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Re: [MedievalSawdust] working with PC Bow & Frame saw

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  • Haraldr Bassi (yahoogroups)
    I respectfully disagree. It really isn t as black and white as you make it sound. First the frame saw was used throughout period. It was used (and is still to
    Message 1 of 4 , Dec 7, 2004
      I respectfully disagree. It really isn't as black and white as you make it
      sound. First the frame saw was used throughout period. It was used (and is
      still to this day) for fine detail work a]l the way to rough cuts of green
      wood. What is different between each of those spectrums is how the blades
      are setup for each specific purpose.

      For someone to understand why their frame saw (or any saw actually) isn't
      cutting the way they expect you need to look at the mechanics of how a saw
      cuts wood. The angle of the teeth and the width between teeth and whether
      the teeth are splayed out all contribute to how a saw will attack a piece
      of wood.

      A band saw is designed to attack wood using an always forward motion with
      a 90 degree offset from the wood fibers. Usually there is a very sharp
      tooth angle and little offset of teeth. A 7tpi blade moving at bandsaw
      speeds will have several teeth in contact with the wood at any given
      moment. For hand use, you will rarely have more than 3 teeth in contact
      until you are well into a piece of wood. You will rarely hit the right
      angle the blade was setup to handle and might well have a mess.

      For basic crosscutting in dry wood, you want something in the 10-15tpi
      range with teeth that are similar to a common push style crosscut saw. I
      was lucky to find fine tooth miter saw blades circa 1/75" wide by 16" long
      that make wonderful blades for my frame saws. I also was able to find huge
      bandsaw blades circa 10-14 tpi in 1.25" wide width on clearance at Grizzly
      for a small amount. I haven't used the bandsaw blades yet but expect the
      cut to be a little rougher than the high tooth count detail miter blades I
      am currently using. I was also able to get a 22tpi hacksaw blade with each
      miter blade so have the ability to file those teeth off and cut my own
      teeth with a file.

      Don't give up hope on a frame saw... it really can work very smoothly, you
      just need to have a blade that is intended for that type of use (or close
      enough to not make much difference). Watch for clearances of extra wide
      extra long high tpi bandsaw blades. Even if the teeth won't cut well for
      you, file the teeth off and make new ones. Unfortunately you can't easily
      refile a typical 1/2" or narrower blade. There just isn't enough meat to
      remove the old teeth and make new ones.

      For info on refiling a saw, look at most woodworking books from before
      1940. Turn of the century is even better, back then you were expected to
      refile your own saw regularly. There are interesting jigs you can make and
      special holding technology that was used in the 18th C. Once you master
      the basics you can push it back further. I'll try to remember to let the
      list know how my own experiments with making my own saw blades work out.

      Good luck,
      Haraldr



      On Sat, December 4, 2004 21:44, James W. Pratt, Jr. said:
      >
      > Frame and bow saws are for rough cutting ie: logs to boards or logs to
      firewood. To get a good crosscut in a 2x4 use a sharp 12-18 TPI
      crosscut
      > back/hand saw and then smooth with a low angle (very sharp)block plane.
      The
      > plane has to be able to pull a curle off of end grain oak.
      >
      > James Cunningham
      >
      >> I'm having a bit of a problem with my bow saw today. I suspect it's the
      blade I'm using as opposed to technique. I'm using a 7 TPI 3/8" wide
      section of band saw blade. That tooth pattern works fine on the frame
      saw but it's gruesome cross cutting - end grain (on a 2X4) looks
      terrible - lots of tear out along the edges - teeth grab and way too
      much force necessary to move the blade through the wood. Anyhow, my
      skill with a bow saw is limited so I thought I'd drop in here and find
      out from others what they are using. I have a page on my web site
      devoted to the Frame & Bow saw if your interested in looking at the
      mental/design/build process. Thanks
      >> Jerry Crawford
      >> http://home.comcast.net/~boondocker1/
      >> Yahoo! Groups Links
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      > Yahoo! Groups Links
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      --
      Dave Calafrancesco

      ... They got the library at Alexandria, they aren't getting mine!
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