a small diameter roughing gouge. I'd take a pick but my workshop is about 40 minutes away and I've already made my weekly trip. Man I need to scratch some cash together to buy a house (read I hate living in this trailer) My tools are all at a friends place.

      well I think I've rambled long enough...

       

      Bear

       



    • Ralph Lindberg
      Bear... Please, Please, PLEASE, tell me you are -NOT- hollowing with the roughing gouge. They are not made for the forces you would get in a catch. The small
      Message 2 of 17 , Nov 7, 2006
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        Bear...

        Please, Please, PLEASE, tell me you are -NOT- hollowing with the
        roughing gouge.

        They are not made for the forces you would get in a catch. The small
        diameter metal shank (back at the handle) would snap and you probably
        would get hurt.

        If you have a shallow wallet (and which of us don't), you could get a
        bowl chisel set from Benjamin's Best (Penn State Industries and Long
        Island woodworking for two sources). Two bowl gouges and two scrapers
        are $70. IE, about the cost of a quality gouge.
        http://www.pennstateind.com/store/lcbt4.html

        Of course, roughing the goblet, between centers, is what a roughing
        gouge is made for

        TTFN
        Ralg
        AnTir
      • Barekr Silfri
        Bear... Please, Please, PLEASE, tell me you are -NOT- hollowing with the roughing gouge. no I only used it to clean up the edges inside as my scraper just
        Message 3 of 17 , Nov 7, 2006
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          Bear...

          Please, Please, PLEASE, tell me you are -NOT- hollowing with the
          roughing gouge.

           

          no I only used it to clean up the edges inside as my scraper just shredded the inside of the cup and left splinters. I used one corner of the roughing gouge to shave a final skin off the cup. when I did this I had only a few minutes of sanding while the one I did with the scraper I sanded the thing for about 15-20 minutes and still had the splinters coming off.

           

        • leaking pen
          oooo, nice. i very much like. ... -- That which yields isn t always weak.
          Message 4 of 17 , Nov 7, 2006
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            oooo, nice. i very much like.

            On 11/5/06, barekrsilfri <Barekr@...> wrote:
            > Just finished the cups I was working on check them out here:
            > http://www.dropshots.com/day.php?
            > userid=149213&cdate=20061104&ctime=141436
            >
            > these were a commission job, I had a hell of a time turning them
            > because the place I used to laminate the maple and cherry together
            > screwed it up and the peices weren't all glued. I had some seperation
            > in the laminations. I actually had to turn 6 mugs to get 3.
            >
            > after I turned them on my lathe I hand carved the names and knotwork
            >
            > *Grunt* make sawdust, good!
            >
            > Bear
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >


            --
            That which yields isn't always weak.
          • Ralph Lindberg
            Bear, that s odd I wonder why the splintering happened, I can t say I ve seen it on an end-grain hollowing. Unless it was right along the glue line (???) It
            Message 5 of 17 , Nov 7, 2006
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              Bear, that's odd I wonder why the splintering happened, I can't say
              I've seen it on an end-grain hollowing. Unless it was right along the
              glue line (???)

              It sounds like you used the roughing gouge in a shearing cut. If your
              bowl gouge is ground in an Irish/Finger-nail gring you should be able
              to make a similar cut with your bowl gouge.

              Of course your scraper should have worked as a shear cut, and left a
              nice finish. As opposed to needing the 80 grit "gouge" (is sand-paper)

              TTFN
              Ralg
              AnTir
            • Barekr Silfri
              yeah my bowl gouge is kinda rounded along the bottom, my roughing gouge makes a more U-shape chisel and I used the top corner of the U. my scraper did awesome
              Message 6 of 17 , Nov 7, 2006
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                 yeah my bowl gouge is kinda rounded along the bottom, my roughing gouge makes a more U-shape chisel and I used the top corner of the U. my scraper did awesome on the end grain i.e. the bottom of the cups, but when I tried to shave the sides smooth it shredded the sides rather than carving it away. Before you ask I did sharpen the scraper a few times as I thought that was my problem but it didn't change the outcome.

                 

                Bear_._,___

              • Chuck Phillips
                Bear; The only way I can see a scraper ripping out long grain is if you take a too-heavy cut with the edge square on. Have you tried holding the edge at an
                Message 7 of 17 , Nov 7, 2006
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                  Bear;

                   

                  The only way I can see a scraper ripping out long grain is if you take a too-heavy cut with the edge square on.  Have you tried holding the edge at an angle to the axis of the work to achieve a shearing cut?  Done properly, this will produce fine wispy shavings and a near-flawless surface. There’s a lot of good demonstration videos available from Robert Sorby at http://www.robert-sorby.co.uk/movie-clips.htm.

                   

                  Charles Joiner

                  Having a bowl phase in Caid

                   


                  From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com [mailto: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Barekr Silfri
                  Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 8:05 PM
                  To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                  Subject: RE: [MedievalSawdust] Re: Recent project....

                   

                   yeah my bowl gouge is kinda rounded along the bottom, my roughing gouge makes a more U-shape chisel and I used the top corner of the U. my scraper did awesome on the end grain i.e. the bottom of the cups, but when I tried to shave the sides smooth it shredded the sides rather than carving it away. Before you ask I did sharpen the scraper a few times as I thought that was my problem but it didn't change the outcome.

                   

                  Bear_._,___

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