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Re: [MedievalSawdust] shoulder yoke

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  • leaking pen
    I would want the tight grain on top, since thats where it needs to hold and not split under weight, and the wide grain at the bottom, where there will be a
    Message 1 of 9 , May 4 9:49 AM
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      I would want the tight grain on top, since thats where it needs to hold and not split under weight, and the wide grain at the bottom, where there will be a greater bend.

      Also, not too light, as its got to be strong and stretchy. My gut would be pine, particularly ponderosa, as its less sappy and stronger.  (plus, ive im hauling loads, id love to smell the vanilla as i do so. )  if you want a hard hardwood, cherry would work.

      On Mon, May 3, 2010 at 7:10 PM, Sean Powell <powell.sean@...> wrote:
       

      Shoulder yoke like for carrying 2 buckets? I'm fairly certain Roy Underhill did one of these as a project. The reason I recall it is he was remarking about the shell wood of a tree being stronger then the core because of the rate at which it grows and the density of the growth rings. He specifically started his from a split 1/4 log so that the tighter gran would be at the bottom and thus remain for the arms extending to either side.

      My memory is known to be inaccurate at times thought. It might be worth checking out.

      I'm going to go out on a limb and say that the lighter the wood is the happier you will be carying it. Also there is a lot of carving, not cutting so the wood needs to carve well. My gut instinct would be for linden wood but tulip poplar is cheap and readily available near me and I'll be damned if a farmer is going to be picky about a chunk of wood for his shoulders. It's a yoke for water buckets, not a long-bow.

      Sean



      On 5/3/2010 9:01 PM, Conal O'hAirt Jim Hart wrote:
      anyone have a link to plans so I can maybe get an idea
      before I start.... I just want to get some rough ideas 
      about sizes and dimensions. 
       
      Baron Conal O'hAirt / Jim Hart

      Aude Aliquid Dignum
      ' Dare Something Worthy '



      From: Conal O'hAirt Jim Hart <baronconal@...>
      To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
      Sent: Mon, May 3, 2010 8:56:50 PM
      Subject: [MedievalSawdust] shoulder yoke

       
      If you were gonna make a shoulder yoke for carrying
      loads what new world wood would you choose?

      why that choice?


       
      Baron Conal O'hAirt / Jim Hart

      Aude Aliquid Dignum
      ' Dare Something Worthy '




    • conradh@efn.org
      ... Drew Langsner, in his first book _Country Woodcraft_ says the wood should be easy to carve, fairly lightweight, yet quite strong. He recommends thoroughly
      Message 2 of 9 , May 4 10:09 AM
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        On Mon, May 3, 2010 5:56 pm, Conal O'hAirt Jim Hart wrote:
        > If you were gonna make a shoulder yoke for carrying
        > loads what new world wood would you choose?
        >
        > why that choice?
        >

        Drew Langsner, in his first book _Country Woodcraft_ says the wood should
        be easy to carve, fairly lightweight, yet quite strong. He recommends
        thoroughly seasoned to avoid checking. He suggests tulip poplar, bass and
        pine. Chapter 17, pp. 176-9 of that book is about making a yoke. There's
        a new edition out, ISTR with a title change, and of course chapter and
        page numbers might be different.

        I've not made one, though I'd like to sometime. A northern wood I might
        add to his Southern list would be clear spruce if you can find some. So
        strong and light that it was the favored wood for airplane props and spars
        back when those were made of wood--and still valued by builders of
        traditional wooden boats for booms and yards. The sort of twist carved
        into a wooden propeller suggests to me that the shoulder-hollow of a yoke
        shouldn't cause too much weakening if spruce were used.

        FWIW.
        Ulfhedinn
      • Conal O'hAirt Jim Hart
        I m considering working with green wood and doing most of the shaping while the wood is wet and then after it dries finishing it up... It seems to me the
        Message 3 of 9 , May 4 11:10 AM
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          I'm considering working with green wood and
          doing most of the shaping while the wood is
          'wet' and then after it dries finishing it up...

          It seems to me the kind of project to do for
          a first experience in working green wood...
          It does not have to be pretty for it to work.
           
          Baron Conal O'hAirt / Jim Hart

          Aude Aliquid Dignum
          ' Dare Something Worthy '



          From: "conradh@..." <conradh@...>
          To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
          Sent: Tue, May 4, 2010 1:09:06 PM
          Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] shoulder yoke

           

          On Mon, May 3, 2010 5:56 pm, Conal O'hAirt Jim Hart wrote:
          > If you were gonna make a shoulder yoke for carrying
          > loads what new world wood would you choose?
          >
          > why that choice?
          >

          Drew Langsner, in his first book _Country Woodcraft_ says the wood should
          be easy to carve, fairly lightweight, yet quite strong. He recommends
          thoroughly seasoned to avoid checking. He suggests tulip poplar, bass and
          pine. Chapter 17, pp. 176-9 of that book is about making a yoke. There's
          a new edition out, ISTR with a title change, and of course chapter and
          page numbers might be different.

          I've not made one, though I'd like to sometime. A northern wood I might
          add to his Southern list would be clear spruce if you can find some. So
          strong and light that it was the favored wood for airplane props and spars
          back when those were made of wood--and still valued by builders of
          traditional wooden boats for booms and yards. The sort of twist carved
          into a wooden propeller suggests to me that the shoulder-hollow of a yoke
          shouldn't cause too much weakening if spruce were used.

          FWIW.
          Ulfhedinn


        • Wm G
          China tree. Strong, hard, and VERY light. Grow it yourself. RileyG
          Message 4 of 9 , May 4 3:05 PM
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            China tree. Strong, hard, and VERY light. Grow it yourself.
            RileyG
            On Mon, 2010-05-03 at 17:56 -0700, Conal O'hAirt Jim Hart wrote:
            >
            >
            >
            > If you were gonna make a shoulder yoke for carrying
            > loads what new world wood would you choose?
            >
            >
            > why that choice?
            >
            >
            >
            >
            > Baron Conal O'hAirt / Jim Hart
            >
            > Aude Aliquid Dignum
            > ' Dare Something Worthy '
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
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