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Cleaning up endgrain

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  • lawrence_djd
    I ve been working on a few projects in the past week, and run into the same problem on all of them. I spend more than half of my time on a given project
    Message 1 of 13 , Nov 6, 2005
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      I've been working on a few projects in the past week, and run into the
      same problem on all of them. I spend more than half of my time on a
      given project trying to clean up endgrain. I'm trying to work only
      with tools I can document to the 15th century, which means that the
      only things I have found useful for this task are chisels and files.
      Does anyone have any suggestions as to ways I could make this task
      easier without using OOP methods?

      Laurence of Skraengham
      Baronial College of Tor Aerie
      Kingdom on Northshield
    • James W. Pratt, Jr.
      Try a scary sharp low angle plane or a cabinet scraper with a new bur. It worked well on the red oak dovtailed chest I built a few years ago. but the wood was
      Message 2 of 13 , Nov 6, 2005
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        Try a scary sharp low angle plane or a cabinet scraper with a new bur.

        It worked well on the red oak dovtailed chest I built a few years ago. but
        the wood was air dried and I was able to make endgrain wood curls with the
        plane.

        James Cunningham

        Cleaning up endgrain


        > I've been working on a few projects in the past week, and run into the
        > same problem on all of them. I spend more than half of my time on a
        > given project trying to clean up endgrain. I'm trying to work only
        > with tools I can document to the 15th century, which means that the
        > only things I have found useful for this task are chisels and files.
        > Does anyone have any suggestions as to ways I could make this task
        > easier without using OOP methods?
        >
        > Laurence of Skraengham
        > Baronial College of Tor Aerie
        > Kingdom on Northshield
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        > Yahoo! Groups Links
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
      • Craig Robert Pierpont
        Laurence, Use a sharp low angled block plans set to take a very fine cut. The grain will split when the cut runs off the edge of the board so you will have to
        Message 3 of 13 , Nov 7, 2005
        • 0 Attachment
          Laurence,
              Use a sharp low angled block plans set to take a very fine cut.
              The grain will split when the cut runs off the edge of the board so you will have to work from both ends of your board toward the center or cut a small chamfer on the corner toward which the plane is going before planing the end grain.
              It may be helpful to make narrow cuts working across the end of the board from one side to the other.
              Your first cuts will be hit and miss but once you are below the rough stuff, you should be able to take a cut that will leave the surface almost shiny.
              The way you handle the plane will be quite a bit different from normal edge planing. If you don't have somebody to show you, you'll just have to work at till you get it. You'll get it.

          Craig Robert
          Lord Craig Robert le Luthier de Pierrepont OVO CAR
          Apprentice to Dame Alysea of Ashley

          medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com wrote:
           Date: Sun, 06 Nov 2005 18:11:37 -0000
             From: "lawrence_djd" <teffendar@...>
          Subject: Cleaning up endgrain

          I've been working on a few projects in the past week, and run into the
          same problem on all of them.  I spend more than half of my time on a
          given project trying to clean up endgrain.  I'm trying to work only
          with tools I can document to the 15th century, which means that the
          only things I have found useful for this task are chisels and files.
          Does anyone have any suggestions as to ways I could make this task
          easier without using OOP methods?

          Laurence of Skraengham
          Baronial College of Tor Aerie
          Kingdom on Northshield


          Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.
        • Chuck Phillips
          To add on to this topic, here s a few things I learned this weekend: - Make sure your plane sole is well flattened. - Sharpen to blade until it splits photons.
          Message 4 of 13 , Nov 7, 2005
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            To add on to this topic, here's a few things I learned this weekend:
            - Make sure your plane sole is well flattened.
            - Sharpen to blade until it splits photons.
            - Set the cap iron (Provided it has one) a hair's breadth from the edge of the blade.
            - Close down the mouth so that it is only slightly wider than the thickest shaving you want to take.
             
            Breakout on the far end of the stroke will not be a problem if you back up the work with a stop block.  A shooting board will make this much easier.
             
            A well tuned plane can take a shaving from any wood in any direction.  I saw this with my own eyes, and have little doubt that I can replicate the feat. 
             
            Charles Joiner
            Caid
            -----Original Message-----
            From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Craig Robert Pierpont
            Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 11:21 AM
            To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
            Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain

            Laurence,
                Use a sharp low angled block plans set to take a very fine cut.
                The grain will split when the cut runs off the edge of the board so you will have to work from both ends of your board toward the center or cut a small chamfer on the corner toward which the plane is going before planing the end grain.
                It may be helpful to make narrow cuts working across the end of the board from one side to the other.
                Your first cuts will be hit and miss but once you are below the rough stuff, you should be able to take a cut that will leave the surface almost shiny.
                The way you handle the plane will be quite a bit different from normal edge planing. If you don't have somebody to show you, you'll just have to work at till you get it. You'll get it.

            Craig Robert
            Lord Craig Robert le Luthier de Pierrepont OVO CAR
            Apprentice to Dame Alysea of Ashley

            medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com wrote:
             Date: Sun, 06 Nov 2005 18:11:37 -0000
               From: "lawrence_djd" <teffendar@...>
            Subject: Cleaning up endgrain

            I've been working on a few projects in the past week, and run into the
            same problem on all of them.  I spend more than half of my time on a
            given project trying to clean up endgrain.  I'm trying to work only
            with tools I can document to the 15th century, which means that the
            only things I have found useful for this task are chisels and files.
            Does anyone have any suggestions as to ways I could make this task
            easier without using OOP methods?

            Laurence of Skraengham
            Baronial College of Tor Aerie
            Kingdom on Northshield


            Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.

          • kjworz@comcast.net
            Another tip: If you can, skew the blade at an angle to the line of planing, as the angle provides even more slicing action vis scraping/crushing action. Old
            Message 5 of 13 , Nov 8, 2005
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              Another tip:

              If you can, skew the blade at an angle to the line of planing, as the angle provides even more slicing action vis scraping/crushing action.

              Old time expensive shooting boards often had a shooting plane with a skewed angle built into the bed. If you have oodles of money and a lot of time to hunt one down you could go that route, but I doubt it is worth the effort for you. You can get good results with the everyday tools that all the tips that have been provided and a small bit of skill.

              Are skewed planes blades Period? Probably not. I have heard of no example extant. Is skewed planing technique Period? Probably. No evidence confirming either way.


              --
              -Chris Schwartz
              Silver Spring, MD


              To add on to this topic, here's a few things I learned this weekend:
              - Make sure your plane sole is well flattened.
              - Sharpen to blade until it splits photons.
              - Set the cap iron (Provided it has one) a hair's breadth from the edge of the blade.
              - Close down the mouth so that it is only slightly wider than the thickest shaving you want to take.

              Breakout on the far end of the stroke will not be a problem if you back up the work with a stop block. A shooting board will make this much easier.

              A well tuned plane can take a shaving from any wood in any direction. I saw this with my own eyes, and have little doubt that I can replicate the feat.

              Charles Joiner
              Caid
              -----Original Message-----
              From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Craig Robert Pierpont
              Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 11:21 AM
              To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
              Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain


              Laurence,
              Use a sharp low angled block plans set to take a very fine cut.
              The grain will split when the cut runs off the edge of the board so you will have to work from both ends of your board toward the center or cut a small chamfer on the corner toward which the plane is going before planing the end grain.
              It may be helpful to make narrow cuts working across the end of the board from one side to the other.
              Your first cuts will be hit and miss but once you are below the rough stuff, you should be able to take a cut that will leave the surface almost shiny.
              The way you handle the plane will be quite a bit different from normal edge planing. If you don't have somebody to show you, you'll just have to work at till you get it. You'll get it.

              Craig Robert
              Lord Craig Robert le Luthier de Pierrepont OVO CAR
              Apprentice to Dame Alysea of Ashley

              medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com wrote:
              Date: Sun, 06 Nov 2005 18:11:37 -0000
              From: "lawrence_djd" <teffendar@...>
              Subject: Cleaning up endgrain

              I've been working on a few projects in the past week, and run into the
              same problem on all of them. I spend more than half of my time on a
              given project trying to clean up endgrain. I'm trying to work only
              with tools I can document to the 15th century, which means that the
              only things I have found useful for this task are chisels and files.
              Does anyone have any suggestions as to ways I could make this task
              easier without using OOP methods?

              Laurence of Skraengham
              Baronial College of Tor Aerie
              Kingdom on Northshield
            • Chuck Phillips
              Chris; I didn t mean to imply that people should go out and hunt down one of the few remaining cast iron shooting boards. Part of the reason those things are
              Message 6 of 13 , Nov 8, 2005
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                Chris;
                 
                I didn't mean to imply that people should go out and hunt down one of the few remaining cast iron shooting boards.  Part of the reason those things are so rare is that most people saw no reason to buy one in the first place.  All you really need is a couple of boards.  Make one about 4 inches wide, which is wide enough to support your work.  Make a second board about as much wider as the cheek of your plane.  For most of use, that come to about 7 inches.  Both of these are 2-3 feet long.  Fasten the two boards together, stacked on their wide faces.  Add a stop block to the top piece, and Bob's your uncle.
                 
                It is entirely plausible that shooting boards fall into the category of "everyday tools".  The reason that few, if any, wooden ones have survived is that they don't look like "tools", and so most were likely pitched into the wood pile along with all those transitional planes.
                 
                Charles Joiner
                Caid
                -----Original Message-----
                From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of kjworz@...
                Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2005 4:59 AM
                To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com; medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                Subject: RE: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain


                Another tip:

                If you can, skew the blade at an angle to the line of planing, as the angle provides even more slicing action vis scraping/crushing action.

                Old time expensive shooting boards often had a shooting plane with a skewed angle built into the bed.  If you have oodles of money and a lot of time to hunt one down you could go that route, but I doubt it is worth the effort for you.  You can get good results with the everyday tools that all the tips that have been provided and a small bit of skill.

                Are skewed planes blades Period?  Probably not.  I have heard of no example extant.  Is skewed planing technique Period?  Probably.  No evidence confirming either way.


                --
                -Chris Schwartz
                Silver Spring, MD


                To add on to this topic, here's a few things I learned this weekend:
                - Make sure your plane sole is well flattened.
                - Sharpen to blade until it splits photons.
                - Set the cap iron (Provided it has one) a hair's breadth from the edge of the blade.
                - Close down the mouth so that it is only slightly wider than the thickest shaving you want to take.

                Breakout on the far end of the stroke will not be a problem if you back up the work with a stop block.  A shooting board will make this much easier.

                A well tuned plane can take a shaving from any wood in any direction.  I saw this with my own eyes, and have little doubt that I can replicate the feat. 

                Charles Joiner
                Caid
                -----Original Message-----
                From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Craig Robert Pierpont
                Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 11:21 AM
                To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain


                Laurence,
                    Use a sharp low angled block plans set to take a very fine cut.
                    The grain will split when the cut runs off the edge of the board so you will have to work from both ends of your board toward the center or cut a small chamfer on the corner toward which the plane is going before planing the end grain.
                    It may be helpful to make narrow cuts working across the end of the board from one side to the other.
                    Your first cuts will be hit and miss but once you are below the rough stuff, you should be able to take a cut that will leave the surface almost shiny.
                    The way you handle the plane will be quite a bit different from normal edge planing. If you don't have somebody to show you, you'll just have to work at till you get it. You'll get it.

                Craig Robert
                Lord Craig Robert le Luthier de Pierrepont OVO CAR
                Apprentice to Dame Alysea of Ashley

                medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com wrote:
                Date: Sun, 06 Nov 2005 18:11:37 -0000
                   From: "lawrence_djd" <teffendar@...>
                Subject: Cleaning up endgrain

                I've been working on a few projects in the past week, and run into the
                same problem on all of them.  I spend more than half of my time on a
                given project trying to clean up endgrain.  I'm trying to work only
                with tools I can document to the 15th century, which means that the
                only things I have found useful for this task are chisels and files.
                Does anyone have any suggestions as to ways I could make this task
                easier without using OOP methods?

                Laurence of Skraengham
                Baronial College of Tor Aerie
                Kingdom on Northshield

              • michael_recchione
                A shooting board is a necessary piece of equipment if you don t want to use sandpaper. Here s a link to plans for a ramped shooting board and also some plans
                Message 7 of 13 , Nov 8, 2005
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                  A shooting board is a necessary piece of equipment if you don't want
                  to use sandpaper. Here's a link to plans for a ramped shooting board
                  and also some plans for other types of shooting boards. Making a
                  simple, non-ramped one is about an hours work or less.

                  http://www.amgron.clara.net/planingpoints/rampedboard/rampindex.htm

                  - Mike

                  --- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, "Chuck Phillips" <chuck@c...>
                  wrote:
                  >
                  > Chris;
                  >
                  > I didn't mean to imply that people should go out and hunt down one
                  of the
                  > few remaining cast iron shooting boards. Part of the reason those
                  things
                  > are so rare is that most people saw no reason to buy one in the
                  first place.
                  > All you really need is a couple of boards. Make one about 4 inches
                  wide,
                  > which is wide enough to support your work. Make a second board about as
                  > much wider as the cheek of your plane. For most of use, that come
                  to about
                  > 7 inches. Both of these are 2-3 feet long. Fasten the two boards
                  together,
                  > stacked on their wide faces. Add a stop block to the top piece, and
                  Bob's
                  > your uncle.
                  >
                  > It is entirely plausible that shooting boards fall into the category of
                  > "everyday tools". The reason that few, if any, wooden ones have
                  survived is
                  > that they don't look like "tools", and so most were likely pitched
                  into the
                  > wood pile along with all those transitional planes.
                  >
                  > Charles Joiner
                  > Caid
                  > -----Original Message-----
                  > From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                  > [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of kjworz@c...
                  > Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2005 4:59 AM
                  > To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com; medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                  > Subject: RE: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  > Another tip:
                  >
                  > If you can, skew the blade at an angle to the line of planing, as the
                  > angle provides even more slicing action vis scraping/crushing action.
                  >
                  > Old time expensive shooting boards often had a shooting plane with a
                  > skewed angle built into the bed. If you have oodles of money and a
                  lot of
                  > time to hunt one down you could go that route, but I doubt it is
                  worth the
                  > effort for you. You can get good results with the everyday tools
                  that all
                  > the tips that have been provided and a small bit of skill.
                  >
                  > Are skewed planes blades Period? Probably not. I have heard of no
                  > example extant. Is skewed planing technique Period? Probably. No
                  evidence
                  > confirming either way.
                  >
                  >
                  > --
                  > -Chris Schwartz
                  > Silver Spring, MD
                  >
                  >
                  > To add on to this topic, here's a few things I learned this weekend:
                  > - Make sure your plane sole is well flattened.
                  > - Sharpen to blade until it splits photons.
                  > - Set the cap iron (Provided it has one) a hair's breadth from the
                  edge of
                  > the blade.
                  > - Close down the mouth so that it is only slightly wider than the
                  thickest
                  > shaving you want to take.
                  >
                  > Breakout on the far end of the stroke will not be a problem if you
                  back up
                  > the work with a stop block. A shooting board will make this much
                  easier.
                  >
                  > A well tuned plane can take a shaving from any wood in any
                  direction. I
                  > saw this with my own eyes, and have little doubt that I can
                  replicate the
                  > feat.
                  >
                  > Charles Joiner
                  > Caid
                  > -----Original Message-----
                  > From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                  > [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Craig Robert
                  Pierpont
                  > Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 11:21 AM
                  > To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                  > Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain
                  >
                  >
                  > Laurence,
                  > Use a sharp low angled block plans set to take a very fine cut.
                  > The grain will split when the cut runs off the edge of the
                  board so
                  > you will have to work from both ends of your board toward the center
                  or cut
                  > a small chamfer on the corner toward which the plane is going before
                  planing
                  > the end grain.
                  > It may be helpful to make narrow cuts working across the end
                  of the
                  > board from one side to the other.
                  > Your first cuts will be hit and miss but once you are below
                  the rough
                  > stuff, you should be able to take a cut that will leave the surface
                  almost
                  > shiny.
                  > The way you handle the plane will be quite a bit different
                  from normal
                  > edge planing. If you don't have somebody to show you, you'll just
                  have to
                  > work at till you get it. You'll get it.
                  >
                  > Craig Robert
                  > Lord Craig Robert le Luthier de Pierrepont OVO CAR
                  > Apprentice to Dame Alysea of Ashley
                  >
                  > medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com wrote:
                  > Date: Sun, 06 Nov 2005 18:11:37 -0000
                  > From: "lawrence_djd" <teffendar@h...>
                  > Subject: Cleaning up endgrain
                  >
                  > I've been working on a few projects in the past week, and run into the
                  > same problem on all of them. I spend more than half of my time on a
                  > given project trying to clean up endgrain. I'm trying to work only
                  > with tools I can document to the 15th century, which means that the
                  > only things I have found useful for this task are chisels and files.
                  > Does anyone have any suggestions as to ways I could make this task
                  > easier without using OOP methods?
                  >
                  > Laurence of Skraengham
                  > Baronial College of Tor Aerie
                  > Kingdom on Northshield
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                  > --
                  > YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
                  >
                  > a.. Visit your group "medievalsawdust" on the web.
                  >
                  > b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
                  > medievalsawdust-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
                  >
                  > c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
                  > Service.
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                  > --
                  >
                • Conal O'hAirt Jim Hart
                  What about a finishing scraper with a fresh burr? I m asking, not advising...... ... Baron Conal O hAirt / Jim Hart Aude Aliquid Dignum Dare Something Worthy
                  Message 8 of 13 , Nov 8, 2005
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                    What about a finishing scraper with a fresh burr?

                    I'm asking, not advising......



                    --- kjworz@... wrote:

                    >
                    > Another tip:
                    >
                    > If you can, skew the blade at an angle to the line
                    > of planing, as the angle provides even more slicing
                    > action vis scraping/crushing action.
                    >
                    > Old time expensive shooting boards often had a
                    > shooting plane with a skewed angle built into the
                    > bed. If you have oodles of money and a lot of time
                    > to hunt one down you could go that route, but I
                    > doubt it is worth the effort for you. You can get
                    > good results with the everyday tools that all the
                    > tips that have been provided and a small bit of
                    > skill.
                    >
                    > Are skewed planes blades Period? Probably not. I
                    > have heard of no example extant. Is skewed planing
                    > technique Period? Probably. No evidence confirming
                    > either way.
                    >
                    >
                    > --
                    > -Chris Schwartz
                    > Silver Spring, MD
                    >
                    >
                    > To add on to this topic, here's a few things I
                    > learned this weekend:
                    > - Make sure your plane sole is well flattened.
                    > - Sharpen to blade until it splits photons.
                    > - Set the cap iron (Provided it has one) a hair's
                    > breadth from the edge of the blade.
                    > - Close down the mouth so that it is only slightly
                    > wider than the thickest shaving you want to take.
                    >
                    > Breakout on the far end of the stroke will not be a
                    > problem if you back up the work with a stop block.
                    > A shooting board will make this much easier.
                    >
                    > A well tuned plane can take a shaving from any wood
                    > in any direction. I saw this with my own eyes, and
                    > have little doubt that I can replicate the feat.
                    >
                    > Charles Joiner
                    > Caid
                    > -----Original Message-----
                    > From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                    > [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
                    > Craig Robert Pierpont
                    > Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 11:21 AM
                    > To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                    > Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain
                    >
                    >
                    > Laurence,
                    > Use a sharp low angled block plans set to take a
                    > very fine cut.
                    > The grain will split when the cut runs off the
                    > edge of the board so you will have to work from both
                    > ends of your board toward the center or cut a small
                    > chamfer on the corner toward which the plane is
                    > going before planing the end grain.
                    > It may be helpful to make narrow cuts working
                    > across the end of the board from one side to the
                    > other.
                    > Your first cuts will be hit and miss but once
                    > you are below the rough stuff, you should be able to
                    > take a cut that will leave the surface almost shiny.
                    > The way you handle the plane will be quite a bit
                    > different from normal edge planing. If you don't
                    > have somebody to show you, you'll just have to work
                    > at till you get it. You'll get it.
                    >
                    > Craig Robert
                    > Lord Craig Robert le Luthier de Pierrepont OVO CAR
                    > Apprentice to Dame Alysea of Ashley
                    >
                    > medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com wrote:
                    > Date: Sun, 06 Nov 2005 18:11:37 -0000
                    > From: "lawrence_djd" <teffendar@...>
                    > Subject: Cleaning up endgrain
                    >
                    > I've been working on a few projects in the past
                    > week, and run into the
                    > same problem on all of them. I spend more than half
                    > of my time on a
                    > given project trying to clean up endgrain. I'm
                    > trying to work only
                    > with tools I can document to the 15th century, which
                    > means that the
                    > only things I have found useful for this task are
                    > chisels and files.
                    > Does anyone have any suggestions as to ways I could
                    > make this task
                    > easier without using OOP methods?
                    >
                    > Laurence of Skraengham
                    > Baronial College of Tor Aerie
                    > Kingdom on Northshield
                    >
                    >


                    Baron Conal O'hAirt / Jim Hart

                    Aude Aliquid Dignum
                    ' Dare Something Worthy '



                    __________________________________
                    Yahoo! FareChase: Search multiple travel sites in one click.
                    http://farechase.yahoo.com
                  • Dragano Abbruciati
                    OH, I like that. It also places the blade at an angle for an easier shave. Thanks for sharing. Dragano michael_recchione wrote:
                    Message 9 of 13 , Nov 9, 2005
                    • 0 Attachment
                      OH, I like that.  It also places the blade at an angle for an easier shave.  Thanks for sharing.
                       
                      Dragano

                      michael_recchione <michael_recchione@...> wrote:
                      A shooting board is a necessary piece of equipment if you don't want
                      to use sandpaper.  Here's a link to plans for a ramped shooting board
                      and also some plans for other types of shooting boards.  Making a
                      simple, non-ramped one is about an hours work or less.

                      http://www.amgron.clara.net/planingpoints/rampedboard/rampindex.htm

                      - Mike

                      --- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, "Chuck Phillips" <chuck@c...>
                      wrote:
                      >
                      > Chris;
                      >
                      > I didn't mean to imply that people should go out and hunt down one
                      of the
                      > few remaining cast iron shooting boards.  Part of the reason those
                      things
                      > are so rare is that most people saw no reason to buy one in the
                      first place.
                      > All you really need is a couple of boards.  Make one about 4 inches
                      wide,
                      > which is wide enough to support your work.  Make a second board about as
                      > much wider as the cheek of your plane.  For most of use, that come
                      to about
                      > 7 inches.  Both of these are 2-3 feet long.  Fasten the two boards
                      together,
                      > stacked on their wide faces.  Add a stop block to the top piece, and
                      Bob's
                      > your uncle.
                      >
                      > It is entirely plausible that shooting boards fall into the category of
                      > "everyday tools".  The reason that few, if any, wooden ones have
                      survived is
                      > that they don't look like "tools", and so most were likely pitched
                      into the
                      > wood pile along with all those transitional planes.
                      >
                      > Charles Joiner
                      > Caid
                      >   -----Original Message-----
                      >   From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                      > [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of kjworz@c...
                      >   Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2005 4:59 AM
                      >   To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com; medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                      >   Subject: RE: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >   Another tip:
                      >
                      >   If you can, skew the blade at an angle to the line of planing, as the
                      > angle provides even more slicing action vis scraping/crushing action.
                      >
                      >   Old time expensive shooting boards often had a shooting plane with a
                      > skewed angle built into the bed.  If you have oodles of money and a
                      lot of
                      > time to hunt one down you could go that route, but I doubt it is
                      worth the
                      > effort for you.  You can get good results with the everyday tools
                      that all
                      > the tips that have been provided and a small bit of skill.
                      >
                      >   Are skewed planes blades Period?  Probably not.  I have heard of no
                      > example extant.  Is skewed planing technique Period?  Probably.  No
                      evidence
                      > confirming either way.
                      >
                      >
                      >   --
                      >   -Chris Schwartz
                      >   Silver Spring, MD
                      >
                      >
                      >   To add on to this topic, here's a few things I learned this weekend:
                      >   - Make sure your plane sole is well flattened.
                      >   - Sharpen to blade until it splits photons.
                      >   - Set the cap iron (Provided it has one) a hair's breadth from the
                      edge of
                      > the blade.
                      >   - Close down the mouth so that it is only slightly wider than the
                      thickest
                      > shaving you want to take.
                      >
                      >   Breakout on the far end of the stroke will not be a problem if you
                      back up
                      > the work with a stop block.  A shooting board will make this much
                      easier.
                      >
                      >   A well tuned plane can take a shaving from any wood in any
                      direction.  I
                      > saw this with my own eyes, and have little doubt that I can
                      replicate the
                      > feat.
                      >
                      >   Charles Joiner
                      >   Caid
                      >   -----Original Message-----
                      >   From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                      > [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Craig Robert
                      Pierpont
                      >   Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 11:21 AM
                      >   To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                      >   Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain
                      >
                      >
                      >   Laurence,
                      >       Use a sharp low angled block plans set to take a very fine cut.
                      >       The grain will split when the cut runs off the edge of the
                      board so
                      > you will have to work from both ends of your board toward the center
                      or cut
                      > a small chamfer on the corner toward which the plane is going before
                      planing
                      > the end grain.
                      >       It may be helpful to make narrow cuts working across the end
                      of the
                      > board from one side to the other.
                      >       Your first cuts will be hit and miss but once you are below
                      the rough
                      > stuff, you should be able to take a cut that will leave the surface
                      almost
                      > shiny.
                      >       The way you handle the plane will be quite a bit different
                      from normal
                      > edge planing. If you don't have somebody to show you, you'll just
                      have to
                      > work at till you get it. You'll get it.
                      >
                      >   Craig Robert
                      >   Lord Craig Robert le Luthier de Pierrepont OVO CAR
                      >   Apprentice to Dame Alysea of Ashley
                      >
                      >   medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com wrote:
                      >   Date: Sun, 06 Nov 2005 18:11:37 -0000
                      >      From: "lawrence_djd" <teffendar@h...>
                      >   Subject: Cleaning up endgrain
                      >
                      >   I've been working on a few projects in the past week, and run into the
                      >   same problem on all of them.  I spend more than half of my time on a
                      >   given project trying to clean up endgrain.  I'm trying to work only
                      >   with tools I can document to the 15th century, which means that the
                      >   only things I have found useful for this task are chisels and files.
                      >   Does anyone have any suggestions as to ways I could make this task
                      >   easier without using OOP methods?
                      >
                      >   Laurence of Skraengham
                      >   Baronial College of Tor Aerie
                      >   Kingdom on Northshield
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >
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                      >     a..  Visit your group "medievalsawdust" on the web.
                      >
                      >     b..  To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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                      >     c..  Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
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                    • Chuck Phillips
                      There are two issues with using a scraper. First, the edge is completely unconstrained, so that unless you have godlike skill you will not get the work truly
                      Message 10 of 13 , Nov 9, 2005
                      • 0 Attachment
                        There are two issues with using a scraper.  First, the edge is completely unconstrained, so that unless you have godlike skill you will not get the work truly flat.  Secondly, a scraper doesn't leave as clean a surface as a plane.  Better than sanding, but still not as nice as a plane.
                        -----Original Message-----
                        From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Conal O'hAirt Jim Hart
                        Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2005 2:06 PM
                        To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                        Subject: RE: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain

                        What about a finishing scraper with a fresh burr?

                        I'm asking, not advising......



                        --- kjworz@... wrote:

                        >
                        > Another tip:
                        >
                        > If you can, skew the blade at an angle to the line
                        > of planing, as the angle provides even more slicing
                        > action vis scraping/crushing action.
                        >
                        > Old time expensive shooting boards often had a
                        > shooting plane with a skewed angle built into the
                        > bed.  If you have oodles of money and a lot of time
                        > to hunt one down you could go that route, but I
                        > doubt it is worth the effort for you.  You can get
                        > good results with the everyday tools that all the
                        > tips that have been provided and a small bit of
                        > skill.
                        >
                        > Are skewed planes blades Period?  Probably not.  I
                        > have heard of no example extant.  Is skewed planing
                        > technique Period?  Probably.  No evidence confirming
                        > either way.
                        >
                        >
                        > --
                        > -Chris Schwartz
                        > Silver Spring, MD
                        >
                        >
                        > To add on to this topic, here's a few things I
                        > learned this weekend:
                        > - Make sure your plane sole is well flattened.
                        > - Sharpen to blade until it splits photons.
                        > - Set the cap iron (Provided it has one) a hair's
                        > breadth from the edge of the blade.
                        > - Close down the mouth so that it is only slightly
                        > wider than the thickest shaving you want to take.

                        > Breakout on the far end of the stroke will not be a
                        > problem if you back up the work with a stop block.
                        > A shooting board will make this much easier.

                        > A well tuned plane can take a shaving from any wood
                        > in any direction.  I saw this with my own eyes, and
                        > have little doubt that I can replicate the feat. 

                        > Charles Joiner
                        > Caid
                        > -----Original Message-----
                        > From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                        > [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
                        > Craig Robert Pierpont
                        > Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 11:21 AM
                        > To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                        > Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain
                        >
                        >
                        > Laurence,
                        >     Use a sharp low angled block plans set to take a
                        > very fine cut.
                        >     The grain will split when the cut runs off the
                        > edge of the board so you will have to work from both
                        > ends of your board toward the center or cut a small
                        > chamfer on the corner toward which the plane is
                        > going before planing the end grain.
                        >     It may be helpful to make narrow cuts working
                        > across the end of the board from one side to the
                        > other.
                        >     Your first cuts will be hit and miss but once
                        > you are below the rough stuff, you should be able to
                        > take a cut that will leave the surface almost shiny.
                        >     The way you handle the plane will be quite a bit
                        > different from normal edge planing. If you don't
                        > have somebody to show you, you'll just have to work
                        > at till you get it. You'll get it.
                        >
                        > Craig Robert
                        > Lord Craig Robert le Luthier de Pierrepont OVO CAR
                        > Apprentice to Dame Alysea of Ashley
                        >
                        > medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com wrote:
                        >  Date: Sun, 06 Nov 2005 18:11:37 -0000
                        >    From: "lawrence_djd" <teffendar@...>
                        > Subject: Cleaning up endgrain
                        >
                        > I've been working on a few projects in the past
                        > week, and run into the
                        > same problem on all of them.  I spend more than half
                        > of my time on a
                        > given project trying to clean up endgrain.  I'm
                        > trying to work only
                        > with tools I can document to the 15th century, which
                        > means that the
                        > only things I have found useful for this task are
                        > chisels and files.
                        > Does anyone have any suggestions as to ways I could
                        > make this task
                        > easier without using OOP methods?
                        >
                        > Laurence of Skraengham
                        > Baronial College of Tor Aerie
                        > Kingdom on Northshield
                        >
                        >


                        Baron Conal O'hAirt / Jim Hart

                           Aude Aliquid Dignum
                             ' Dare Something Worthy '


                                   
                        __________________________________
                        Yahoo! FareChase: Search multiple travel sites in one click.
                        http://farechase.yahoo.com
                      • James W. Pratt, Jr.
                        The other side er..edge is that a scaper will cut knots and curly grain better than a plane. There is such a thing as a scraper plane and a Stanley #70 I
                        Message 11 of 13 , Nov 9, 2005
                        • 0 Attachment
                          The other side er..edge is that  a scaper will cut knots and curly grain better than a plane.  There is such a thing as a scraper plane and a Stanley #70 I think.. scraper thing that looks a lot like a spoke shave only with a big flat face.
                           
                          James Cunningham

                          There are two issues with using a scraper.  First, the edge is completely unconstrained, so that unless you have godlike skill you will not get the work truly flat.  Secondly, a scraper doesn't leave as clean a surface as a plane.  Better than sanding, but still not as nice as a plane.
                          -----Original Message-----
                          From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Conal O'hAirt Jim Hart
                          Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2005 2:06 PM
                          To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                          Subject: RE: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain

                          What about a finishing scraper with a fresh burr?

                          I'm asking, not advising......



                          --- kjworz@... wrote:

                          >
                          > Another tip:
                          >
                          > If you can, skew the blade at an angle to the line
                          > of planing, as the angle provides even more slicing
                          > action vis scraping/crushing action.
                          >
                          > Old time expensive shooting boards often had a
                          > shooting plane with a skewed angle built into the
                          > bed.  If you have oodles of money and a lot of time
                          > to hunt one down you could go that route, but I
                          > doubt it is worth the effort for you.  You can get
                          > good results with the everyday tools that all the
                          > tips that have been provided and a small bit of
                          > skill.
                          >
                          > Are skewed planes blades Period?  Probably not.  I
                          > have heard of no example extant.  Is skewed planing
                          > technique Period?  Probably.  No evidence confirming
                          > either way.
                          >
                          >
                          > --
                          > -Chris Schwartz
                          > Silver Spring, MD
                          >
                          >
                          > To add on to this topic, here's a few things I
                          > learned this weekend:
                          > - Make sure your plane sole is well flattened.
                          > - Sharpen to blade until it splits photons.
                          > - Set the cap iron (Provided it has one) a hair's
                          > breadth from the edge of the blade.
                          > - Close down the mouth so that it is only slightly
                          > wider than the thickest shaving you want to take.

                          > Breakout on the far end of the stroke will not be a
                          > problem if you back up the work with a stop block.
                          > A shooting board will make this much easier.

                          > A well tuned plane can take a shaving from any wood
                          > in any direction.  I saw this with my own eyes, and
                          > have little doubt that I can replicate the feat. 

                          > Charles Joiner
                          > Caid
                          > -----Original Message-----
                          > From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                          > [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
                          > Craig Robert Pierpont
                          > Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 11:21 AM
                          > To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                          > Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain
                          >
                          >
                          > Laurence,
                          >     Use a sharp low angled block plans set to take a
                          > very fine cut.
                          >     The grain will split when the cut runs off the
                          > edge of the board so you will have to work from both
                          > ends of your board toward the center or cut a small
                          > chamfer on the corner toward which the plane is
                          > going before planing the end grain.
                          >     It may be helpful to make narrow cuts working
                          > across the end of the board from one side to the
                          > other.
                          >     Your first cuts will be hit and miss but once
                          > you are below the rough stuff, you should be able to
                          > take a cut that will leave the surface almost shiny.
                          >     The way you handle the plane will be quite a bit
                          > different from normal edge planing. If you don't
                          > have somebody to show you, you'll just have to work
                          > at till you get it. You'll get it.
                          >
                          > Craig Robert
                          > Lord Craig Robert le Luthier de Pierrepont OVO CAR
                          > Apprentice to Dame Alysea of Ashley
                          >
                          > medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com wrote:
                          >  Date: Sun, 06 Nov 2005 18:11:37 -0000
                          >    From: "lawrence_djd" <teffendar@...>
                          > Subject: Cleaning up endgrain
                          >
                          > I've been working on a few projects in the past
                          > week, and run into the
                          > same problem on all of them.  I spend more than half
                          > of my time on a
                          > given project trying to clean up endgrain.  I'm
                          > trying to work only
                          > with tools I can document to the 15th century, which
                          > means that the
                          > only things I have found useful for this task are
                          > chisels and files.
                          > Does anyone have any suggestions as to ways I could
                          > make this task
                          > easier without using OOP methods?
                          >
                          > Laurence of Skraengham
                          > Baronial College of Tor Aerie
                          > Kingdom on Northshield
                          >
                          >


                          Baron Conal O'hAirt / Jim Hart

                             Aude Aliquid Dignum
                               ' Dare Something Worthy '


                                     
                          __________________________________
                          Yahoo! FareChase: Search multiple travel sites in one click.
                          http://farechase.yahoo.com
                        • Chuck Phillips
                          I think the tool you re describing is the Stanley #12. The #70 is more like a scraper on a stick. Charles Joiner Caid ... From:
                          Message 12 of 13 , Nov 9, 2005
                          • 0 Attachment
                            I think the tool you're describing is the Stanley #12.  The #70 is more like a scraper on a stick.
                             
                            Charles Joiner
                            Caid
                            -----Original Message-----
                            From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of James W. Pratt, Jr.
                            Sent: Wednesday, November 09, 2005 5:52 PM
                            To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                            Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain

                            The other side er..edge is that  a scaper will cut knots and curly grain better than a plane.  There is such a thing as a scraper plane and a Stanley #70 I think.. scraper thing that looks a lot like a spoke shave only with a big flat face.
                             
                            James Cunningham

                            There are two issues with using a scraper.  First, the edge is completely unconstrained, so that unless you have godlike skill you will not get the work truly flat.  Secondly, a scraper doesn't leave as clean a surface as a plane.  Better than sanding, but still not as nice as a plane.
                            -----Original Message-----
                            From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Conal O'hAirt Jim Hart
                            Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2005 2:06 PM
                            To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                            Subject: RE: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain

                            What about a finishing scraper with a fresh burr?

                            I'm asking, not advising......



                            --- kjworz@... wrote:

                            >
                            > Another tip:
                            >
                            > If you can, skew the blade at an angle to the line
                            > of planing, as the angle provides even more slicing
                            > action vis scraping/crushing action.
                            >
                            > Old time expensive shooting boards often had a
                            > shooting plane with a skewed angle built into the
                            > bed.  If you have oodles of money and a lot of time
                            > to hunt one down you could go that route, but I
                            > doubt it is worth the effort for you.  You can get
                            > good results with the everyday tools that all the
                            > tips that have been provided and a small bit of
                            > skill.
                            >
                            > Are skewed planes blades Period?  Probably not.  I
                            > have heard of no example extant.  Is skewed planing
                            > technique Period?  Probably.  No evidence confirming
                            > either way.
                            >
                            >
                            > --
                            > -Chris Schwartz
                            > Silver Spring, MD
                            >
                            >
                            > To add on to this topic, here's a few things I
                            > learned this weekend:
                            > - Make sure your plane sole is well flattened.
                            > - Sharpen to blade until it splits photons.
                            > - Set the cap iron (Provided it has one) a hair's
                            > breadth from the edge of the blade.
                            > - Close down the mouth so that it is only slightly
                            > wider than the thickest shaving you want to take.

                            > Breakout on the far end of the stroke will not be a
                            > problem if you back up the work with a stop block.
                            > A shooting board will make this much easier.

                            > A well tuned plane can take a shaving from any wood
                            > in any direction.  I saw this with my own eyes, and
                            > have little doubt that I can replicate the feat. 

                            > Charles Joiner
                            > Caid
                            > -----Original Message-----
                            > From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                            > [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
                            > Craig Robert Pierpont
                            > Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 11:21 AM
                            > To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                            > Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain
                            >
                            >
                            > Laurence,
                            >     Use a sharp low angled block plans set to take a
                            > very fine cut.
                            >     The grain will split when the cut runs off the
                            > edge of the board so you will have to work from both
                            > ends of your board toward the center or cut a small
                            > chamfer on the corner toward which the plane is
                            > going before planing the end grain.
                            >     It may be helpful to make narrow cuts working
                            > across the end of the board from one side to the
                            > other.
                            >     Your first cuts will be hit and miss but once
                            > you are below the rough stuff, you should be able to
                            > take a cut that will leave the surface almost shiny.
                            >     The way you handle the plane will be quite a bit
                            > different from normal edge planing. If you don't
                            > have somebody to show you, you'll just have to work
                            > at till you get it. You'll get it.
                            >
                            > Craig Robert
                            > Lord Craig Robert le Luthier de Pierrepont OVO CAR
                            > Apprentice to Dame Alysea of Ashley
                            >
                            > medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com wrote:
                            >  Date: Sun, 06 Nov 2005 18:11:37 -0000
                            >    From: "lawrence_djd" <teffendar@...>
                            > Subject: Cleaning up endgrain
                            >
                            > I've been working on a few projects in the past
                            > week, and run into the
                            > same problem on all of them.  I spend more than half
                            > of my time on a
                            > given project trying to clean up endgrain.  I'm
                            > trying to work only
                            > with tools I can document to the 15th century, which
                            > means that the
                            > only things I have found useful for this task are
                            > chisels and files.
                            > Does anyone have any suggestions as to ways I could
                            > make this task
                            > easier without using OOP methods?
                            >
                            > Laurence of Skraengham
                            > Baronial College of Tor Aerie
                            > Kingdom on Northshield
                            >
                            >


                            Baron Conal O'hAirt / Jim Hart

                               Aude Aliquid Dignum
                                 ' Dare Something Worthy '


                                       
                            __________________________________
                            Yahoo! FareChase: Search multiple travel sites in one click.
                            http://farechase.yahoo.com
                          • michael_recchione
                            Scrapers don t work particularly well on endgrain, and have issues with softer woods in general. In more recent times, bevel-up low angle planes have been
                            Message 13 of 13 , Nov 10, 2005
                            • 0 Attachment
                              Scrapers don't work particularly well on endgrain, and have issues with
                              softer woods in general. In more recent times, bevel-up low angle
                              planes have been touted as the thing to use on end-grain, and they
                              certainly work well (e.g. a Stanley 65 or 61 1/2 or any of a number of
                              the new offerings from Lee Valley). But they're almost equally
                              certainly not period in the sense that bedding and supporting an iron
                              at a very low angle is very difficult to do with a wooden plane body
                              and the resulting plane is extremely fragile. The good news is, as
                              someone else pointed out, any plane with a sharp iron and set for a
                              fine cut handles end-grain just fine. Again, as was pointed out,
                              skewing the plane as you approach the wood lowers the effective cutting
                              angle and was almost certainly a period technique (it would be hard to
                              imagine that it wasn't - it just amounts to holding the plane at a
                              different angle with your hands as you push it).

                              So, if you're determined to do this in a period way, use a wooden
                              bodied smoother set for a fine cut (size of mouth opening is irrelevant
                              for endgrain), and skew it relative to the work. To prevent break out,
                              either use a backing block, a chamfer or work towards the middle from
                              either side.

                              - Mike
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