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RE: [MedievalSawdust] Re:wood bending

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  • Bobby Bourgoin (Robert du Bourg)
    WOW, thanks for the info. Bobby _____ From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Julian Wilson Sent: 24 avril
    Message 1 of 4 , Apr 24, 2011
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      WOW, thanks for the info…

       

      Bobby

       


      From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com [mailto: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Julian Wilson
      Sent: 24 avril 2011 05:14
      To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
      Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Re:wood bending

       

       

      Hmm - "chests" for steam bending?
       In my Father's traditional Boatyard  on the N. side of the Thames Estuary over 40 years ago - the main Workshop had a huge 75ft-long  "steam chest" made from massive timbers, and supplied with steam from the boiler which also supplied the steam engine which was  the main power for the yard's machinery.
       This was all technology that in most cases pre-dated the Great War, 1914-1918. Essex longshoremen being a very traditiona bunch, most small Boatyards back then worked on the basis mof "if it works, don't fix it".
       For smaller steaming jobs, the Yard a number of lengths of cast-iron drainpipes discarded by the local Water Utility Supply Company through casting-flaws or cracking,  on which the Yard's Smith had welded blank-offs on one end and welded-on hinged doors closed with quick-release clamps at the other .
      The sections of cast-iron pipe were portable enough to be moved right-alongside small-craft being repaired in the outside dry-laying-up areas, or in their off-Season-lay-up mud-berths. Some of the smaller pipes used-to-be sealed during the steaming process with carved wooden bungs,  wound with old rags to serve as temporary gaskets.
      So, if I wanted to make myself a steam-chest for a "one-time" use-job today, I think I'd look for some lengths of Ceramic or earthenware drainpipe of a large-enough dia. for your timber-  join them together on some kind of inclined bed,  caulking the joints with old rope or rags, sealed with clay, with a wooden bung in the upper end.
      Heavy leather welders' gloves or domestic  "oven-mitts" are the cheapest way to be able to handle your timber fresh out of the steam chest, while going through the frantic activity of trying to get your workpiece clamped into shape before it cools too far and stops being pliable.

      Julian,
       trained as a traditional boatbuilder  - [probably before most of you were born!]

      --- On Sun, 24/4/11, Ralph <n7bsn@...> wrote:


      From: Ralph <n7bsn@...>
      Subject: [MedievalSawdust] Re:wood bending
      To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
      Date: Sunday, 24 April, 2011, 1:26

       



      --- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, Jack Forbes <jforbes310@...> wrote:

      >
      > Hello Bobby,
      >
      > The best method over the years has been steam bending. You will need to
      build a
      > steam box out of wood or a large PVC pipe, figure about an hour for

      I would -not- recommend using PVC, it "steam" bends itself. Last year at my (former) workplace we steam bent a bunch of PVC pipe. We used steam bending as the lead insisted, even though there are commercial systems made to heat PVC for bending (large discussing about trying to change his mind on the mater not needed here)

      Ralg
      AnTir

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