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Re: on the "salad oil" finish

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  • gameresearch
    ... Yup, his book is circa 1680 here s more of the quote to put it in context. Lastly the hold either a piece of seal-skin, or Dutch Reeds [aka Horsetail]
    Message 1 of 8 , Apr 26, 2005
      --- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, "Tom Rettie" <tom@h...> wrote:
      >
      >
      > The reference was to Joseph Moxon, who is about a hundred years post-
      > SCA period (1627-1700). His description is a beeswax base that is then
      > buffed with salad oil. Regardless of the oil used, it wouldn't be a
      > durable finish, as the oil is only a surface sheen on the wax, it
      > doesn't penetrate the wood.
      >
      > If you use raw walnut or linseed oil, expect very long curing times.
      > There are many period recipes for boiled linseed oil, though modern
      > commercial oils use driers instead of boiling.
      >
      > (The other) Fin.
      > Tom R.

      Yup, his book is circa 1680 here's more of the quote to put it in context.

      "Lastly the hold either a piece of seal-skin, or Dutch Reeds" [aka
      Horsetail] "(whose outer Skin, of filme somewhat finely cuts) pretty
      hard against the work, and so make it smooth enough to polish.
      Hard wood they polish with beez-wax, viz. by holding bees-wax against
      it, till it have sufficiently toucht it all over; and press it hard
      into it by hard the edge of a flat piece of hard wood made sizable and
      suitable to the work made sizable and suitable to work upon, as the
      work is going about. Then they set a gloss on it with a very dry
      woolen rag, lightly smeared with salad oyl.

      But Ivory they polish with chalk and water, and afterwards dry it with
      a woollen rag, and a light touch of sallad oyl; which at last they rub
      off again with a dry woollen rag, and so set a gloss on it."

      Chas
      --
      MacGregor Historic Games
      http;//historicgames.com
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