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Re: [MedievalSawdust] Re: A tool question

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  • conradh@efn.org
    ... If you have the space for a bunch of dedicated tools, you can t beat the price! Sometimes those accessories can be found very cheaply because they have
    Message 1 of 8 , Jan 9, 2011
      On Sun, January 9, 2011 7:45 am, mejnoona wrote:
      > My Dad was given a shopshmith many years ago and ran across the same
      > issues with it being inconvenient to constantly have to change equipment
      > out to work. So he built a separate table for each accessory piece and
      > attached old washing machine motors so that they became stand-alone
      > tools. The main unit he keeps configured as a lathe. This has worked
      > well for him for a while now.
      If you have the space for a bunch of dedicated tools, you can't beat the
      price! Sometimes those accessories can be found very cheaply because they
      have wandered away from their parent machine over the years. All the
      accessories I've seen have been well made.

      As a lathe, the Shopsmith is a pretty good one for spindle turning. I
      bought a faceplate from the company about twenty years ago, back when they
      had a chain of stores. The 10ER, at least, has a 5/8 spindle diameter
      that takes all kinds of tooling, including a fair amount of stuff from
      other companies. The drill chuck, faceplate, sanding disc, etc. mount
      with a setscrew against a flat on the spindle. Sawblades mount on a
      threaded arbor between compression washers, with the arbor/blade assembly
      mounting on the spindle.

      Washing machine motors are a great way to power your shop. They're
      generally 1/2 hp, and if you get them out of top-loader washers you have
      the option of mounting them with the shaft vertical, as you want for a
      drill press or spindle shaper. When a washing machine craps out, it's
      almost never the motor that went wrong!

      When you tear out the motor, be sure to get the wiring diagram! It's
      usually on paper and glued to some surface on the inside of the machine's
      shell. Cut out the piece of sheet metal drawing and all if you have to.
      You need this because washer motors have a great many color-coded wires.
      Figure them out and you often can select two speeds, and reverse, the
      motor with just switches. Each company does it differently, which is why
      you have to use the diagram to figure it all out.

      If you feel you need more than 1/2 hp, there's no law says you can't belt
      two or more motors to one shaft. You may want individual switches on each
      of the motors--motors draw more current to start than they do in normal
      running, and if two of them start at once you may find yourself blowing
      the breaker. If this happens, try switching one motor on and then
      starting the second after the first has come up to speed. If things still
      blow, you can settle for less power, lead an extension cord for one motor
      from another circuit in your shop, or rewire with heavier-duty wire and
      breaker. "Slow-blow" breakers are also available and a good idea for
      power tool circuits; they absorb short-term overloads of a few seconds
      (like starting a motor) while still keeping your wiring from overheating
      and starting a fire somewhere.

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