Re: [medievalsawdust] Re: was honing a draw knife / now sharpening gouges.
- Hey Magnus
>> Inherited syndrome and too much manualrepetitive motion making a large
variety of things (furniture, plastics, cabinets, woodwork) disabled me
years earlier than it should have. <<Yea but it gave ya' the time to be a great asset to the rest of us as far as research goes! I look forward to those things that pop up in this e-mail or that on this list or that and then following the clues you sprinkle about or just reading the cool stuff you put up. Hat's off to ya'!!!
>> A long time ago I saw a demonstration on a program ofhow flintlock
rifle reproductions were stained. I cannot remember the chemical used.
It was applied to the wood and a red hot iron was waved over the
surface. As heat hit the wet wood it turned a lovely shade of brown
and the curly grain stood out in contrast. <<You may be thinking of an ammonia solution. I've heard cherry reacts just to heat but it has to be evenly applied and I THINK its what's used on maple.
>> Perhaps someone here knows? Perhaps I have the wrongmemory of the
wood type used and it was a reaction with tannic acid and rust in
solution responding to heat. Walnut has a lot of tannic acid for
example. Used to give me purple hands for days. <<A mixture of vinegar and rust (let it sit and 'cook' for a while I find it makes a better solution) when applied to fresh sanded oak turns the oak a nifty black color. Haven't tried it on walnut hummm got some boards in the garage anyway. With the vinegar and rust mixture (I've forgotten the chemical properties of the mess but I'm not 'chemically inclined' so I'd probably botch it anyway ) you don't need heat. Good clean surface spread it on wait a while and voila' a nice black stain. Of course leave an iron hinge on an oak surface and you'll get a nifty 'blackish' image of it as well..Chas.
- A big drawknife is just the thing for taking the bark off and "working down"
the back to single grain layer. Mine is a foot from handle to handle and
the blade 2 inches wide and 1/4 inch. But it is not a spoke shave.
> Don't most people use a froe for this? I've even seen axes used.
> Not to make fun at all but I have never read of using a drawknife for
> -splitting out a bow- I would think it's possible but a bit too
> light a tool for splitting with. For getting to the desired layers
> or carefully taking the bark off I can definitely see using a
> drawknife. For finishing to grain levels scrapers, rasps and files
> are generally used.
> There is a special type of multiple blade scraper that is used
> now by many bowyers to follow growth rings. Generally these things
> have about four blades set at straight or slightly skewed angles
> to each other and it is used like a spokeshave in practice. This
> deals with irregular grain quite well.
> I suppose I should point out that I have been collecting articles,
> magazines and books on archery and crossbows since the 60's in
> English and German on most types of archery equipment. I used to
> teach archery to students and summer camp counselors and compete
> in tournaments with clubs/teams prior to my SCA days. I attended
> the NAA instructor's course in Pennsylvania back around 1968 or 9.
> My mentor was a three time world F.I.T.A. champion, O.K. Smathers of
> Brevard, NC, USA, prior to sitting on the first U.S. Olympic Committee
> when it finally became an Olympic Sport around 1972 or so. I was
> from nearby Hendersonville, and we shot with clubs in Asheville and
> Brevard, and I later shot with clubs and on the university team in
> Raleigh, NC.
> While I was a good teacher I never would have been a champion shot.
> I taught eight styles at one time, and shot five in competitions.
> Thirty years later I have trouble recalling all the names of the
> styles now. I will buy just about anything remotely related to
> historical archery.
> Unfortunately I eventually developed a muscular/nervous system malady
> that has left me unable to shoot anything but a windlass-drawn crossbow
> for more than a shot or two.
> Inherited syndrome and too much manual repetitive motion making a large
> variety of things (furniture, plastics, cabinets, woodwork) disabled me
> years earlier than it should have. The fact that I can't do it has not
> stopped my interest in archery. It has answered my wonderment over
> why I still shook a bit regardless of shooting bows 20 hours a week.
> I shake now frequently. My scores were usually about 18 points less
> than some of the casual scores of the champions I shot with.
> About 278 vs 296+ out of 300.
> > Also in making baskets a frow or draw knife is used to split out
> > the strips of wood and again you want to split the wood not cut it.
> With white oak here (VA-NC, USA) the bark is taken off (generally
> with a spud) and then the still green tree trunk is pounded with the
> poll of an axe which is a labor intensive way of separating out the
> growth rings. To keep the thickness constant for making baskets a
> small rectangular box like tool with an adjustable thickness knife-edge
> is used. This tool is only used in basketmaking and derives from the
> ones used in England - most English crafts books which include chapters
> on basketmaking depict them. I am pretty sure Vanishing Crafts by
> John Seymour does. I know some of my basketmaking books do.
> For finer withes the stuff is often simply pulled between a leather
> pad on the thigh and a sharp knife edge held in the hand.
> > Queen Ann leg .... sharper the better.
> Quite true. An awful lot of the 18th C furniture contains curly
> grain like maple in it too.
> A long time ago I saw a demonstration on a program of how flintlock
> rifle reproductions were stained. I cannot remember the chemical used.
> It was applied to the wood and a red hot iron was waved over the
> surface. As heat hit the wet wood it turned a lovely shade of brown
> and the curly grain stood out in contrast. This is the only time I
> have seen/heard of a stain being applied in this manner. I am fairly
> sure it must be a very old method but none of my finishing books
> mentions it. It may have been a tannic acid/iron oxide solution
> reaction in the wood, but maple doesn't contain tannic acid, or does it?
> I know Maples didn't stain my hands like wood that does like Oaks, and
> I worked many thousands of board feet of it. I made a great deal
> of furniture for a living at one time. A good thousand + pieces and
> hundreds of cabinets, etc. I expected to still be doing it. Somebody
> up there has a very peculiar sense of humor.
> Perhaps someone here knows? Perhaps I have the wrong memory of the
> wood type used and it was a reaction with tannic acid and rust in
> solution responding to heat. Walnut has a lot of tannic acid for
> example. Used to give me purple hands for days.
> > James Cunningham
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