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RE: [MedievalSawdust] White woods for gameboard.

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  • Bill McNutt
    Holly - if you seal it good, it will stay fairly white. Will From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
    Message 1 of 10 , Dec 17, 2010
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      Holly – if you seal it good, it will stay fairly white.

       

      Will

       

      From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
      Sent: Friday, December 17, 2010 8:24 AM
      To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
      Subject: [MedievalSawdust] White woods for gameboard.

       

       

      I'm making a gameboard. I have ebony, but need a white material. I have boatloads of Holly & Maple and enough Box for the job. I had considered ivory, but the antique stuff seems outside any reasonable budget. Plastic ivory seems too perfect looking, and I'd really rather avoid it unless I have no other options. Objective is authenticity, as this is for very public display for a reenacting group.

      Any recommendations what to go with?

    • leaking pen
      Olive.
      Message 2 of 10 , Dec 17, 2010
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        Olive.

        On Fri, Dec 17, 2010 at 6:23 AM, Jeff <jljonsn@...> wrote:
         

        I'm making a gameboard. I have ebony, but need a white material. I have boatloads of Holly & Maple and enough Box for the job. I had considered ivory, but the antique stuff seems outside any reasonable budget. Plastic ivory seems too perfect looking, and I'd really rather avoid it unless I have no other options. Objective is authenticity, as this is for very public display for a reenacting group.

        Any recommendations what to go with?


      • Colleen Vince
        If you all ready have the Holly, I d use it. Otherwise there are some imitation ivories that dont look that bad. Although if the board has a middle eastern
        Message 3 of 10 , Dec 17, 2010
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          If you all ready have the Holly, I'd use it. Otherwise there are some imitation ivories that dont look that bad.
           
          Although if the board has a middle eastern flair, The use of Bone (camel) was used in some pieces.

          --
          Mary Ostler    
          Apprentice to Mistress Agnes Cresewyke
          Lions Gate Game Marshal
          www.maryostler.com
        • Jeffrey Johnson
          Hmmm... might go for the Holly. I priced the mammoth ivory and $22 per board square or counter is a tad spendy. ... boatloads of Holly & Maple and enough Box
          Message 4 of 10 , Dec 17, 2010
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            Hmmm... might go for the Holly. I priced the mammoth ivory and $22 per board square or counter is a tad spendy.

            On Dec 17, 2010 8:28 AM, "Jeff" <jljonsn@...> wrote:
            >
            >  
            >
            > I'm making a gameboard. I have ebony, but need a white material. I have boatloads of Holly & Maple and enough Box for the job. I had considered ivory, but the antique stuff seems outside any reasonable budget. Plastic ivory seems too perfect looking, and I'd really rather avoid it unless I have no other options. Objective is authenticity, as this is for very public display for a reenacting group.
            >
            > Any recommendations what to go with?
            >
            >

          • Jim Hart
            Putting it next to ebony there are a lot of woods that will be of high enough contrast to work. Maple, holly. Ebony is dark enough for you to use almost
            Message 5 of 10 , Dec 19, 2010
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              Putting it next to ebony there are a lot of woods that will be of high enough contrast to 
              work. Maple, holly. Ebony is dark enough for you to use almost anything.


              Consider how hard the two woods are. I'm going to use an extreme example to make the point but you would not want to use maple and pine together because that maple is so much harder than the pine and will sand or scrape smooth at much different rates. 7You want to choose two woods that have working properties that are similar.

              I have not worked with either ebony or holly before so this may not be an issue with those two specific woods.



              Unless you already have the ebony.... If this is for an SCA person, are there exotics that are close in color to the primary colors of their device/arms?  That could make the project go one step farther to really impress the recipient. 

              On Fri, Dec 17, 2010 at 7:40 PM, Jeffrey Johnson <jljonsn@...> wrote:
               

              Hmmm... might go for the Holly. I priced the mammoth ivory and $22 per board square or counter is a tad spendy.
              On Dec 17, 2010 8:28 AM, "Jeff" <jljonsn@...> wrote:
              >
              >  
              >
              > I'm making a gameboard. I have ebony, but need a white material. I have boatloads of Holly & Maple and enough Box for the job. I had considered ivory, but the antique stuff seems outside any reasonable budget. Plastic ivory seems too perfect looking, and I'd really rather avoid it unless I have no other options. Objective is authenticity, as this is for very public display for a reenacting group.
              >
              > Any recommendations what to go with?
              >
              >


            • Jeff
              This is for Lady Joan in LaBelle, and it ll be a public display piece, so exotics are not possible. Really, at the class level we re talking, I really ought
              Message 6 of 10 , Dec 19, 2010
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                This is for Lady Joan in LaBelle, and it'll be a public display piece, so exotics are not possible. Really, at the class level we're talking, I really ought use ivory, but am reluctant to put $hundreds into it. I've been pointed towards camelbone, which is supposedly very close to ivory in appearance (but slightly less spendy). I have an ivory cribbage board, and think I'll obtain some camel bone for comparison before putting this option before the review committee.

                Hardness is certainly a design factor, as is expansion with humidity.

                For the counters... I've been thinking that there's no reason to restrict myself to using the same white material for the counters as the board, so regardless of the board material, I think I'm going with Boxwood and ebony.

                Jeff

                --- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, Jim Hart <conalohairt@...> wrote:
                >
                > Putting it next to ebony there are a lot of woods that will be of high
                > enough contrast to
                > work. Maple, holly. Ebony is dark enough for you to use almost anything.
                >
                > http://www.exoticwood.biz/woodchart.htm
                >
                > Consider how hard the two woods are. I'm going to use an extreme example to
                > make the point but you would not want to use maple and pine together because
                > that maple is so much harder than the pine and will sand or scrape smooth at
                > much different rates. 7You want to choose two woods that have working
                > properties that are similar.
                >
                > I have not worked with either ebony or holly before so this may not be an
                > issue with those two specific woods.
                >
                >
                >
                > Unless you already have the ebony.... If this is for an SCA person, are
                > there exotics that are close in color to the primary colors of their
                > device/arms? That could make the project go one step farther
                > to really impress the recipient.
                >
                > On Fri, Dec 17, 2010 at 7:40 PM, Jeffrey Johnson <jljonsn@...> wrote:
                >
                > >
                > >
                > > Hmmm... might go for the Holly. I priced the mammoth ivory and $22 per
                > > board square or counter is a tad spendy.
                > > On Dec 17, 2010 8:28 AM, "Jeff" <jljonsn@...> wrote:
                > > >
                > > >
                > > >
                > > > I'm making a gameboard. I have ebony, but need a white material. I have
                > > boatloads of Holly & Maple and enough Box for the job. I had considered
                > > ivory, but the antique stuff seems outside any reasonable budget. Plastic
                > > ivory seems too perfect looking, and I'd really rather avoid it unless I
                > > have no other options. Objective is authenticity, as this is for very public
                > > display for a reenacting group.
                > > >
                > > > Any recommendations what to go with?
                > > >
                > > >
                > >
                > >
                > >
                >
              • Lynda Fjellman
                Actually any kind of bone is smooth and white.  Beef bones are large and easy to come by.  If you have a custom butcher nearby you can get them to save you
                Message 7 of 10 , Dec 19, 2010
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                  Actually any kind of bone is smooth and white.  Beef bones are large and easy to come by.  If you have a custom butcher nearby you can get them to save you the shoulderblades of cows being boned for hamburger.  Lots of nice flat planes on a shoulderblade.  Alternatively buy lots of thick blade roasts. . .
                  Just keep in mind that if you are grinding bone, the dust is worse for your lungs than wooddust.
                  Ilaria

                  --- On Sun, 12/19/10, Jeff <jljonsn@...> wrote:

                  From: Jeff <jljonsn@...>
                  Subject: [MedievalSawdust] Re: White woods for gameboard.
                  To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                  Date: Sunday, December 19, 2010, 4:59 AM

                   


                  This is for Lady Joan in LaBelle, and it'll be a public display piece, so exotics are not possible. Really, at the class level we're talking, I really ought use ivory, but am reluctant to put $hundreds into it. I've been pointed towards camelbone, which is supposedly very close to ivory in appearance (but slightly less spendy). I have an ivory cribbage board, and think I'll obtain some camel bone for comparison before putting this option before the review committee.

                  Hardness is certainly a design factor, as is expansion with humidity.

                  For the counters... I've been thinking that there's no reason to restrict myself to using the same white material for the counters as the board, so regardless of the board material, I think I'm going with Boxwood and ebony.

                  Jeff

                  --- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, Jim Hart <conalohairt@...> wrote:
                  >
                  > Putting it next to ebony there are a lot of woods that will be of high
                  > enough contrast to
                  > work. Maple, holly. Ebony is dark enough for you to use almost anything.
                  >
                  > http://www.exoticwood.biz/woodchart.htm
                  >
                  > Consider how hard the two woods are. I'm going to use an extreme example to
                  > make the point but you would not want to use maple and pine together because
                  > that maple is so much harder than the pine and will sand or scrape smooth at
                  > much different rates. 7You want to choose two woods that have working
                  > properties that are similar.
                  >
                  > I have not worked with either ebony or holly before so this may not be an
                  > issue with those two specific woods.
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  > Unless you already have the ebony.... If this is for an SCA person, are
                  > there exotics that are close in color to the primary colors of their
                  > device/arms? That could make the project go one step farther
                  > to really impress the recipient.
                  >
                  > On Fri, Dec 17, 2010 at 7:40 PM, Jeffrey Johnson <jljonsn@...> wrote:
                  >
                  > >
                  > >
                  > > Hmmm... might go for the Holly. I priced the mammoth ivory and $22 per
                  > > board square or counter is a tad spendy.
                  > > On Dec 17, 2010 8:28 AM, "Jeff" <jljonsn@...> wrote:
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > > I'm making a gameboard. I have ebony, but need a white material. I have
                  > > boatloads of Holly & Maple and enough Box for the job. I had considered
                  > > ivory, but the antique stuff seems outside any reasonable budget. Plastic
                  > > ivory seems too perfect looking, and I'd really rather avoid it unless I
                  > > have no other options. Objective is authenticity, as this is for very public
                  > > display for a reenacting group.
                  > > >
                  > > > Any recommendations what to go with?
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > >
                  > >
                  > >
                  >


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