Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.
 

Re: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain

Expand Messages
  • James W. Pratt, Jr.
    Try a scary sharp low angle plane or a cabinet scraper with a new bur. It worked well on the red oak dovtailed chest I built a few years ago. but the wood was
    Message 1 of 13 , Nov 6, 2005
      Try a scary sharp low angle plane or a cabinet scraper with a new bur.

      It worked well on the red oak dovtailed chest I built a few years ago. but
      the wood was air dried and I was able to make endgrain wood curls with the
      plane.

      James Cunningham

      Cleaning up endgrain


      > I've been working on a few projects in the past week, and run into the
      > same problem on all of them. I spend more than half of my time on a
      > given project trying to clean up endgrain. I'm trying to work only
      > with tools I can document to the 15th century, which means that the
      > only things I have found useful for this task are chisels and files.
      > Does anyone have any suggestions as to ways I could make this task
      > easier without using OOP methods?
      >
      > Laurence of Skraengham
      > Baronial College of Tor Aerie
      > Kingdom on Northshield
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      > Yahoo! Groups Links
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
    • Craig Robert Pierpont
      Laurence, Use a sharp low angled block plans set to take a very fine cut. The grain will split when the cut runs off the edge of the board so you will have to
      Message 2 of 13 , Nov 7, 2005
        Laurence,
            Use a sharp low angled block plans set to take a very fine cut.
            The grain will split when the cut runs off the edge of the board so you will have to work from both ends of your board toward the center or cut a small chamfer on the corner toward which the plane is going before planing the end grain.
            It may be helpful to make narrow cuts working across the end of the board from one side to the other.
            Your first cuts will be hit and miss but once you are below the rough stuff, you should be able to take a cut that will leave the surface almost shiny.
            The way you handle the plane will be quite a bit different from normal edge planing. If you don't have somebody to show you, you'll just have to work at till you get it. You'll get it.

        Craig Robert
        Lord Craig Robert le Luthier de Pierrepont OVO CAR
        Apprentice to Dame Alysea of Ashley

        medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com wrote:
         Date: Sun, 06 Nov 2005 18:11:37 -0000
           From: "lawrence_djd" <teffendar@...>
        Subject: Cleaning up endgrain

        I've been working on a few projects in the past week, and run into the
        same problem on all of them.  I spend more than half of my time on a
        given project trying to clean up endgrain.  I'm trying to work only
        with tools I can document to the 15th century, which means that the
        only things I have found useful for this task are chisels and files.
        Does anyone have any suggestions as to ways I could make this task
        easier without using OOP methods?

        Laurence of Skraengham
        Baronial College of Tor Aerie
        Kingdom on Northshield


        Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.
      • Chuck Phillips
        To add on to this topic, here s a few things I learned this weekend: - Make sure your plane sole is well flattened. - Sharpen to blade until it splits photons.
        Message 3 of 13 , Nov 7, 2005
          To add on to this topic, here's a few things I learned this weekend:
          - Make sure your plane sole is well flattened.
          - Sharpen to blade until it splits photons.
          - Set the cap iron (Provided it has one) a hair's breadth from the edge of the blade.
          - Close down the mouth so that it is only slightly wider than the thickest shaving you want to take.
           
          Breakout on the far end of the stroke will not be a problem if you back up the work with a stop block.  A shooting board will make this much easier.
           
          A well tuned plane can take a shaving from any wood in any direction.  I saw this with my own eyes, and have little doubt that I can replicate the feat. 
           
          Charles Joiner
          Caid
          -----Original Message-----
          From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Craig Robert Pierpont
          Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 11:21 AM
          To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
          Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain

          Laurence,
              Use a sharp low angled block plans set to take a very fine cut.
              The grain will split when the cut runs off the edge of the board so you will have to work from both ends of your board toward the center or cut a small chamfer on the corner toward which the plane is going before planing the end grain.
              It may be helpful to make narrow cuts working across the end of the board from one side to the other.
              Your first cuts will be hit and miss but once you are below the rough stuff, you should be able to take a cut that will leave the surface almost shiny.
              The way you handle the plane will be quite a bit different from normal edge planing. If you don't have somebody to show you, you'll just have to work at till you get it. You'll get it.

          Craig Robert
          Lord Craig Robert le Luthier de Pierrepont OVO CAR
          Apprentice to Dame Alysea of Ashley

          medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com wrote:
           Date: Sun, 06 Nov 2005 18:11:37 -0000
             From: "lawrence_djd" <teffendar@...>
          Subject: Cleaning up endgrain

          I've been working on a few projects in the past week, and run into the
          same problem on all of them.  I spend more than half of my time on a
          given project trying to clean up endgrain.  I'm trying to work only
          with tools I can document to the 15th century, which means that the
          only things I have found useful for this task are chisels and files.
          Does anyone have any suggestions as to ways I could make this task
          easier without using OOP methods?

          Laurence of Skraengham
          Baronial College of Tor Aerie
          Kingdom on Northshield


          Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.

        • kjworz@comcast.net
          Another tip: If you can, skew the blade at an angle to the line of planing, as the angle provides even more slicing action vis scraping/crushing action. Old
          Message 4 of 13 , Nov 8, 2005
            Another tip:

            If you can, skew the blade at an angle to the line of planing, as the angle provides even more slicing action vis scraping/crushing action.

            Old time expensive shooting boards often had a shooting plane with a skewed angle built into the bed. If you have oodles of money and a lot of time to hunt one down you could go that route, but I doubt it is worth the effort for you. You can get good results with the everyday tools that all the tips that have been provided and a small bit of skill.

            Are skewed planes blades Period? Probably not. I have heard of no example extant. Is skewed planing technique Period? Probably. No evidence confirming either way.


            --
            -Chris Schwartz
            Silver Spring, MD


            To add on to this topic, here's a few things I learned this weekend:
            - Make sure your plane sole is well flattened.
            - Sharpen to blade until it splits photons.
            - Set the cap iron (Provided it has one) a hair's breadth from the edge of the blade.
            - Close down the mouth so that it is only slightly wider than the thickest shaving you want to take.

            Breakout on the far end of the stroke will not be a problem if you back up the work with a stop block. A shooting board will make this much easier.

            A well tuned plane can take a shaving from any wood in any direction. I saw this with my own eyes, and have little doubt that I can replicate the feat.

            Charles Joiner
            Caid
            -----Original Message-----
            From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Craig Robert Pierpont
            Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 11:21 AM
            To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
            Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain


            Laurence,
            Use a sharp low angled block plans set to take a very fine cut.
            The grain will split when the cut runs off the edge of the board so you will have to work from both ends of your board toward the center or cut a small chamfer on the corner toward which the plane is going before planing the end grain.
            It may be helpful to make narrow cuts working across the end of the board from one side to the other.
            Your first cuts will be hit and miss but once you are below the rough stuff, you should be able to take a cut that will leave the surface almost shiny.
            The way you handle the plane will be quite a bit different from normal edge planing. If you don't have somebody to show you, you'll just have to work at till you get it. You'll get it.

            Craig Robert
            Lord Craig Robert le Luthier de Pierrepont OVO CAR
            Apprentice to Dame Alysea of Ashley

            medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com wrote:
            Date: Sun, 06 Nov 2005 18:11:37 -0000
            From: "lawrence_djd" <teffendar@...>
            Subject: Cleaning up endgrain

            I've been working on a few projects in the past week, and run into the
            same problem on all of them. I spend more than half of my time on a
            given project trying to clean up endgrain. I'm trying to work only
            with tools I can document to the 15th century, which means that the
            only things I have found useful for this task are chisels and files.
            Does anyone have any suggestions as to ways I could make this task
            easier without using OOP methods?

            Laurence of Skraengham
            Baronial College of Tor Aerie
            Kingdom on Northshield
          • Chuck Phillips
            Chris; I didn t mean to imply that people should go out and hunt down one of the few remaining cast iron shooting boards. Part of the reason those things are
            Message 5 of 13 , Nov 8, 2005
              Chris;
               
              I didn't mean to imply that people should go out and hunt down one of the few remaining cast iron shooting boards.  Part of the reason those things are so rare is that most people saw no reason to buy one in the first place.  All you really need is a couple of boards.  Make one about 4 inches wide, which is wide enough to support your work.  Make a second board about as much wider as the cheek of your plane.  For most of use, that come to about 7 inches.  Both of these are 2-3 feet long.  Fasten the two boards together, stacked on their wide faces.  Add a stop block to the top piece, and Bob's your uncle.
               
              It is entirely plausible that shooting boards fall into the category of "everyday tools".  The reason that few, if any, wooden ones have survived is that they don't look like "tools", and so most were likely pitched into the wood pile along with all those transitional planes.
               
              Charles Joiner
              Caid
              -----Original Message-----
              From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of kjworz@...
              Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2005 4:59 AM
              To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com; medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
              Subject: RE: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain


              Another tip:

              If you can, skew the blade at an angle to the line of planing, as the angle provides even more slicing action vis scraping/crushing action.

              Old time expensive shooting boards often had a shooting plane with a skewed angle built into the bed.  If you have oodles of money and a lot of time to hunt one down you could go that route, but I doubt it is worth the effort for you.  You can get good results with the everyday tools that all the tips that have been provided and a small bit of skill.

              Are skewed planes blades Period?  Probably not.  I have heard of no example extant.  Is skewed planing technique Period?  Probably.  No evidence confirming either way.


              --
              -Chris Schwartz
              Silver Spring, MD


              To add on to this topic, here's a few things I learned this weekend:
              - Make sure your plane sole is well flattened.
              - Sharpen to blade until it splits photons.
              - Set the cap iron (Provided it has one) a hair's breadth from the edge of the blade.
              - Close down the mouth so that it is only slightly wider than the thickest shaving you want to take.

              Breakout on the far end of the stroke will not be a problem if you back up the work with a stop block.  A shooting board will make this much easier.

              A well tuned plane can take a shaving from any wood in any direction.  I saw this with my own eyes, and have little doubt that I can replicate the feat. 

              Charles Joiner
              Caid
              -----Original Message-----
              From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Craig Robert Pierpont
              Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 11:21 AM
              To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
              Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain


              Laurence,
                  Use a sharp low angled block plans set to take a very fine cut.
                  The grain will split when the cut runs off the edge of the board so you will have to work from both ends of your board toward the center or cut a small chamfer on the corner toward which the plane is going before planing the end grain.
                  It may be helpful to make narrow cuts working across the end of the board from one side to the other.
                  Your first cuts will be hit and miss but once you are below the rough stuff, you should be able to take a cut that will leave the surface almost shiny.
                  The way you handle the plane will be quite a bit different from normal edge planing. If you don't have somebody to show you, you'll just have to work at till you get it. You'll get it.

              Craig Robert
              Lord Craig Robert le Luthier de Pierrepont OVO CAR
              Apprentice to Dame Alysea of Ashley

              medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com wrote:
              Date: Sun, 06 Nov 2005 18:11:37 -0000
                 From: "lawrence_djd" <teffendar@...>
              Subject: Cleaning up endgrain

              I've been working on a few projects in the past week, and run into the
              same problem on all of them.  I spend more than half of my time on a
              given project trying to clean up endgrain.  I'm trying to work only
              with tools I can document to the 15th century, which means that the
              only things I have found useful for this task are chisels and files.
              Does anyone have any suggestions as to ways I could make this task
              easier without using OOP methods?

              Laurence of Skraengham
              Baronial College of Tor Aerie
              Kingdom on Northshield

            • michael_recchione
              A shooting board is a necessary piece of equipment if you don t want to use sandpaper. Here s a link to plans for a ramped shooting board and also some plans
              Message 6 of 13 , Nov 8, 2005
                A shooting board is a necessary piece of equipment if you don't want
                to use sandpaper. Here's a link to plans for a ramped shooting board
                and also some plans for other types of shooting boards. Making a
                simple, non-ramped one is about an hours work or less.

                http://www.amgron.clara.net/planingpoints/rampedboard/rampindex.htm

                - Mike

                --- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, "Chuck Phillips" <chuck@c...>
                wrote:
                >
                > Chris;
                >
                > I didn't mean to imply that people should go out and hunt down one
                of the
                > few remaining cast iron shooting boards. Part of the reason those
                things
                > are so rare is that most people saw no reason to buy one in the
                first place.
                > All you really need is a couple of boards. Make one about 4 inches
                wide,
                > which is wide enough to support your work. Make a second board about as
                > much wider as the cheek of your plane. For most of use, that come
                to about
                > 7 inches. Both of these are 2-3 feet long. Fasten the two boards
                together,
                > stacked on their wide faces. Add a stop block to the top piece, and
                Bob's
                > your uncle.
                >
                > It is entirely plausible that shooting boards fall into the category of
                > "everyday tools". The reason that few, if any, wooden ones have
                survived is
                > that they don't look like "tools", and so most were likely pitched
                into the
                > wood pile along with all those transitional planes.
                >
                > Charles Joiner
                > Caid
                > -----Original Message-----
                > From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                > [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of kjworz@c...
                > Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2005 4:59 AM
                > To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com; medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                > Subject: RE: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain
                >
                >
                >
                > Another tip:
                >
                > If you can, skew the blade at an angle to the line of planing, as the
                > angle provides even more slicing action vis scraping/crushing action.
                >
                > Old time expensive shooting boards often had a shooting plane with a
                > skewed angle built into the bed. If you have oodles of money and a
                lot of
                > time to hunt one down you could go that route, but I doubt it is
                worth the
                > effort for you. You can get good results with the everyday tools
                that all
                > the tips that have been provided and a small bit of skill.
                >
                > Are skewed planes blades Period? Probably not. I have heard of no
                > example extant. Is skewed planing technique Period? Probably. No
                evidence
                > confirming either way.
                >
                >
                > --
                > -Chris Schwartz
                > Silver Spring, MD
                >
                >
                > To add on to this topic, here's a few things I learned this weekend:
                > - Make sure your plane sole is well flattened.
                > - Sharpen to blade until it splits photons.
                > - Set the cap iron (Provided it has one) a hair's breadth from the
                edge of
                > the blade.
                > - Close down the mouth so that it is only slightly wider than the
                thickest
                > shaving you want to take.
                >
                > Breakout on the far end of the stroke will not be a problem if you
                back up
                > the work with a stop block. A shooting board will make this much
                easier.
                >
                > A well tuned plane can take a shaving from any wood in any
                direction. I
                > saw this with my own eyes, and have little doubt that I can
                replicate the
                > feat.
                >
                > Charles Joiner
                > Caid
                > -----Original Message-----
                > From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                > [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Craig Robert
                Pierpont
                > Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 11:21 AM
                > To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                > Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain
                >
                >
                > Laurence,
                > Use a sharp low angled block plans set to take a very fine cut.
                > The grain will split when the cut runs off the edge of the
                board so
                > you will have to work from both ends of your board toward the center
                or cut
                > a small chamfer on the corner toward which the plane is going before
                planing
                > the end grain.
                > It may be helpful to make narrow cuts working across the end
                of the
                > board from one side to the other.
                > Your first cuts will be hit and miss but once you are below
                the rough
                > stuff, you should be able to take a cut that will leave the surface
                almost
                > shiny.
                > The way you handle the plane will be quite a bit different
                from normal
                > edge planing. If you don't have somebody to show you, you'll just
                have to
                > work at till you get it. You'll get it.
                >
                > Craig Robert
                > Lord Craig Robert le Luthier de Pierrepont OVO CAR
                > Apprentice to Dame Alysea of Ashley
                >
                > medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com wrote:
                > Date: Sun, 06 Nov 2005 18:11:37 -0000
                > From: "lawrence_djd" <teffendar@h...>
                > Subject: Cleaning up endgrain
                >
                > I've been working on a few projects in the past week, and run into the
                > same problem on all of them. I spend more than half of my time on a
                > given project trying to clean up endgrain. I'm trying to work only
                > with tools I can document to the 15th century, which means that the
                > only things I have found useful for this task are chisels and files.
                > Does anyone have any suggestions as to ways I could make this task
                > easier without using OOP methods?
                >
                > Laurence of Skraengham
                > Baronial College of Tor Aerie
                > Kingdom on Northshield
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                > --
                > YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
                >
                > a.. Visit your group "medievalsawdust" on the web.
                >
                > b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
                > medievalsawdust-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
                >
                > c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
                > Service.
                >
                >
                >
                ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                > --
                >
              • Conal O'hAirt Jim Hart
                What about a finishing scraper with a fresh burr? I m asking, not advising...... ... Baron Conal O hAirt / Jim Hart Aude Aliquid Dignum Dare Something Worthy
                Message 7 of 13 , Nov 8, 2005
                  What about a finishing scraper with a fresh burr?

                  I'm asking, not advising......



                  --- kjworz@... wrote:

                  >
                  > Another tip:
                  >
                  > If you can, skew the blade at an angle to the line
                  > of planing, as the angle provides even more slicing
                  > action vis scraping/crushing action.
                  >
                  > Old time expensive shooting boards often had a
                  > shooting plane with a skewed angle built into the
                  > bed. If you have oodles of money and a lot of time
                  > to hunt one down you could go that route, but I
                  > doubt it is worth the effort for you. You can get
                  > good results with the everyday tools that all the
                  > tips that have been provided and a small bit of
                  > skill.
                  >
                  > Are skewed planes blades Period? Probably not. I
                  > have heard of no example extant. Is skewed planing
                  > technique Period? Probably. No evidence confirming
                  > either way.
                  >
                  >
                  > --
                  > -Chris Schwartz
                  > Silver Spring, MD
                  >
                  >
                  > To add on to this topic, here's a few things I
                  > learned this weekend:
                  > - Make sure your plane sole is well flattened.
                  > - Sharpen to blade until it splits photons.
                  > - Set the cap iron (Provided it has one) a hair's
                  > breadth from the edge of the blade.
                  > - Close down the mouth so that it is only slightly
                  > wider than the thickest shaving you want to take.
                  >
                  > Breakout on the far end of the stroke will not be a
                  > problem if you back up the work with a stop block.
                  > A shooting board will make this much easier.
                  >
                  > A well tuned plane can take a shaving from any wood
                  > in any direction. I saw this with my own eyes, and
                  > have little doubt that I can replicate the feat.
                  >
                  > Charles Joiner
                  > Caid
                  > -----Original Message-----
                  > From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                  > [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
                  > Craig Robert Pierpont
                  > Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 11:21 AM
                  > To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                  > Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain
                  >
                  >
                  > Laurence,
                  > Use a sharp low angled block plans set to take a
                  > very fine cut.
                  > The grain will split when the cut runs off the
                  > edge of the board so you will have to work from both
                  > ends of your board toward the center or cut a small
                  > chamfer on the corner toward which the plane is
                  > going before planing the end grain.
                  > It may be helpful to make narrow cuts working
                  > across the end of the board from one side to the
                  > other.
                  > Your first cuts will be hit and miss but once
                  > you are below the rough stuff, you should be able to
                  > take a cut that will leave the surface almost shiny.
                  > The way you handle the plane will be quite a bit
                  > different from normal edge planing. If you don't
                  > have somebody to show you, you'll just have to work
                  > at till you get it. You'll get it.
                  >
                  > Craig Robert
                  > Lord Craig Robert le Luthier de Pierrepont OVO CAR
                  > Apprentice to Dame Alysea of Ashley
                  >
                  > medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com wrote:
                  > Date: Sun, 06 Nov 2005 18:11:37 -0000
                  > From: "lawrence_djd" <teffendar@...>
                  > Subject: Cleaning up endgrain
                  >
                  > I've been working on a few projects in the past
                  > week, and run into the
                  > same problem on all of them. I spend more than half
                  > of my time on a
                  > given project trying to clean up endgrain. I'm
                  > trying to work only
                  > with tools I can document to the 15th century, which
                  > means that the
                  > only things I have found useful for this task are
                  > chisels and files.
                  > Does anyone have any suggestions as to ways I could
                  > make this task
                  > easier without using OOP methods?
                  >
                  > Laurence of Skraengham
                  > Baronial College of Tor Aerie
                  > Kingdom on Northshield
                  >
                  >


                  Baron Conal O'hAirt / Jim Hart

                  Aude Aliquid Dignum
                  ' Dare Something Worthy '



                  __________________________________
                  Yahoo! FareChase: Search multiple travel sites in one click.
                  http://farechase.yahoo.com
                • Dragano Abbruciati
                  OH, I like that. It also places the blade at an angle for an easier shave. Thanks for sharing. Dragano michael_recchione wrote:
                  Message 8 of 13 , Nov 9, 2005
                    OH, I like that.  It also places the blade at an angle for an easier shave.  Thanks for sharing.
                     
                    Dragano

                    michael_recchione <michael_recchione@...> wrote:
                    A shooting board is a necessary piece of equipment if you don't want
                    to use sandpaper.  Here's a link to plans for a ramped shooting board
                    and also some plans for other types of shooting boards.  Making a
                    simple, non-ramped one is about an hours work or less.

                    http://www.amgron.clara.net/planingpoints/rampedboard/rampindex.htm

                    - Mike

                    --- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, "Chuck Phillips" <chuck@c...>
                    wrote:
                    >
                    > Chris;
                    >
                    > I didn't mean to imply that people should go out and hunt down one
                    of the
                    > few remaining cast iron shooting boards.  Part of the reason those
                    things
                    > are so rare is that most people saw no reason to buy one in the
                    first place.
                    > All you really need is a couple of boards.  Make one about 4 inches
                    wide,
                    > which is wide enough to support your work.  Make a second board about as
                    > much wider as the cheek of your plane.  For most of use, that come
                    to about
                    > 7 inches.  Both of these are 2-3 feet long.  Fasten the two boards
                    together,
                    > stacked on their wide faces.  Add a stop block to the top piece, and
                    Bob's
                    > your uncle.
                    >
                    > It is entirely plausible that shooting boards fall into the category of
                    > "everyday tools".  The reason that few, if any, wooden ones have
                    survived is
                    > that they don't look like "tools", and so most were likely pitched
                    into the
                    > wood pile along with all those transitional planes.
                    >
                    > Charles Joiner
                    > Caid
                    >   -----Original Message-----
                    >   From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                    > [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of kjworz@c...
                    >   Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2005 4:59 AM
                    >   To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com; medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                    >   Subject: RE: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >   Another tip:
                    >
                    >   If you can, skew the blade at an angle to the line of planing, as the
                    > angle provides even more slicing action vis scraping/crushing action.
                    >
                    >   Old time expensive shooting boards often had a shooting plane with a
                    > skewed angle built into the bed.  If you have oodles of money and a
                    lot of
                    > time to hunt one down you could go that route, but I doubt it is
                    worth the
                    > effort for you.  You can get good results with the everyday tools
                    that all
                    > the tips that have been provided and a small bit of skill.
                    >
                    >   Are skewed planes blades Period?  Probably not.  I have heard of no
                    > example extant.  Is skewed planing technique Period?  Probably.  No
                    evidence
                    > confirming either way.
                    >
                    >
                    >   --
                    >   -Chris Schwartz
                    >   Silver Spring, MD
                    >
                    >
                    >   To add on to this topic, here's a few things I learned this weekend:
                    >   - Make sure your plane sole is well flattened.
                    >   - Sharpen to blade until it splits photons.
                    >   - Set the cap iron (Provided it has one) a hair's breadth from the
                    edge of
                    > the blade.
                    >   - Close down the mouth so that it is only slightly wider than the
                    thickest
                    > shaving you want to take.
                    >
                    >   Breakout on the far end of the stroke will not be a problem if you
                    back up
                    > the work with a stop block.  A shooting board will make this much
                    easier.
                    >
                    >   A well tuned plane can take a shaving from any wood in any
                    direction.  I
                    > saw this with my own eyes, and have little doubt that I can
                    replicate the
                    > feat.
                    >
                    >   Charles Joiner
                    >   Caid
                    >   -----Original Message-----
                    >   From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                    > [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Craig Robert
                    Pierpont
                    >   Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 11:21 AM
                    >   To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                    >   Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain
                    >
                    >
                    >   Laurence,
                    >       Use a sharp low angled block plans set to take a very fine cut.
                    >       The grain will split when the cut runs off the edge of the
                    board so
                    > you will have to work from both ends of your board toward the center
                    or cut
                    > a small chamfer on the corner toward which the plane is going before
                    planing
                    > the end grain.
                    >       It may be helpful to make narrow cuts working across the end
                    of the
                    > board from one side to the other.
                    >       Your first cuts will be hit and miss but once you are below
                    the rough
                    > stuff, you should be able to take a cut that will leave the surface
                    almost
                    > shiny.
                    >       The way you handle the plane will be quite a bit different
                    from normal
                    > edge planing. If you don't have somebody to show you, you'll just
                    have to
                    > work at till you get it. You'll get it.
                    >
                    >   Craig Robert
                    >   Lord Craig Robert le Luthier de Pierrepont OVO CAR
                    >   Apprentice to Dame Alysea of Ashley
                    >
                    >   medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com wrote:
                    >   Date: Sun, 06 Nov 2005 18:11:37 -0000
                    >      From: "lawrence_djd" <teffendar@h...>
                    >   Subject: Cleaning up endgrain
                    >
                    >   I've been working on a few projects in the past week, and run into the
                    >   same problem on all of them.  I spend more than half of my time on a
                    >   given project trying to clean up endgrain.  I'm trying to work only
                    >   with tools I can document to the 15th century, which means that the
                    >   only things I have found useful for this task are chisels and files.
                    >   Does anyone have any suggestions as to ways I could make this task
                    >   easier without using OOP methods?
                    >
                    >   Laurence of Skraengham
                    >   Baronial College of Tor Aerie
                    >   Kingdom on Northshield
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                    > --
                    >   YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
                    >
                    >     a..  Visit your group "medievalsawdust" on the web.
                    >
                    >     b..  To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
                    >      medievalsawdust-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
                    >
                    >     c..  Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
                    > Service.
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                    > --
                    >







                    SPONSORED LINKS
                    Medieval and renaissance costumeSociety for creative anachronismMedieval time dinner and tournament


                    Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.

                  • Chuck Phillips
                    There are two issues with using a scraper. First, the edge is completely unconstrained, so that unless you have godlike skill you will not get the work truly
                    Message 9 of 13 , Nov 9, 2005
                      There are two issues with using a scraper.  First, the edge is completely unconstrained, so that unless you have godlike skill you will not get the work truly flat.  Secondly, a scraper doesn't leave as clean a surface as a plane.  Better than sanding, but still not as nice as a plane.
                      -----Original Message-----
                      From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Conal O'hAirt Jim Hart
                      Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2005 2:06 PM
                      To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                      Subject: RE: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain

                      What about a finishing scraper with a fresh burr?

                      I'm asking, not advising......



                      --- kjworz@... wrote:

                      >
                      > Another tip:
                      >
                      > If you can, skew the blade at an angle to the line
                      > of planing, as the angle provides even more slicing
                      > action vis scraping/crushing action.
                      >
                      > Old time expensive shooting boards often had a
                      > shooting plane with a skewed angle built into the
                      > bed.  If you have oodles of money and a lot of time
                      > to hunt one down you could go that route, but I
                      > doubt it is worth the effort for you.  You can get
                      > good results with the everyday tools that all the
                      > tips that have been provided and a small bit of
                      > skill.
                      >
                      > Are skewed planes blades Period?  Probably not.  I
                      > have heard of no example extant.  Is skewed planing
                      > technique Period?  Probably.  No evidence confirming
                      > either way.
                      >
                      >
                      > --
                      > -Chris Schwartz
                      > Silver Spring, MD
                      >
                      >
                      > To add on to this topic, here's a few things I
                      > learned this weekend:
                      > - Make sure your plane sole is well flattened.
                      > - Sharpen to blade until it splits photons.
                      > - Set the cap iron (Provided it has one) a hair's
                      > breadth from the edge of the blade.
                      > - Close down the mouth so that it is only slightly
                      > wider than the thickest shaving you want to take.

                      > Breakout on the far end of the stroke will not be a
                      > problem if you back up the work with a stop block.
                      > A shooting board will make this much easier.

                      > A well tuned plane can take a shaving from any wood
                      > in any direction.  I saw this with my own eyes, and
                      > have little doubt that I can replicate the feat. 

                      > Charles Joiner
                      > Caid
                      > -----Original Message-----
                      > From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                      > [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
                      > Craig Robert Pierpont
                      > Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 11:21 AM
                      > To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                      > Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain
                      >
                      >
                      > Laurence,
                      >     Use a sharp low angled block plans set to take a
                      > very fine cut.
                      >     The grain will split when the cut runs off the
                      > edge of the board so you will have to work from both
                      > ends of your board toward the center or cut a small
                      > chamfer on the corner toward which the plane is
                      > going before planing the end grain.
                      >     It may be helpful to make narrow cuts working
                      > across the end of the board from one side to the
                      > other.
                      >     Your first cuts will be hit and miss but once
                      > you are below the rough stuff, you should be able to
                      > take a cut that will leave the surface almost shiny.
                      >     The way you handle the plane will be quite a bit
                      > different from normal edge planing. If you don't
                      > have somebody to show you, you'll just have to work
                      > at till you get it. You'll get it.
                      >
                      > Craig Robert
                      > Lord Craig Robert le Luthier de Pierrepont OVO CAR
                      > Apprentice to Dame Alysea of Ashley
                      >
                      > medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com wrote:
                      >  Date: Sun, 06 Nov 2005 18:11:37 -0000
                      >    From: "lawrence_djd" <teffendar@...>
                      > Subject: Cleaning up endgrain
                      >
                      > I've been working on a few projects in the past
                      > week, and run into the
                      > same problem on all of them.  I spend more than half
                      > of my time on a
                      > given project trying to clean up endgrain.  I'm
                      > trying to work only
                      > with tools I can document to the 15th century, which
                      > means that the
                      > only things I have found useful for this task are
                      > chisels and files.
                      > Does anyone have any suggestions as to ways I could
                      > make this task
                      > easier without using OOP methods?
                      >
                      > Laurence of Skraengham
                      > Baronial College of Tor Aerie
                      > Kingdom on Northshield
                      >
                      >


                      Baron Conal O'hAirt / Jim Hart

                         Aude Aliquid Dignum
                           ' Dare Something Worthy '


                                 
                      __________________________________
                      Yahoo! FareChase: Search multiple travel sites in one click.
                      http://farechase.yahoo.com
                    • James W. Pratt, Jr.
                      The other side er..edge is that a scaper will cut knots and curly grain better than a plane. There is such a thing as a scraper plane and a Stanley #70 I
                      Message 10 of 13 , Nov 9, 2005
                        The other side er..edge is that  a scaper will cut knots and curly grain better than a plane.  There is such a thing as a scraper plane and a Stanley #70 I think.. scraper thing that looks a lot like a spoke shave only with a big flat face.
                         
                        James Cunningham

                        There are two issues with using a scraper.  First, the edge is completely unconstrained, so that unless you have godlike skill you will not get the work truly flat.  Secondly, a scraper doesn't leave as clean a surface as a plane.  Better than sanding, but still not as nice as a plane.
                        -----Original Message-----
                        From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Conal O'hAirt Jim Hart
                        Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2005 2:06 PM
                        To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                        Subject: RE: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain

                        What about a finishing scraper with a fresh burr?

                        I'm asking, not advising......



                        --- kjworz@... wrote:

                        >
                        > Another tip:
                        >
                        > If you can, skew the blade at an angle to the line
                        > of planing, as the angle provides even more slicing
                        > action vis scraping/crushing action.
                        >
                        > Old time expensive shooting boards often had a
                        > shooting plane with a skewed angle built into the
                        > bed.  If you have oodles of money and a lot of time
                        > to hunt one down you could go that route, but I
                        > doubt it is worth the effort for you.  You can get
                        > good results with the everyday tools that all the
                        > tips that have been provided and a small bit of
                        > skill.
                        >
                        > Are skewed planes blades Period?  Probably not.  I
                        > have heard of no example extant.  Is skewed planing
                        > technique Period?  Probably.  No evidence confirming
                        > either way.
                        >
                        >
                        > --
                        > -Chris Schwartz
                        > Silver Spring, MD
                        >
                        >
                        > To add on to this topic, here's a few things I
                        > learned this weekend:
                        > - Make sure your plane sole is well flattened.
                        > - Sharpen to blade until it splits photons.
                        > - Set the cap iron (Provided it has one) a hair's
                        > breadth from the edge of the blade.
                        > - Close down the mouth so that it is only slightly
                        > wider than the thickest shaving you want to take.

                        > Breakout on the far end of the stroke will not be a
                        > problem if you back up the work with a stop block.
                        > A shooting board will make this much easier.

                        > A well tuned plane can take a shaving from any wood
                        > in any direction.  I saw this with my own eyes, and
                        > have little doubt that I can replicate the feat. 

                        > Charles Joiner
                        > Caid
                        > -----Original Message-----
                        > From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                        > [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
                        > Craig Robert Pierpont
                        > Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 11:21 AM
                        > To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                        > Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain
                        >
                        >
                        > Laurence,
                        >     Use a sharp low angled block plans set to take a
                        > very fine cut.
                        >     The grain will split when the cut runs off the
                        > edge of the board so you will have to work from both
                        > ends of your board toward the center or cut a small
                        > chamfer on the corner toward which the plane is
                        > going before planing the end grain.
                        >     It may be helpful to make narrow cuts working
                        > across the end of the board from one side to the
                        > other.
                        >     Your first cuts will be hit and miss but once
                        > you are below the rough stuff, you should be able to
                        > take a cut that will leave the surface almost shiny.
                        >     The way you handle the plane will be quite a bit
                        > different from normal edge planing. If you don't
                        > have somebody to show you, you'll just have to work
                        > at till you get it. You'll get it.
                        >
                        > Craig Robert
                        > Lord Craig Robert le Luthier de Pierrepont OVO CAR
                        > Apprentice to Dame Alysea of Ashley
                        >
                        > medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com wrote:
                        >  Date: Sun, 06 Nov 2005 18:11:37 -0000
                        >    From: "lawrence_djd" <teffendar@...>
                        > Subject: Cleaning up endgrain
                        >
                        > I've been working on a few projects in the past
                        > week, and run into the
                        > same problem on all of them.  I spend more than half
                        > of my time on a
                        > given project trying to clean up endgrain.  I'm
                        > trying to work only
                        > with tools I can document to the 15th century, which
                        > means that the
                        > only things I have found useful for this task are
                        > chisels and files.
                        > Does anyone have any suggestions as to ways I could
                        > make this task
                        > easier without using OOP methods?
                        >
                        > Laurence of Skraengham
                        > Baronial College of Tor Aerie
                        > Kingdom on Northshield
                        >
                        >


                        Baron Conal O'hAirt / Jim Hart

                           Aude Aliquid Dignum
                             ' Dare Something Worthy '


                                   
                        __________________________________
                        Yahoo! FareChase: Search multiple travel sites in one click.
                        http://farechase.yahoo.com
                      • Chuck Phillips
                        I think the tool you re describing is the Stanley #12. The #70 is more like a scraper on a stick. Charles Joiner Caid ... From:
                        Message 11 of 13 , Nov 9, 2005
                          I think the tool you're describing is the Stanley #12.  The #70 is more like a scraper on a stick.
                           
                          Charles Joiner
                          Caid
                          -----Original Message-----
                          From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of James W. Pratt, Jr.
                          Sent: Wednesday, November 09, 2005 5:52 PM
                          To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                          Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain

                          The other side er..edge is that  a scaper will cut knots and curly grain better than a plane.  There is such a thing as a scraper plane and a Stanley #70 I think.. scraper thing that looks a lot like a spoke shave only with a big flat face.
                           
                          James Cunningham

                          There are two issues with using a scraper.  First, the edge is completely unconstrained, so that unless you have godlike skill you will not get the work truly flat.  Secondly, a scraper doesn't leave as clean a surface as a plane.  Better than sanding, but still not as nice as a plane.
                          -----Original Message-----
                          From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Conal O'hAirt Jim Hart
                          Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2005 2:06 PM
                          To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                          Subject: RE: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain

                          What about a finishing scraper with a fresh burr?

                          I'm asking, not advising......



                          --- kjworz@... wrote:

                          >
                          > Another tip:
                          >
                          > If you can, skew the blade at an angle to the line
                          > of planing, as the angle provides even more slicing
                          > action vis scraping/crushing action.
                          >
                          > Old time expensive shooting boards often had a
                          > shooting plane with a skewed angle built into the
                          > bed.  If you have oodles of money and a lot of time
                          > to hunt one down you could go that route, but I
                          > doubt it is worth the effort for you.  You can get
                          > good results with the everyday tools that all the
                          > tips that have been provided and a small bit of
                          > skill.
                          >
                          > Are skewed planes blades Period?  Probably not.  I
                          > have heard of no example extant.  Is skewed planing
                          > technique Period?  Probably.  No evidence confirming
                          > either way.
                          >
                          >
                          > --
                          > -Chris Schwartz
                          > Silver Spring, MD
                          >
                          >
                          > To add on to this topic, here's a few things I
                          > learned this weekend:
                          > - Make sure your plane sole is well flattened.
                          > - Sharpen to blade until it splits photons.
                          > - Set the cap iron (Provided it has one) a hair's
                          > breadth from the edge of the blade.
                          > - Close down the mouth so that it is only slightly
                          > wider than the thickest shaving you want to take.

                          > Breakout on the far end of the stroke will not be a
                          > problem if you back up the work with a stop block.
                          > A shooting board will make this much easier.

                          > A well tuned plane can take a shaving from any wood
                          > in any direction.  I saw this with my own eyes, and
                          > have little doubt that I can replicate the feat. 

                          > Charles Joiner
                          > Caid
                          > -----Original Message-----
                          > From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                          > [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
                          > Craig Robert Pierpont
                          > Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 11:21 AM
                          > To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                          > Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain
                          >
                          >
                          > Laurence,
                          >     Use a sharp low angled block plans set to take a
                          > very fine cut.
                          >     The grain will split when the cut runs off the
                          > edge of the board so you will have to work from both
                          > ends of your board toward the center or cut a small
                          > chamfer on the corner toward which the plane is
                          > going before planing the end grain.
                          >     It may be helpful to make narrow cuts working
                          > across the end of the board from one side to the
                          > other.
                          >     Your first cuts will be hit and miss but once
                          > you are below the rough stuff, you should be able to
                          > take a cut that will leave the surface almost shiny.
                          >     The way you handle the plane will be quite a bit
                          > different from normal edge planing. If you don't
                          > have somebody to show you, you'll just have to work
                          > at till you get it. You'll get it.
                          >
                          > Craig Robert
                          > Lord Craig Robert le Luthier de Pierrepont OVO CAR
                          > Apprentice to Dame Alysea of Ashley
                          >
                          > medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com wrote:
                          >  Date: Sun, 06 Nov 2005 18:11:37 -0000
                          >    From: "lawrence_djd" <teffendar@...>
                          > Subject: Cleaning up endgrain
                          >
                          > I've been working on a few projects in the past
                          > week, and run into the
                          > same problem on all of them.  I spend more than half
                          > of my time on a
                          > given project trying to clean up endgrain.  I'm
                          > trying to work only
                          > with tools I can document to the 15th century, which
                          > means that the
                          > only things I have found useful for this task are
                          > chisels and files.
                          > Does anyone have any suggestions as to ways I could
                          > make this task
                          > easier without using OOP methods?
                          >
                          > Laurence of Skraengham
                          > Baronial College of Tor Aerie
                          > Kingdom on Northshield
                          >
                          >


                          Baron Conal O'hAirt / Jim Hart

                             Aude Aliquid Dignum
                               ' Dare Something Worthy '


                                     
                          __________________________________
                          Yahoo! FareChase: Search multiple travel sites in one click.
                          http://farechase.yahoo.com
                        • michael_recchione
                          Scrapers don t work particularly well on endgrain, and have issues with softer woods in general. In more recent times, bevel-up low angle planes have been
                          Message 12 of 13 , Nov 10, 2005
                            Scrapers don't work particularly well on endgrain, and have issues with
                            softer woods in general. In more recent times, bevel-up low angle
                            planes have been touted as the thing to use on end-grain, and they
                            certainly work well (e.g. a Stanley 65 or 61 1/2 or any of a number of
                            the new offerings from Lee Valley). But they're almost equally
                            certainly not period in the sense that bedding and supporting an iron
                            at a very low angle is very difficult to do with a wooden plane body
                            and the resulting plane is extremely fragile. The good news is, as
                            someone else pointed out, any plane with a sharp iron and set for a
                            fine cut handles end-grain just fine. Again, as was pointed out,
                            skewing the plane as you approach the wood lowers the effective cutting
                            angle and was almost certainly a period technique (it would be hard to
                            imagine that it wasn't - it just amounts to holding the plane at a
                            different angle with your hands as you push it).

                            So, if you're determined to do this in a period way, use a wooden
                            bodied smoother set for a fine cut (size of mouth opening is irrelevant
                            for endgrain), and skew it relative to the work. To prevent break out,
                            either use a backing block, a chamfer or work towards the middle from
                            either side.

                            - Mike
                          Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.