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saw sharpening file

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  • Conal O'hAirt Jim Hart
    http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32951&cat=1,43072,43089 anyone ever use this? Could it be used to sharpen non-japanese saws? Or do you have a
    Message 1 of 4 , Feb 3 5:59 PM
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      http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32951&cat=1,43072,43089

      anyone ever use this? Could it be used to
      sharpen non-japanese saws?

      Or do you have a sourde for the correct file?

      Baron Conal O'hAirt / Jim Hart

      Aude Aliquid Dignum
      ' Dare Something Worthy '

      __________________________________________________
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      Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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    • Bruce S. R. Lee
      The Lee Valley files are the correct files for re-sharpening. I ve never had to sharpen a Japanese saw, but those files are SHARP - they are very like a knife
      Message 2 of 4 , Feb 4 6:01 AM
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        The Lee Valley files are the correct files for re-sharpening. I've
        never had to sharpen a Japanese saw, but those files are SHARP - they
        are very like a knife blade, so watch where your fingers or other
        body parts are. The factories use CNC controlled diamond coated
        wheels to cut the original teeth in all but the most expensive, hand
        made Japanese saws - most people just buy the replacement blades &
        throw the old one away. I suspect that those files would be excellent
        for lock making tho'.

        For sharpening a 'Western' saw, you need a triangular file (3 x 60
        degrees) & a flat file. You remove the 'set' in the teeth - possibly
        with a hammer & steel block, file the tops down level using the flat
        file, then re-cut the teeth with the triangular file (you need a very
        fine cut file) then re-set the teeth with one of those nifty plier
        gadgets. My Grandfather had all the gear, and occasionally sharpened
        his own saws, but eventually decided it was easier to send a bunch
        off to a 'saw doctor' when he had enough blunt saws to make it
        worthwhile & then pick them up at the shop a week or two later.

        Many modern saws are designed to be unsharpenable - they have
        'impulse hardened' teeth, which means the teeth are near glass hard
        from being put thru' some sort of induction furnace. You would have
        to grind away all of the hardened zone - the blue bit - and cut new
        teeth from scratch, then re-harden the edge of the blade with
        something like Oxy-Acetylene. When I wear out some of my cheapies I
        was thinking of making knives or flat springs out of the left over blade stock.

        regards
        Brusi of Orkney

        At 12:59 PM 4/02/2006, you wrote:
        ><http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32951&cat=1,43072,43089>http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32951&cat=1,43072,43089
        >
        >anyone ever use this? Could it be used to
        >sharpen non-japanese saws?
        >
        >Or do you have a sourde for the correct file?
        >
        >Baron Conal O'hAirt / Jim Hart
        >
        > Aude Aliquid Dignum
        > ' Dare Something Worthy '
      • Conal O'hAirt Jim Hart
        the acutal goal is to make a saw blade from .....something appropriate.... and to be able to sharpen some of the I have. ... Baron Conal O hAirt / Jim Hart
        Message 3 of 4 , Feb 5 3:54 AM
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          the acutal goal is to make a saw blade
          from .....something appropriate....

          and to be able to sharpen some of the
          I have.

          --- "Bruce S. R. Lee" <bsrlee2@...> wrote:

          > The Lee Valley files are the correct files for
          > re-sharpening. I've
          > never had to sharpen a Japanese saw, but those files
          > are SHARP - they
          > are very like a knife blade, so watch where your
          > fingers or other
          > body parts are. The factories use CNC controlled
          > diamond coated
          > wheels to cut the original teeth in all but the most
          > expensive, hand
          > made Japanese saws - most people just buy the
          > replacement blades &
          > throw the old one away. I suspect that those files
          > would be excellent
          > for lock making tho'.
          >
          > For sharpening a 'Western' saw, you need a
          > triangular file (3 x 60
          > degrees) & a flat file. You remove the 'set' in the
          > teeth - possibly
          > with a hammer & steel block, file the tops down
          > level using the flat
          > file, then re-cut the teeth with the triangular file
          > (you need a very
          > fine cut file) then re-set the teeth with one of
          > those nifty plier
          > gadgets. My Grandfather had all the gear, and
          > occasionally sharpened
          > his own saws, but eventually decided it was easier
          > to send a bunch
          > off to a 'saw doctor' when he had enough blunt saws
          > to make it
          > worthwhile & then pick them up at the shop a week or
          > two later.
          >
          > Many modern saws are designed to be unsharpenable -
          > they have
          > 'impulse hardened' teeth, which means the teeth are
          > near glass hard
          > from being put thru' some sort of induction furnace.
          > You would have
          > to grind away all of the hardened zone - the blue
          > bit - and cut new
          > teeth from scratch, then re-harden the edge of the
          > blade with
          > something like Oxy-Acetylene. When I wear out some
          > of my cheapies I
          > was thinking of making knives or flat springs out of
          > the left over blade stock.
          >
          > regards
          > Brusi of Orkney
          >
          > At 12:59 PM 4/02/2006, you wrote:
          >
          ><http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32951&cat=1,43072,43089>http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32951&cat=1,43072,43089
          > >
          > >anyone ever use this? Could it be used to
          > >sharpen non-japanese saws?
          > >
          > >Or do you have a sourde for the correct file?
          > >
          > >Baron Conal O'hAirt / Jim Hart
          > >
          > > Aude Aliquid Dignum
          > > ' Dare Something Worthy '
          >
          >
          >


          Baron Conal O'hAirt / Jim Hart

          Aude Aliquid Dignum
          ' Dare Something Worthy '

          __________________________________________________
          Do You Yahoo!?
          Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
          http://mail.yahoo.com
        • Hall, Hayward
          Triagular saw-files (tapered files) come in various sizes depending on the teeth-per-inch of the saw you re sharpeing (or butchering depending on you level of
          Message 4 of 4 , Feb 6 10:35 AM
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            Triagular saw-files (tapered files) come in various sizes depending on the teeth-per-inch of the saw you're sharpeing (or butchering depending on you level of skill).  These are specially designed so they leave a rounded gullet (the low part inbetween the teeth) which is less likely to crack or break than a sharp one, as opposed to a 3 cornered file which has sharp edges.
             
            A good reference to saw sharpening is here http://www.vintagesaws.com/library/primer/sharp.html (but I wouldnt recommened their overpriced 'sharpening kit' which comes with a saw to practice on).
             
            So, in answer to the orginal question, no, japanese-saw files would not be a good choice for sharpening what we would consider a standard saw.
             
            Tapered file kits are available online fairly cheap, and they are also available in most hardware stores.
             
            Guillaume


            From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Conal O'hAirt Jim Hart
            Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 5:54 AM
            To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
            Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] saw sharpening file

            the acutal goal is to make a saw blade
            from .....something appropriate....

            and to be able to sharpen some of the
            I have.

            --- "Bruce S. R. Lee" <bsrlee2@...> wrote:

            > The Lee Valley files are the correct files for
            >
            re-sharpening. I've
            > never had to sharpen a Japanese saw, but those
            files
            > are SHARP - they
            > are very like a knife blade, so watch
            where your
            > fingers or other
            > body parts are. The factories use
            CNC controlled
            > diamond coated
            > wheels to cut the original teeth
            in all but the most
            > expensive, hand
            > made Japanese saws - most
            people just buy the
            > replacement blades &
            > throw the old one
            away. I suspect that those files
            > would be excellent
            > for lock
            making tho'.
            >
            > For sharpening a 'Western' saw, you need a
            >
            triangular file (3 x 60
            > degrees) & a flat file. You remove the
            'set' in the
            > teeth - possibly
            > with a hammer & steel block,
            file the tops down
            > level using the flat
            > file, then re-cut the
            teeth with the triangular file
            > (you need a very
            > fine cut file)
            then re-set the teeth with one of
            > those nifty plier
            > gadgets. My
            Grandfather had all the gear, and
            > occasionally sharpened
            > his
            own saws, but eventually decided it was easier
            > to send a bunch
            >
            off to a 'saw doctor' when he had enough blunt saws
            > to make it
            >
            worthwhile & then pick them up at the shop a week or
            > two
            later.
            >
            > Many modern saws are designed to be unsharpenable
            -
            > they have
            > 'impulse hardened' teeth, which means the teeth
            are
            > near glass hard
            > from being put thru' some sort of induction
            furnace.
            > You would have
            > to grind away all  of the hardened
            zone - the blue
            > bit - and cut new
            > teeth from scratch, then
            re-harden the edge of the
            > blade with
            > something like
            Oxy-Acetylene. When I wear out some
            > of my cheapies I
            > was
            thinking of making knives or flat springs out of
            > the left over blade
            stock.
            >
            > regards
            > Brusi of Orkney
            >
            > At
            12:59 PM 4/02/2006, you wrote:
            >
            ><
            href="http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32951&cat=1,43072,43089">http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32951&cat=1,43072,43089>http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32951&cat=1,43072,43089
            > >
            > >anyone ever use this?  Could it be used to
            > >sharpen non-japanese saws?
            > >
            > >Or do you have a sourde
            for the correct file?
            > >
            > >Baron Conal O'hAirt / Jim
            Hart
            > >
            > >    Aude Aliquid Dignum
            > >      ' Dare Something Worthy '
            >
            >
            >


            Baron Conal O'hAirt / Jim Hart

               Aude Aliquid Dignum
                 ' Dare Something Worthy '

            __________________________________________________
            Do You Yahoo!?
            Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
            http://mail.yahoo.com
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