Re: [medievalsawdust] Re: 'sawhorse' trestle tables
- Hello Colin,
More thoughts on period style trestle tables...
>Basically what you describe is a very traditional way of making 'trestleI agree.
>tables.' I've made them that way myself and it is definitely the best. I
>think the vertically-wedged tenon is the strongest and best knockdown joint
>However... the question is how to use that joint on the 'sawhorse' trestlesI've been calling the "sawhorse trestle" a period tressle and the commonly
>that we were originally discussing. (Apparently there is a terminology
>problem; what we call a 'trestle table' does not use 'sawhorse trestles.' )
trestle a standard trestle. I made a standard trestle out of 4/4 hickory
and use it
as a work table. It is heavy and very sturdy. If there is a better name
for the two
types of trestle tables, I'd like to know so I can call it by it's proper
>The problem I'm having with my tripod trestles isn't vertical wobbling,I've seen drawings and illuminations with the horizontal stretcher but
>it's side-to-side wobbling. Using a vertical wedge instead of a horizontal
>pin might improve that a little; but I suspect a big part of my problem is
>that the front pieces are only 1/2" thick, which means there isn't much
>bearing surface between the tenon and the mortise. I'd like to rotate the
>top stretcher, so it is flat/horizontal (which is the way the medieval ones
>seem to have been done), but then there's no room for knockdown joinery.
>(Maybe I need to post a photo showing the detail of this joint?)
see a way to make it break down and be sturdy. Maybe if the legs had a
and went into a mortise in the horizontal stretcher, but no way to secure it
with a pin.
>What I think I need to do is make the front as an A-shape (two legs with aFor the front leg, I have tried using a triangle with the legs going up the
>horizontal stretcher) out of 6/4 stock so there is more depth to the
>mortise, and maybe use 6/4 for the top stretcher as well so I can put wider
>shoulders on the tenon. But all this drives the cost way up, and the
>weight, too. I don't think I'd sell many of them.
and meeting at the top. I wasn't using a mortis/tenon joint but it would
worked well. Now I'm cutting a 15 degree angle on both parts of the leg for
a 30 degree spread. I don't make the top a point. I cut it back so the top
flat and about 2 " wide. I've used 30 degrees a few times and it seems
Stefan von Kiel
Dwarven Axe Armoury
----Original Message Follows----
From: Tim Bray <tbray@...>
Subject: Re: [medievalsawdust] Re: 'sawhorse' trestle tables
Date: Tue, 13 May 2003 13:09:53 -0700
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