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Re: [MedievalSawdust] shoulder yoke

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  • Jeffrey Johnson
    Ash. Strong and light On May 3, 2010 7:10 PM, Sean Powell wrote: Shoulder yoke like for carrying 2 buckets? I m fairly certain Roy
    Message 1 of 9 , May 3, 2010

      Ash. Strong and light

      On May 3, 2010 7:10 PM, "Sean Powell" <powell.sean@...> wrote:

       

      Shoulder yoke like for carrying 2 buckets? I'm fairly certain Roy Underhill did one of these as a project. The reason I recall it is he was remarking about the shell wood of a tree being stronger then the core because of the rate at which it grows and the density of the growth rings. He specifically started his from a split 1/4 log so that the tighter gran would be at the bottom and thus remain for the arms extending to either side.

      My memory is known to be inaccurate at times thought. It might be worth checking out.

      I'm going to go out on a limb and say that the lighter the wood is the happier you will be carying it. Also there is a lot of carving, not cutting so the wood needs to carve well. My gut instinct would be for linden wood but tulip poplar is cheap and readily available near me and I'll be damned if a farmer is going to be picky about a chunk of wood for his shoulders. It's a yoke for water buckets, not a long-bow.

      Sean



      On 5/3/2010 9:01 PM, Conal O'hAirt Jim Hart wrote:
      >
      > anyone have a link to plans so I can maybe ...

    • tessa_rat
      Something low density. i.e. pine or poplar. You are going to want large dimensions to distribute the load over more area. A low density wood will still be
      Message 2 of 9 , May 4, 2010
        Something low density. i.e. pine or poplar.

        You are going to want large dimensions to distribute the load over more area. A low density wood will still be plenty strong but will weight less.

        Ash is a wonderful wood (I use it on all my tent poles), but is still pretty high density (european ash is even denser than white oak) Also, oak and ash were valuable commercial woods for furniture, weapon shafts, bows, etc. Why use an expensive wood where a cheaper wood will actually work better?

        Both poplar and pine were used in period, but I haven't done much research into the character of european species, so I'm just guessing that the commonly available U.S. lumber will be an appropriate substitute. Anyone have any insight into that?

        My two pfennigs worth,

        Fritz Wilhelm
        welldressedtent.com

        --- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, Conal O'hAirt Jim Hart <baronconal@...> wrote:
        >
        > If you were gonna make a shoulder yoke for carrying
        > loads what new world wood would you choose?
        >
        > why that choice?
        >
        >
        > Baron Conal O'hAirt / Jim Hart
        >
        > Aude Aliquid Dignum
        > ' Dare Something Worthy '
        >
      • leaking pen
        I would want the tight grain on top, since thats where it needs to hold and not split under weight, and the wide grain at the bottom, where there will be a
        Message 3 of 9 , May 4, 2010
          I would want the tight grain on top, since thats where it needs to hold and not split under weight, and the wide grain at the bottom, where there will be a greater bend.

          Also, not too light, as its got to be strong and stretchy. My gut would be pine, particularly ponderosa, as its less sappy and stronger.  (plus, ive im hauling loads, id love to smell the vanilla as i do so. )  if you want a hard hardwood, cherry would work.

          On Mon, May 3, 2010 at 7:10 PM, Sean Powell <powell.sean@...> wrote:
           

          Shoulder yoke like for carrying 2 buckets? I'm fairly certain Roy Underhill did one of these as a project. The reason I recall it is he was remarking about the shell wood of a tree being stronger then the core because of the rate at which it grows and the density of the growth rings. He specifically started his from a split 1/4 log so that the tighter gran would be at the bottom and thus remain for the arms extending to either side.

          My memory is known to be inaccurate at times thought. It might be worth checking out.

          I'm going to go out on a limb and say that the lighter the wood is the happier you will be carying it. Also there is a lot of carving, not cutting so the wood needs to carve well. My gut instinct would be for linden wood but tulip poplar is cheap and readily available near me and I'll be damned if a farmer is going to be picky about a chunk of wood for his shoulders. It's a yoke for water buckets, not a long-bow.

          Sean



          On 5/3/2010 9:01 PM, Conal O'hAirt Jim Hart wrote:
          anyone have a link to plans so I can maybe get an idea
          before I start.... I just want to get some rough ideas 
          about sizes and dimensions. 
           
          Baron Conal O'hAirt / Jim Hart

          Aude Aliquid Dignum
          ' Dare Something Worthy '



          From: Conal O'hAirt Jim Hart <baronconal@...>
          To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
          Sent: Mon, May 3, 2010 8:56:50 PM
          Subject: [MedievalSawdust] shoulder yoke

           
          If you were gonna make a shoulder yoke for carrying
          loads what new world wood would you choose?

          why that choice?


           
          Baron Conal O'hAirt / Jim Hart

          Aude Aliquid Dignum
          ' Dare Something Worthy '




        • conradh@efn.org
          ... Drew Langsner, in his first book _Country Woodcraft_ says the wood should be easy to carve, fairly lightweight, yet quite strong. He recommends thoroughly
          Message 4 of 9 , May 4, 2010
            On Mon, May 3, 2010 5:56 pm, Conal O'hAirt Jim Hart wrote:
            > If you were gonna make a shoulder yoke for carrying
            > loads what new world wood would you choose?
            >
            > why that choice?
            >

            Drew Langsner, in his first book _Country Woodcraft_ says the wood should
            be easy to carve, fairly lightweight, yet quite strong. He recommends
            thoroughly seasoned to avoid checking. He suggests tulip poplar, bass and
            pine. Chapter 17, pp. 176-9 of that book is about making a yoke. There's
            a new edition out, ISTR with a title change, and of course chapter and
            page numbers might be different.

            I've not made one, though I'd like to sometime. A northern wood I might
            add to his Southern list would be clear spruce if you can find some. So
            strong and light that it was the favored wood for airplane props and spars
            back when those were made of wood--and still valued by builders of
            traditional wooden boats for booms and yards. The sort of twist carved
            into a wooden propeller suggests to me that the shoulder-hollow of a yoke
            shouldn't cause too much weakening if spruce were used.

            FWIW.
            Ulfhedinn
          • Conal O'hAirt Jim Hart
            I m considering working with green wood and doing most of the shaping while the wood is wet and then after it dries finishing it up... It seems to me the
            Message 5 of 9 , May 4, 2010
              I'm considering working with green wood and
              doing most of the shaping while the wood is
              'wet' and then after it dries finishing it up...

              It seems to me the kind of project to do for
              a first experience in working green wood...
              It does not have to be pretty for it to work.
               
              Baron Conal O'hAirt / Jim Hart

              Aude Aliquid Dignum
              ' Dare Something Worthy '



              From: "conradh@..." <conradh@...>
              To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
              Sent: Tue, May 4, 2010 1:09:06 PM
              Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] shoulder yoke

               

              On Mon, May 3, 2010 5:56 pm, Conal O'hAirt Jim Hart wrote:
              > If you were gonna make a shoulder yoke for carrying
              > loads what new world wood would you choose?
              >
              > why that choice?
              >

              Drew Langsner, in his first book _Country Woodcraft_ says the wood should
              be easy to carve, fairly lightweight, yet quite strong. He recommends
              thoroughly seasoned to avoid checking. He suggests tulip poplar, bass and
              pine. Chapter 17, pp. 176-9 of that book is about making a yoke. There's
              a new edition out, ISTR with a title change, and of course chapter and
              page numbers might be different.

              I've not made one, though I'd like to sometime. A northern wood I might
              add to his Southern list would be clear spruce if you can find some. So
              strong and light that it was the favored wood for airplane props and spars
              back when those were made of wood--and still valued by builders of
              traditional wooden boats for booms and yards. The sort of twist carved
              into a wooden propeller suggests to me that the shoulder-hollow of a yoke
              shouldn't cause too much weakening if spruce were used.

              FWIW.
              Ulfhedinn


            • Wm G
              China tree. Strong, hard, and VERY light. Grow it yourself. RileyG
              Message 6 of 9 , May 4, 2010
                China tree. Strong, hard, and VERY light. Grow it yourself.
                RileyG
                On Mon, 2010-05-03 at 17:56 -0700, Conal O'hAirt Jim Hart wrote:
                >
                >
                >
                > If you were gonna make a shoulder yoke for carrying
                > loads what new world wood would you choose?
                >
                >
                > why that choice?
                >
                >
                >
                >
                > Baron Conal O'hAirt / Jim Hart
                >
                > Aude Aliquid Dignum
                > ' Dare Something Worthy '
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
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