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Re: [MedievalSawdust] Re: Two hand saws

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  • Sean Powell
    Cross-cut saws have teeth like 3 sided pyramids. The are flat on the outside with a knife edge front and back, generally they have a more vertical slope on the
    Message 1 of 20 , Dec 26, 2012
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      Cross-cut saws have teeth like 3 sided pyramids. The are flat on the outside with a knife edge front and back, generally they have a more vertical slope on the pull and a shallower slope on the push. They cut like you were repeatedly cutting 2 lines accross the grain with a pair of razor blades and clearing the space between the blades. Rip saws have teeth like chisels and from the side they look more like shark-fins rather then mountains or pyramids. They cut like you were chiseling a small piece out of the end grain and then setting in a new chisel a little deeper and offset alternately left or right. (Hey I learned something from watching Roy Underhill. WOO HOO!)

      Here is a good article I stumbled across.
       
      In general cross-cuts do poor jobs ripping and ripers do poor jobs cross-cutting. Take a close look yourself or post a picture and we'll see if we can identify it for you. You wouldn't use a felling ade as a splitting maul or a splitting maul as an axe. It wouldn't do the job well.

      They make combination 10" diameter cross/rip blade for table saws but I tend to avoid them. I don't know if they make them for hand-saws.
       
      luck!
      Sean


      On Wed, Dec 26, 2012 at 6:17 PM, gavinkilkenny <dukegavin@...> wrote:
       

      On the question of crosscut versus rip- I don't know. The tooth pattern is one I haven't seen on anything but these large logging saws and I don't know whether it's intended for ripping or crosscutting.

      The link posted to the National Forest/Park Service showed a picture of a saw with the tooth pattern mine has. Deep, on the order of an inch and a half, with arched spaces between pairs of teeth.

      Heraldry- not just one 20 foot log. ;) I had 11 trees taken down in the spring. Made me feel very smart when Sandy came through and none of them could fall on the house because they were already down.


    • gavinkilkenny
      Mutter. Auto-mistake doesn t like your name, Haraldr ;) sorry about that.
      Message 2 of 20 , Dec 27, 2012
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        Mutter. Auto-mistake doesn't like your name, Haraldr ;) sorry about that.

        --- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, "gavinkilkenny" <dukegavin@...> wrote:
        >
        > On the question of crosscut versus rip- I don't know. The tooth pattern is one I haven't seen on anything but these large logging saws and I don't know whether it's intended for ripping or crosscutting.
        >
        > The link posted to the National Forest/Park Service showed a picture of a saw with the tooth pattern mine has. Deep, on the order of an inch and a half, with arched spaces between pairs of teeth.
        >
        > Heraldry- not just one 20 foot log. ;) I had 11 trees taken down in the spring. Made me feel very smart when Sandy came through and none of them could fall on the house because they were already down.
        >
      • Geirfold
        Can you post pics of them?
        Message 3 of 20 , Dec 27, 2012
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          Can you post pics of them?

          --- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, "D. Young" <furnaceplans@...> wrote:
          >
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          > If anyone is interested in early saws I own the following, the are heavily based on medieval versions (ie, we can take cues).
          >
          > --early kenyon keyhole saw circa 1670-1720
          > --early keyhole saw circa 1650-1750
          > --Dutch saw pistol grip handle circa 1650-1730
          > --several 18th century pistol long saw
          > --1815 long saw
          > --and numerous cross cut logging saws and 19th century saws
          >
          > Notably there are only a handful of the first mentioned saws in the world so Im happy to discuss details. I searched for these for years.
          >
          > LMK if interested.
          >
          > Cheers
          > Drew
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          > Fine Armour and Historical Reproductions
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          > Custom Commissions Welcome....!
          > www.partsandtechnical.com
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          > (Well Formed Munitions Catalog Coming This Spring)
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          > To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
          > From: dukegavin@...
          > Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2012 00:35:06 +0000
          > Subject: [MedievalSawdust] Two hand saws
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          > I bought a 42 inch saw off eBay and have been giving it some test runs. Seems to be a problem with it binding as soon as it gets past the depth of the teeth.
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          > Wondering if there is any advice from the crew about proper care and feeding of such tools, and any tricks to their effective use.
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          > One thought I'm having is that it may need a bit of offset on the teeth- at present it looks to be dead straight, with no offset.
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          > Gavin
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        • D. Young
          Yeah sure. Give me a day or so. In the meantime most of my saw pics and early tool pics actually are on my facebook group page. Just faster to upload.
          Message 4 of 20 , Dec 28, 2012
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            Yeah sure.   Give me a day or so.   In the meantime most of my saw pics and early tool pics actually are on my facebook group page.   Just faster to upload.   Most people have FB accounts so swing by if you get the chance.   Ill upload here this week.



            cheers
            Drew 



            To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
            From: hammered_shamrock@...
            Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2012 14:33:33 +0000
            Subject: [MedievalSawdust] Re: my saw collection

             
            Can you post pics of them?

            --- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, "D. Young" <furnaceplans@...> wrote:
            >
            >
            > If anyone is interested in early saws I own the following, the are heavily based on medieval versions (ie, we can take cues).
            >
            > --early kenyon keyhole saw circa 1670-1720
            > --early keyhole saw circa 1650-1750
            > --Dutch saw pistol grip handle circa 1650-1730
            > --several 18th century pistol long saw
            > --1815 long saw
            > --and numerous cross cut logging saws and 19th century saws
            >
            > Notably there are only a handful of the first mentioned saws in the world so Im happy to discuss details. I searched for these for years.
            >
            > LMK if interested.
            >
            > Cheers
            > Drew
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            > Fine Armour and Historical Reproductions
            >
            > Custom Commissions Welcome....!
            > www.partsandtechnical.com
            >
            > (Well Formed Munitions Catalog Coming This Spring)
            >
            >
            >
            >
            > To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
            > From: dukegavin@...
            > Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2012 00:35:06 +0000
            > Subject: [MedievalSawdust] Two hand saws
            >
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            > I bought a 42 inch saw off eBay and have been giving it some test runs. Seems to be a problem with it binding as soon as it gets past the depth of the teeth.
            >
            >
            >
            > Wondering if there is any advice from the crew about proper care and feeding of such tools, and any tricks to their effective use.
            >
            >
            >
            > One thought I'm having is that it may need a bit of offset on the teeth- at present it looks to be dead straight, with no offset.
            >
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            > Gavin
            >


          • K
            Hi; saws need set to make the Kerf (slot that the saw cuts) wider than the thickness of the blade, Set is the amount the teeth are bent sideways after
            Message 5 of 20 , Dec 30, 2012
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              Hi;
              saws need "set" to make the "Kerf" (slot that the saw cuts) wider than the thickness of the blade, "Set" is the amount the teeth are bent sideways after sharpening. This is done with a "saw setting tool" or a "saw set".
              logging saws are all coarse crosscut saws.
              see Paul Hasluck's "The Handyman's Book" for description of saws and sharpening.
              have fun!

              K
            • i_griffen
              Garvin Having experience sharpening and setting these Saws. It sounds to me there is no set in the teeth and the raker teeth are too long and needs to br taken
              Message 6 of 20 , Dec 31, 2012
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                Garvin

                Having experience sharpening and setting these Saws. It sounds to me there is no set in the teeth and the raker teeth are too long and needs to br taken down.

                Method to sharpen Saw, Measure height of Rakers (the rakers cleans the kerf as you are cutting)to tooth height. Sharpen teeth, both sides. Recheck the profile of the raker to tooth, the raker should be slightly shorter than the tooth. Once this is done then set the teeth to make the kerf.

                When I used to sharpen Bucking and falling saws, I clamped therm to a 2x6 then to a bench to keepthe teeth upright.then I would use a triangler file or a flat file.

                Iain Griffen

                --- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, "gavinkilkenny" <dukegavin@...> wrote:
                >
                > I bought a 42 inch saw off eBay and have been giving it some test runs. Seems to be a problem with it binding as soon as it gets past the depth of the teeth.
                >
                > Wondering if there is any advice from the crew about proper care and feeding of such tools, and any tricks to their effective use.
                >
                > One thought I'm having is that it may need a bit of offset on the teeth- at present it looks to be dead straight, with no offset.
                >
                > Gavin
                >
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