RE: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Manesse Codex style chairs?
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I made a replica of the Oseberg Chair which is a bit earlier in period and Norwegian. Mine has mortice and tennon joints which go through the uprights and are pegged in place so it can be disassembled for packing away flat. The seat is a pinned together frame with cord cross weaving that drops in place so internal access is easy when assembled. A narrow ledge near the inside bottom allows an optional wooden panel to be dropped in to serve as a bottom shelf if needed for storage purposes ( like a small food cooler or posessions, clothing, etc.) above the surface - like the ground - that it may be sitting on when in use. The cross woven seat frame is covered with a cushion or folded cloak, blanket or other object. The original chair seemed to not be disassembled after the seat cording was installed and had hidden, mortice and tennon joints which were permanently pegged together.
This design could be adapted to the later chair design shown in the codex, by simply making the chair wider and raising the sides as needed. My chair has square corner posts instead of turned ones, but either shape would do the same job about as well. Round is just a bit trickier to get the mortices lined up right.
---In firstname.lastname@example.org, <email@example.com> wrote:Ask and Ye shall find.
I think what is illustrated is first cousin to one of the chairs in the first two blog posts at:
http://www.daviddfriedman.com/Medieval/Misc10/Misc10.pdf pages 246 - 249
- look at the 3 legged stool for some ideas that can be adapted.
If you want to go down the knock-down path, you could make one as 4 panels and a drop in seat, with two solidly fixed panels - your choice of front & back or both sides. Two of the two panels would have long tennons which are held in mortises by tusk tennons - this is something that is NOT seen in any of the surviving turned throne/chairs that I am aware of, but would fit the 'Creative' of SCA.
If you don't have access to a lathe (or a wood turner) you could make the leg colums from hardwood dowels using the largest diameter you can source for the leg colums and a size or two smaller for the horizontalrails. Glue on suitable drawer or curtain rail knobs for the finials and use good quality ply for infill panels after drilling and sawing out pleasing tracery. You would probably also find it handy to make a simple clamping jig to hold the various sized dowels in a set orientation for drilling the many cross holes and it would be fairly easy to make it so you could also use it with a router to make the grooves for the ply panels if you descide to use them.
Brusi of Orkney
On 07-Oct-13 4:16 PM, Scot Eddy wrote:
I'm interested in building a chair I found in the Manesse Codex (see URLs below)
the yellow one on the rightthe yellow and red one on the leftI've looked around and I can't find anything extant that might be it. Part of me wants to make it a box/storage chair. Another part of me wants to make it collapsible.Any ideas?Thanks.Juan CarlosAnsteorra
- View Sourcecopper tubes good idea. I have a source for all kinds of tubing. I was thinking of my plumbing tools for rounding the edges of the ends of the tubes, I might try a flaring tools. And someday,, I will get my old metal lathe back up and running, just needs new belts,, and some rust removal,, any maybe a new motor. I grew up in a screw machine shop as a kid.
From: duke_henrik <duke_henrik@...>
To: medievalsawdust <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Sent: Mon, Oct 21, 2013 2:08 pm
Subject: RE: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Re: bed that folds into a box.Tubes for bolts - great idea. I hadn't thought of that in such a context ( though I have used them for use on hollow applications such as hollowcore doors, for instance). I might add that I often use copper rivets instead of bolts, when permanently assembling wooden projects, since copper is softer than steel yet harder than any wood species, except perhaps ironwood -(?) and is easy to pien into a secure fastening with washers under each end of the rivet, yet protrudes much less than a nut does, and never comes off. I use grounding copper wire, which is available at most hardware stores and comes in diameters up to 1/4inch and is sold by the foot at inexpensive prices. Copper tubing is also available in most bolt sizes and can be forged to slightly larger diameters if needed by use of a tapered punch tool or similar steel bar, if needed. Steel tubing works well also, but unless stainless or galvanized may rust in an undesirable manner, depending on the applica tion. Generally copper is not only more period than galvanized or stainless, but is overall easier to work and has a pleasing color as well as patina.Henrik+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
---In email@example.com, <firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote:Thank you good Master Avery,,, still lucky to be married,,, giggle are not we all.
before making such a bed,,, I would definitly plan everything out very very carefully. Including how to load, move and reload it. The devil is in the Details. I have the skills, I have the tools,,, well one can always justify more tools. But thanks for the warnings. As a Theatre Designer,,, I always consider, if the fat lady sings on it and I am underneath it what will happen to me. I have seen things crack or break that we sit around afterwards and try and figure out how. I am not as concerned with weight as strength, finding the correct hardware etc. bolts verses screws, Adding tubes for bolts with washers added to relieve stress on wood. I still remember when my first trebuchet, fired backwards through my car.. Ahh those were the days my friends.