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Re: [MedievalSawdust] Tooling for 6BC

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  • AlbionWood
    Thanks to Duncan and Lee for pointing Thomas to explanations for T&G and spline joints. Both can be cut with hand tools, though I erred in saying a T&G could
    Message 1 of 101 , Dec 1, 2010
      Thanks to Duncan and Lee for pointing Thomas to explanations for T&G and
      spline joints. Both can be cut with hand tools, though I erred in
      saying a T&G could be cut with only a rabbet (rebate) plane - that's
      true only for the tongue part. The groove requires a plow plane
      (examples of which are left as an exercise to the linky reader). I'm
      not sure how far back the plow plane can be documented; it is not
      outside the capability of the medieval planemaker, I just can't remember
      if I've seen an example of one. But I have seen a groove in a XVc
      French chest that looked exactly how a plowed groove would.

      The spline joint is perhaps easier to cut than the T&G. Set the plow
      plane and cut both grooves, then plane down a strip to a snug fit. This
      is trickier than it sounds though, you need really good plane technique
      to get a strip of equal thickness all the way across and full-length.
      Very strong joint when glued.

      Now, for your question about the toolkit for a 6BC, if you're starting
      with rough sawn lumber, I think the minimum set would be:
      Workbench, with holdfasts and dogs and wedges, to hold the work
      Crosscut saw
      Ripsaw
      Narrow-bladed Bowsaw
      Jack plane
      Jointer plane
      Spoon auger, or brace and bit
      Hand chisel
      Hammer and anvil

      First level the faces of the boards with the jack plane. Then rip to
      width with the ripsaw. Straighten the edges with the jointer plane.
      (Edge-join if necessary to make desired widths.) Crosscut to length.
      Cut out arches on end-boards with bowsaw. Drill holes for pegs at each
      end of front and back boards, then mark and drill holes into edges of
      end-boards. Make pegs by splitting with wide chisel, plane to square
      size, plane off corners to octagonal. Peg in the front and back boards,
      then fit in the bottom board. Drill and peg two holes in each end to
      fix bottom board in place, then repeat along the front and back with as
      many pegs as seems necessary. Chamfer all exposed edges with a plane or
      chisel. Attach hinges to lid and back with soft iron square nails,
      clinching against the anvil.

      The best period ways to hold the work are the holdfasts and the
      dogs/wedges. The holdfast is used when you are performing an operation
      like sawing, where you are pushing down on one end of a board and the
      holdfast keeps the other end down. Planing is done against a dog; and
      the dogs and wedges work together to hold the piece in position. The
      workbench, with its dogs, wedges, and holdfast, is the single most
      important tool.

      There are numerous variations on the 6BC and the order of work described
      above is far from the only way to do it; just the simplest I've come up
      with.

      Cheers,
      Tim
    • Bill McNutt
      Odds are, Brendon is not talking to me. From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Brendon Sent: Sunday,
      Message 101 of 101 , Dec 12, 2010

        Odds are, Brendon is not talking to me.

         

        From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Brendon
        Sent: Sunday, December 12, 2010 1:19 AM
        To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
        Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] RE: Guild restrictions

         

         

        did you have a good flight back babe?

         

        On 2/12/2010, at 12:54 PM, D. Young wrote:



         

        Some examples of what I was referring to....


        Viking age ring hinge (which I suspect would be forge welded)
        http://www.asbrand.com/pics/projects/mastermyr_chest/mastermyr_chest_hinge_02.png
        http://codesmiths.com/shed/boxes/norse/strap_hinges.jpg

        By contrast 16th and 17th century gimlet or ring hinge:
        http://www.abbey-web.net/6536%20%284%29.jpg
        http://www.mmarkley.com/chests/1034-chest-hinge.jpg

        Butterfly hinges with screws:
        http://www.tewkesburyiron.co.uk/admin/images/Half_Butterfly_Hinge_2_11344.jpeg (replica but shows how screws were used, being somewhat counterintuitive to the modern mind as easily removable....but screw drivers and such tools were not necessarily readily available as they are today, minimizing theft)


        --Drew

         


         

        Fine Armour and Historical Reproductions

             Custom Commissions Welcome....!

        www.partsandtechnical.com
        (Well Formed Munitions Catalog Coming This Spring)

         




        To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
        From: furnaceplans@...
        Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2010 18:42:02 -0500
        Subject: RE: [MedievalSawdust] RE: Guild restrictions

         

        "Surprisingly, many common woodworking techniques were not as ubiquitous as one might think throughout SCA time. There are often subtle differences that can help identify a specific time, region or culture for a piece."

        --I agree with this absolutely.

        My angle was that it can be tricky to weed out later repairs from period construction.   As a good example my 1640 chest has screws in the hinges.   Some antique dealers feel the use of screws indicates a repair or replacement of the rivets as screws were not widely used until the 18th century.   However I have found more than ample evidence in wooden pieces from the 1500s such as gun powder horns, and screws and bolts were used on armour since at least the 15th century, so clearly screwed technology (ahem) was around.

        Now the point here is that screw drivers were not as common, and so removing a screw was not quite as easy simple as it is now.   Ive seen screws over lock plates to that very end, suggesting that a technique we deem as commonplace or anachronistic may have been employed.   

        Another example is ring hinges.....these drive me crazy because we see them on well made joyed boxes with heavy carving....clearly an expensive chest.....yet using a very primitive type of hinge.   I have theorized the ring hinge may have something to do with green wood furniture not yet having "settled" into place....or possibly just a vogue in something retro....whats old is new is a reoccuring theme we do see at least in the Renaissance period (heck the very word means rebirth).    So while we see viking chests like the Mastermyr chest with ring hinges that seems to fit with that era, we also know standered barrel hinges were used as well.    And because of that duality I cannot, at least right now, see any clear pattern or reasoning for why some pieces used barrel hinges and why some used ring hinges or gimlets.  


        --Drew



         


         

        Fine Armour and Historical Reproductions

             Custom Commissions Welcome....!

        www.partsandtechnical.com
        (Well Formed Munitions Catalog Coming This Spring)

         




        To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
        From: ewdysar@...
        Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2010 22:03:47 +0000
        Subject: [MedievalSawdust] RE: Guild restrictions

         

        I believe that the point that was trying to be made with guild restriction was not about who might or might not be doing the work. I think that guild restriction were being used as proof of accepted techniques. If the guild restricited a given technique's use, then it was obviously a common or accepted technique for that time period and location.

        Since this group is interested specifically when and where certain techniques were used, this can be good information. I'll throw out a topic that comes up now and again as an example.

        Is dovetail joinery correct for 10th century Britain? This question immediately falls to finding the earliest extant example of dovetail joinery from the area. I know that there are extant examples of sliding dovetails in Norse woodworking finds (various box lids), but I have yet to see an example of pin and tail dovetails in any Norse chest. Some 90 deg lap joints have an angled shoulder, but I don't really consider that to be dovetailed.

        Surprisingly, many common woodworking techniques were not as ubiquitous as one might think throughout SCA time. There are often subtle differences that can help identify a specific time, region or culture for a piece.

        Eirikr

        --- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, "D. Young" <furnaceplans@...> wrote:
        >
        > Im not saying guild rule and restrictions were not held many times. To that extent I agree Will.
        >
        > What Im saying is that there is ample extant evidence that such rules were bent on occasion particularly outside of a major city, the long arm of the law and that of guilds was weaker.
        >
        > Or with respect to a client who wanted something that fell between say joyners and boarders.
        >
        > Now I approach this from an armouring point of view in which I can assuredly say that there is able reason to believe guild restrictions were not as hard and fast as we might think.
        >
        > If companies often get away with substandard things today....recalls constantly for safety and crappy products.....I believe this only proves my point.
        >
        > People have been trying to skirt the rules since the first guy got busted but the temptation remained. Human nature.
        >
        > If it happened in the armour world, which is arguably the highest craft of the middle ages due to its skill level and critical importance.....I have no doubt it happened with furniture on occassion
        >

         

         

         

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