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Re: [MedievalSawdust] Glastonbury chairs: advice given and needed.

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  • Dan Baker
    I considered the dado head but decided not to since a bigger cutting surface has a greater potential of ripping the stock away from you. and I have no need to
    Message 1 of 10 , Apr 26, 2011
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      I considered the dado head but decided not to since a bigger cutting surface has a greater potential of ripping the stock away from you.  and I have no need to be called 3 finger Charlie.. Right Master Charles?

      -Rhys

      On Tue, Apr 26, 2011 at 5:59 AM, Jeffrey Johnson <jljonsn@...> wrote:
       

      Ditto on Rhys's dowel reducing, method, except I used a dado head to cut.

      For the flattening - seems you have a prime opportunity to acquire and learn to use a proper handplane. "Honey, I HAVE TO have it for this project". If you want one that works well out of the box, I'd suggest a lee valley #4.

      On Apr 25, 2011 10:35 PM, "Dan Baker" <LordRhys@...> wrote:
      >
      >  
      >
      > Thought 1, Been there,I used my table saw to step down the dowels, yep sounds weird, but works great.  I created a jug with a v shaped trance, and clamped it to the table perpendicular to the blade.  I used a scrap dowel to test the new diameter by trial and error, test, raise blade, test again, etc.  you very very carefully slide the dowel down the trench twisting it to cut completely around.  cut one blade width slide it in repeat until you hit the fence set at desired depth.   I had a 2nd v block above the dowel to hold it down.  Creates a rough surface that holds glue well.  Not quick, but I did 10 chairs that way, and have had no problems with glue failure. wedge holes, again v grove jig, I used 2 one at a 10 degree angle.  drill hole closest to chair vertically, 2nd at angle with 1/4 in drill.  clean out between them with a chisel.  Wedge holes made, quick and easy.  A 5 degree angle gives you a tighter wedge, but these chairs don't stay together for more then an afternoon.  (Midrealm Royal Thrones) and being easy to take apart was important too, hence the looser 10 deg angle.
      >
      > Thought 2 . If you make more I have plans for frame and panel seats.  these don't completely disasemble like the period version.  on my website  http://www.noonelike.us/~rhys/  Also I have more period arm designs
      >
      > Thought 3  that sucks, been there done that.... two ways I used, very coarse grit palm sander, or I have an electric planer, hand model, that is to wide for my surface planer.  The hand model can be set to desired depth and very carefully cut.  You are still going to sand like crazy, but it takes away some of the pain.  also the electric planer is very useful in the shop, I use mine a lot. this one on craigs list is the same model as mine http://sanangelo.craigslist.org/tls/2301972536.html  Also consider spline jointing in the future http://tinyurl.com/42p48la    Splines are very handy and easy to make clean matching surfaces, the big secret is cut with the table saw in the center of the piece then reverse ends and run it a second time so it is perfectly centered, cut splines after that to ensure a tight fit.  Spline joints done properly are stronger then biscuits.  (grain of spline and grain of piece should be perpendicular for maximum strength)
      >
      >
      > Ludi Fac,
      >
      > -Rhys
      >
      > Oh and I have some DON"T DO WHAT I DID notes in several of my projects too, comes with learning.
      >
      >
      > On Mon, Apr 25, 2011 at 8:55 PM, Sean Powell <powell.sean@...> wrote:
      >>
      >>  
      >>
      >> Hello,
      >> I'm finishing up 4 oak Glastonbury chairs and I thought I would pass
      >> along some of my 'lessons learned' so other people don't follow in my
      >> mistakes and hopefully I get some advice for a minor fix.
      >>
      >> Thought 1: Since i don't have a lathe I made the posts by cutting
      >> sections of 1" dowel 4-5" long and drilling a 1/2" diameter 1" deep hole
      >> in one end (this would be much easier on a chucker lathe but a
      >> drill-press and a good jig will work). I then glued these into the sides
      >> of the seat, back and lower stretcher. What I DIDN'T do was cross-drill
      >> the slots for the wedges when they were small and easy to put on a
      >> drill-press or in a router jig. Instead I waited until after they were
      >> mounted and had to build 3 seperate jigs and buy extra long router bits
      >> to accommodate the added length of the lower stretcher. Don't do what I did.
      >>
      >> Thought 2: The period examples I know of have an inset panel seat. These
      >> are more time consuming but do use smaller pieces of wood. I opted to
      >> biscuit join two slabs of 5/4 red-oak into the seats and then mount the
      >> posts above into the endgrain. Please note that the seat is now
      >> esentially matching the cross-grain to the along-grain of the
      >> side-rails. They shrink and swell at different rates. The pieces only
      >> fit well together in humid weather and I hope that holds true for the
      >> future. I spent a fair amount of time with a spindle sander turning the
      >> holes in the side-rails into ovals. Thankfully any oval shape will be
      >> covered by the arms or legs. Don't do what I did.
      >>
      >> Thought 3 (question): Since I was building slab seats we used a biscit
      >> joiner and that SHOULD have aligned the tops fairly well, but some have
      >> as much as a 1/16" lip. It's going to take forever to sand flush. I only
      >> have a palm-sander and a 6" box-plane that I have heavily modified for
      >> working rattan. I think I need either a better plane or a scraper but
      >> I'm not certain which. Here I could use some advice. If I want to
      >> rough-down a 18" lengthwise section by 1/16" in red-oak without leaving
      >> bad tool marks, what is the best tool to use and the best way to use it?
      >>
      >> Thanks in advance.
      >> Sean
      >>
      >
      >


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