Re: [medievalsawdust] Wood finishes
- Hey that's two of us trying this out! The latest Lee Valley catalog had a
nice "insert" article regarding ammonia aging/colouring of different
hardwoods (all with good tannin) to get the "been in the barn" look. I've
been waiting 'til the weather turns a bit nicer before I started work on
this. Despite the various dangers of this technique, it is supposed to get
some very deep absorption ranging from 1/2" to 2" on end grain. There are
warnings about putting the newly "ammonia'd" item near other hardwoods due
to out gassing. As for being period, we're just accelerating a naturally
occurring process that's been around as long as humans have domesticated
THL Sgt. Iain Ruadh
Pentamere Region, Midrealm
"His troops would follow him anywhere ...
but only out of curiosity!"
Hey Iain.. just picked up a cool book called "In the Craftsman Style" (by the editors of 'Fine Woodworking') [ISBN - 1561583987). Besides having some spiffy plans that I might use around the house, there's a really nice section on the fuming process and some quality photos of the process used on maple and a couple of other woods. The author of this article also talks about letting the piece outgass for 8 to 12 hours before finishing with a sealer of various varietiesChas.
>How to convince your m'Lady....
> Now. if I can just convince m'Lady to let me build
> an ammonia vapor chamber in the back yard.
step 1. Start to build a fuming chamber in
I think step 2 should be obvious....
step 2. Offer to move it to the backyard.
Baron Conal O'hAirt / Jim Hart
Aude Aliquid Dignum
' Dare Something Worthy '
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> > Now. if I can just convince m'Lady to let me buildstep 3. plead to be let back in...
> > an ammonia vapor chamber in the back yard.
> > Chas.
> How to convince your m'Lady....
> step 1. Start to build a fuming chamber in
> the basement.
> I think step 2 should be obvious....
> step 2. Offer to move it to the backyard.
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- I have heard about doing this using just a framework and a plastic tarp
taped to make a tent over your items, easier to adjust the size and gone
when you are done. Just make sure you get a good seal to keep the ammonia
in as long as you need it and keep the kids, pets, and stray animals away..
Not the misquiotes... let them hang out as close as they want.....
Lord Rhys, Capten gen y Arian Lloer
Privateer to the Midrealm
Arafu at dawnsio mewn adlaw
...Take time to dance in the rain...
>O.k. - it ain't period. but.
>Was doing a bit of reading down at the new Border's bookstore that just
>opened in Peoria today and ran across a description of how Stickley did the
>finishes on his Craftsman style furniture.
>Basically. he primarily used white oak. the oak furniture would be put into
>an enclosed room in which ammonia fumes were introduced. This is how he
>achieved the nifty signature dark brown look. The there were three keys to
>making this work.
>1: Timing. apparently he worked out a formula for determining how long
>(in hours) pieces needed to be exposed to the fumes to get the color he was
>2: The material had to be 'wet'. fresh oak reacted best. If the oak was
>too dry it could be wetted by brushing on water.
>3: Tannin level. Old oak or oak that hadn't been cured properly doesn't
>have the appropriate levels of tannin to react to the ammonia. The book
>gave the following solutions:
> a: Mix 3 tablespoons of tannic acid to one gallon of water and
>brush it on. let dry.
> b: (. and this is the cool one). if you don't happen to have access
>to tannic acid, collect about
> 3 dozen acorns. boil them in a gallon or so of water. Let the
>mess cool and discard the acorns.
> This is supposed to work as well a option a:
>[. according to the book, you need to let the tannin/water mixture dry to
>make sure that the tannin are absorbed into the wood.]
>Now. if I can just convince m'Lady to let me build an ammonia vapor chamber
>in the back yard.
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