RE: [MedievalSawdust] Finishing red-oak
- Is the objective to de-Red the oak.....or to just protect it?
There is a difference.
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Date: Mon, 2 May 2011 22:41:12 -0400
Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Finishing red-oakRed Oak?!?! UNCLEAN!!! HERESAY!
Euro Oak is brown, which looks... brown. If'n it were white oak, I'd tell you to fume it and rub in multiple coats of "tried-n-tru" linseed & resin oil into it. But since you have the red oak, I'd go for an alcohol based (aniline) stain, followed by the linseed mix. Or, there's this: method: http://www.nrhillerdesign.com/press/pdfs/011193106.pdf .
JeffOn Mon, May 2, 2011 at 8:38 PM, Sean Powell <powell.sean@...> wrote:
I feel guilty about posting this following the discussion about the
laurels showing deference to fancy and unique over simple and
commonplace but I am completing a set of 4 glastonbury camp chairs in
5/4 red-oak. It was my first experience working with lumber straight
from the mill rather then from a hardware store and WOW was it an eye
opener. After all the work to turn tree-pieces into planks I think it's
a shame to mask the beautiful wood grain. Then again someone once
described an SCA event as looking like the cast-offs from the
'unfinished furniture' store. My wife has expressed an interest in
painting heraldry on the backs but her project list is as long as mine
so they may be accomplished at quarter-past never. Likewise I had
delusions of carving the arms properly... but please see the list of
So... Is there a (preferably period) way to finish red-oak, to make it
more weather and water resistant (camp furniture) that will not cause
the pieces to bond together (camp furniture) that will show the grain
(cause it's pretty), permit the delusions of eventual carving (maybe
tung oil?), permit painting over the finish (oil based paint?) and not
look like the piece was 80% done and then dashed together?
I think I've asked this question before (or a variant on it) but after
my hard-drive crash I lost a lot of saved notes. I recall a mixture of
bees-wax, mineral spirits and tung oil is supposed to create a
penetrating finish that evaporates and leaves a hard coating but have no
idea of the ratios or the technique to apply it.
Any and all advice is appreciated.
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- So, I got to doing some finishing on a couple new pieces today. I figured I'd see how the walnut oil stacked up to linseed. For the test I happened to be working with some red oak, so I'll be commenting on comparisons based on previous experience with that and other "light" colored woods.
Most obvious is the viscosity. Walnut oil is much thinner and lighter than boiled linseed oil. In color the walnut oil is also significantly lighter. I could not tell where the walnut oil had begun to penetrate before rubbing it in with a cloth. Those who've worked with linseed oil will recognize that during initial application linseed oil has a tendency to show a marked difference from where it is initially flooded on compared to other settling points after it has been spread around.
Linseed oil tends to add a yellow hue to woods, which then moves into a darker amber with time. The walnut oil went on with just the slightest coloring of the wood, very gently bringing up the grain (as opposed to the *pop* that can occur with linseed).
The wood soaked up the walnut oil rather quickly. This is probably a combination of the thinness of the oil and the open pore nature of the wood in question. Still, the surface of the wood was not oily to the touch within 2 hours. It will have to wait until tomorrow to see if there are any distinct differences once the oil begins to cure.
For the next step, I'm going to do a side by side on two pieces of oak from the same board. After application and curing, I'm going to expose them to direct sunlight for a week to see if there is any difference to the colorization and surface texture.