Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Re: [MedievalSawdust] Unmedievally OT: Wood glue strengths, and woodworking links

Expand Messages
  • Kean Gryffyth
    I ve not had good luck with Gorilla Glue. I stick to Titebond III, unless I m working in a particularly dark wood, in which case I ll use Titebond II for dark
    Message 1 of 5 , May 5, 2011
    • 0 Attachment
      I've not had good luck with Gorilla Glue. I stick to Titebond III,
      unless I'm working in a particularly dark wood, in which case I'll use
      Titebond II for dark wood.

      -Kean

      On 5/5/2011 12:15 AM, Broom wrote:
      > So, I'm building some cabinets, and tried to join them with Gorilla
      > glue, hoping to simplify the process of assembly. Ignore the sense of
      > that first idea, and let's get straight to the results...
      >
      > Some of the joints failed with minimal stress (moderate handling).
      > Others seemed stronger, but I didn't give them a real shakedown. I've
      > decided to back up all glued joint with brads. However, I was left
      > wondering what went wrong...
      >
      > This site:
      > http://woodgears.ca/joint_strength/glue.html
      > ... reinforces the manufacturer's claims that Gorilla glue is very
      > strong. The author suggests that Titebond 3 is the strongest glue of
      > all, but the single-test failure differences are actually rather
      > slight for the "first-tier" glues (Hot glue, Epoxy, and "Varnish as
      > glue" were noticeably weaker).
      >
      > Nonetheless, I had joints fail when dropped a few inches onto cement,
      > all on the glue line (no wood failure). These were end/long-grain and
      > cross-grain joints. The joints were clamped for the recommended 30
      > minutes (usually much longer), and cured for the recommended 24 hrs.
      > The failure was from shock, not sheer force (the above webpage only
      > tests sheer failures).
      >
      > So, any clues what went wrong?
      > * Expanding polyurethane may be very sensitive to shock. Like glass,
      > it may be strong, but brittle.
      > * Maybe I didn't have enough glue. (But good lord, I tried! And had to
      > clean most joints of excess.)
      > * The garage was cool; this slows cure times. However, this wouldn't
      > explain why some joints were strong and others weak.
      >
      > --
      >
      > Someone recently asked for woodworking blog links, This site is pretty
      > fascinating.
      > http://woodgears.ca/links.html
      >
      > ' | Broom IAmBroom @ gmail . com
      > ' | cellphone: 412-389-1997
      > ' | 9370 Shadduck Rd, McKean, PA 16426
      > '\|/ "Discere et docere", which means:
      > '/|\ "We see with our eyes only to the degree that we use journalists
      > //|\\ to read our newspapers."
    • Alex Haugland
      did you wet mating surfaces? the urethane glues rely on moisture to cure properly... --Alysaundre Weldon Barony of Adiantum Kingdom of An Tir
      Message 2 of 5 , May 5, 2011
      • 0 Attachment
        did you wet mating surfaces?  the urethane glues rely on moisture to cure properly...

        --Alysaundre Weldon
        Barony of Adiantum
        Kingdom of An Tir



        On May 5, 2011, at 4:37 PM, Kean Gryffyth <kad.dsl@...> wrote:

         

        I've not had good luck with Gorilla Glue. I stick to Titebond III,
        unless I'm working in a particularly dark wood, in which case I'll use
        Titebond II for dark wood.

        -Kean

        On 5/5/2011 12:15 AM, Broom wrote:
        > So, I'm building some cabinets, and tried to join them with Gorilla
        > glue, hoping to simplify the process of assembly. Ignore the sense of
        > that first idea, and let's get straight to the results...
        >
        > Some of the joints failed with minimal stress (moderate handling).
        > Others seemed stronger, but I didn't give them a real shakedown. I've
        > decided to back up all glued joint with brads. However, I was left
        > wondering what went wrong...
        >
        > This site:
        > http://woodgears.ca/joint_strength/glue.html
        > ... reinforces the manufacturer's claims that Gorilla glue is very
        > strong. The author suggests that Titebond 3 is the strongest glue of
        > all, but the single-test failure differences are actually rather
        > slight for the "first-tier" glues (Hot glue, Epoxy, and "Varnish as
        > glue" were noticeably weaker).
        >
        > Nonetheless, I had joints fail when dropped a few inches onto cement,
        > all on the glue line (no wood failure). These were end/long-grain and
        > cross-grain joints. The joints were clamped for the recommended 30
        > minutes (usually much longer), and cured for the recommended 24 hrs.
        > The failure was from shock, not sheer force (the above webpage only
        > tests sheer failures).
        >
        > So, any clues what went wrong?
        > * Expanding polyurethane may be very sensitive to shock. Like glass,
        > it may be strong, but brittle.
        > * Maybe I didn't have enough glue. (But good lord, I tried! And had to
        > clean most joints of excess.)
        > * The garage was cool; this slows cure times. However, this wouldn't
        > explain why some joints were strong and others weak.
        >
        > --
        >
        > Someone recently asked for woodworking blog links, This site is pretty
        > fascinating.
        > http://woodgears.ca/links.html
        >
        > ' | Broom IAmBroom @ gmail . com
        > ' | cellphone: 412-389-1997
        > ' | 9370 Shadduck Rd, McKean, PA 16426
        > '\|/ "Discere et docere", which means:
        > '/|\ "We see with our eyes only to the degree that we use journalists
        > //|\\ to read our newspapers."

      Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.