Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

RE: [MedievalSawdust] Finishing red-oak

Expand Messages
  • D. Young
    Is the objective to de-Red the oak.....or to just protect it? There is a difference. Fine Armour and Historical Reproductions Custom Commissions Welcome....!
    Message 1 of 16 , May 4, 2011
    • 0 Attachment
      Is the objective to de-Red the oak.....or to just protect it?

      There is a difference.



      Fine Armour and Historical Reproductions

           Custom Commissions Welcome....!

      www.partsandtechnical.com
      (Well Formed Munitions Catalog Coming This Spring)
       





      To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
      From: jljonsn@...
      Date: Mon, 2 May 2011 22:41:12 -0400
      Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Finishing red-oak

       
      Red Oak?!?! UNCLEAN!!! HERESAY!

      Euro Oak is brown, which looks... brown. If'n it were white oak, I'd tell you to fume it and rub in multiple coats of "tried-n-tru" linseed & resin oil into it. But since you have the red oak, I'd go for an alcohol based (aniline) stain, followed by the linseed mix. Or, there's this: method: http://www.nrhillerdesign.com/press/pdfs/011193106.pdf .

      Jeff




      On Mon, May 2, 2011 at 8:38 PM, Sean Powell <powell.sean@...> wrote:
      Hello,

      I feel guilty about posting this following the discussion about the
      laurels showing deference to fancy and unique over simple and
      commonplace but I am completing a set of 4 glastonbury camp chairs in
      5/4 red-oak. It was my first experience working with lumber straight
      from the mill rather then from a hardware store and WOW was it an eye
      opener. After all the work to turn tree-pieces into planks I think it's
      a shame to mask the beautiful wood grain. Then again someone once
      described an SCA event as looking like the cast-offs from the
      'unfinished furniture' store. My wife has expressed an interest in
      painting heraldry on the backs but her project list is as long as mine
      so they may be accomplished at quarter-past never. Likewise I had
      delusions of carving the arms properly... but please see the list of
      projects above.

      So... Is there a (preferably period) way to finish red-oak, to make it
      more weather and water resistant (camp furniture) that will not cause
      the pieces to bond together (camp furniture) that will show the grain
      (cause it's pretty), permit the delusions of eventual carving (maybe
      tung oil?), permit painting over the finish (oil based paint?) and not
      look like the piece was 80% done and then dashed together?

      I think I've asked this question before (or a variant on it) but after
      my hard-drive crash I lost a lot of saved notes. I recall a mixture of
      bees-wax, mineral spirits and tung oil is supposed to create a
      penetrating finish that evaporates and leaves a hard coating but have no
      idea of the ratios or the technique to apply it.

      Any and all advice is appreciated.

      Sean


      ------------------------------------

      <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
          http://groups.yahoo.com/group/medievalsawdust/Yahoo! Groups Links

      <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
         http://groups.yahoo.com/group/medievalsawdust/

      <*> Your email settings:
         Individual Email | Traditional

      <*> To change settings online go to:
         http://groups.yahoo.com/group/medievalsawdust/join
         (Yahoo! ID required)

      <*> To change settings via email:
         medievalsawdust-digest@yahoogroups.com
         medievalsawdust-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com

      <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
         medievalsawdust-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

      <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
         http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/



    • Vels inn Viggladi
      So, I got to doing some finishing on a couple new pieces today. I figured I d see how the walnut oil stacked up to linseed. For the test I happened to be
      Message 2 of 16 , May 4, 2011
      • 0 Attachment
        So, I got to doing some finishing on a couple new pieces today. I figured I'd see how the walnut oil stacked up to linseed. For the test I happened to be working with some red oak, so I'll be commenting on comparisons based on previous experience with that and other "light" colored woods.

        Most obvious is the viscosity. Walnut oil is much thinner and lighter than boiled linseed oil. In color the walnut oil is also significantly lighter. I could not tell where the walnut oil had begun to penetrate before rubbing it in with a cloth. Those who've worked with linseed oil will recognize that during initial application linseed oil has a tendency to show a marked difference from where it is initially flooded on compared to other settling points after it has been spread around.

        Linseed oil tends to add a yellow hue to woods, which then moves into a darker amber with time. The walnut oil went on with just the slightest coloring of the wood, very gently bringing up the grain (as opposed to the *pop* that can occur with linseed).

        The wood soaked up the walnut oil rather quickly. This is probably a combination of the thinness of the oil and the open pore nature of the wood in question. Still, the surface of the wood was not oily to the touch within 2 hours. It will have to wait until tomorrow to see if there are any distinct differences once the oil begins to cure.

        For the next step, I'm going to do a side by side on two pieces of oak from the same board. After application and curing, I'm going to expose them to direct sunlight for a week to see if there is any difference to the colorization and surface texture.



        Vels
      Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.