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Re: [MedievalSawdust] A stool from a tree done !

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  • Peter Ellison
    From the bit that I have been reading the drawbore joints where generally not glued because they are strong enough as is. Although after 500 years of use it
    Message 1 of 7 , Aug 22 7:15 AM
      From the bit that I have been reading the drawbore joints where generally not glued because they are strong enough as is.  Although after 500 years of use it might be hard to tell if they ever had glue in them.  Other joints like this I have made don't need the glue, but on a workbench I glued 1" thick mortises because getting that last little bit of stability is worth it :-)

      One of the comments from Peter Follansbee is that you don't need to make both shoulders of the tenon flush with the mortice.  It is faster not to and it does not add enough additional strength to justify the effort.  I would suggest not doing that on the lower stretchers because when you look down on the stool you see gaps that offend the maker of the stool.  On the next one I will be doing that on the upper boards to save time.

      If you have ever thought of doing this yourself I'd recommend strongly this book, there is a good concise history, talk about tools and they authors step through the process in pretty good detail.

      Peter Petrovitch.

      On Thu, Aug 22, 2013 at 5:50 AM, Jerry Harder <geraldgoodwine@...> wrote:

      It's absolutely beautiful.  By the way, glue is period.  Appropriate unless you know for certain that that particular style was not glued.

      On 8/21/2013 1:17 PM, Peter Ellison wrote:

      Picture link:


      This was a white pine in my backyard right next to the power lines.  I had a professional take down the tree and leave me the trunk so that I could attempt to make a stool from it.

      The project was a success, you can sit on the stool and it is very comfortable (it was made to the dimensions of my saw bench).

      No power tools or sand paper was used on it.  All of the tools are ones that someone from the past would recognize.  I cut up the trunk into sections with a 36″ one man cross cut saw, then from there used wedges and a sledge, a broad axe, then a plane.  All of the draw bored joinery was done with a mortice chisel and spoon bit to drill the holes.   The pegs where done with a draw knife.

      I did glue the joints just to be sure, the 1/4″ tenons felt very thin so I wanted to be sure it would not fall apart.

      The next one I’ll make a few changes but nothing too major it will be a little smaller so that it fit my wife comfortably.  I will keep better track of time, I think this one was 3-5 solid days of work spread over 5-6 weeks.

      There are a few flaws and lessons learned from the project that the maker gets to comment on, no one else seemed to find flaws in it.

      1. Make the legs longer and expect to trim them down.  I did not have any wiggle room in this one.

      2. Don't have "shoulders" on the tennons make the full sized, except the top ones just under the seat, that just makes the tennon smaller and more fragile.  Hard to explain in text easy to show.

      3. Make more reference marks on the legs so that the stringer and the top skirting line up better.

      4. Spend more time making the top flat, the seat piece caused all sorts of annoyance, it also squeaks when you sit on it, normal people find it cute, I find it annoying.

      5. Don't break off a tennon during final assembly and need to replace the piece the day before taking it to an event :-)

      6. Keep a work long everyone wants to know how long it took.

      I'm going to make another pine stool so that I have a matching pair and to see if I can learn from my mistakes.  I have a line on oak so the one after that should be a better material to work with.

      Peter Petrovitch

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