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Re: Mastermyr chest

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  • Eric
    All of my random Viking 6 board chests have legs from the end boards extending below the bottom board like the Mastermyr. To pick them up, I just reach
    Message 1 of 12 , Oct 19, 2009
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      All of my random Viking 6 board chests have "legs" from the end boards extending below the bottom board like the Mastermyr. To pick them up, I just reach around the front and back and grab the bottom, it works well even with the Mastermyr fully loaded with tools, currently about 55 pounds.

      Along that line, if you are planning on using the chest as a tool box, the original Mastermyr is surprisingly well sized, I would not scale it up at all. It holds full size hand saws and all sorts of other tools. If the chest was any bigger, it could get unwieldy as it got loaded up with heavy stuff. The hollowed lid really makes a difference, it lightens the empty box and lets you load the box with funny shaped items that wouldn't fit otherwise.

      I like the fact that it is highly functional and more than "almost" documentable. It's nice item to own, mine was well worth the effort...

      Eirikr

      --- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, Brian Wagner <hrothgar950@...> wrote:
      >
      > Just wish I could find early period documentation for rope handled chests.
      > Even a chest with a couple holes in each end...
      > Hrothgar / Brian
      >
      >
      > On Mon, Oct 19, 2009 at 9:15 AM, Bill McNutt <mcnutt@...> wrote:
      >
      > >
      > >
      > > Putting handles on it also reduces the amount of kvetching you get from
      > > household members.
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > *From:* medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
      > > medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Brian Wagner
      > > *Sent:* Monday, October 19, 2009 10:02 AM
      > > *To:* medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
      > > *Subject:* Re: [MedievalSawdust] Mastermyr chest
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > My camp chests are all Mastermyr inspired to a degree. I too like the
      > > half-lap corner joint. I also like the out-sloping chest ends. I kept the
      > > from & back vertical, which avoids the compound angles, and just used a flat
      > > 3/4" plan lid rather than a thicker lid with hollowed interior. I have
      > > about 7 in various lengths that I use regularly - I made them all the same
      > > height so that they make a nice packing platform in the bottom of my
      > > trailer. I had to break down and add rope handles to the one for my tools,
      > > as it was a bit heavy to lift without. Reminds me, I need to make another
      > > for the lathe stuff...
      > >
      > >
      > > Hrothgar Fiscabana
      > >
      > > Kingdom of Gleann Abhann
      > >
    • Eric
      Hrothgar, I have also made about a dozen of Viking 6 board chests, mostly starting with 1x12 pine. Like you I keep the fronts and backs vertical for
      Message 2 of 12 , Oct 19, 2009
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        Hrothgar,

        I have also made about a dozen of Viking 6 board chests, mostly starting with 1x12 pine. Like you I keep the fronts and backs vertical for simplicity and to keep the interior volume as large as possible. I use a plain 1x12 for the lid too. If I'm in a hurry I just do a full lap joint to simplify the joinery.

        My latest kick has been to plane the fronts and backs down to 3/8" and the bottom to 1/2". The empty chest is lighter and these simple changes actually increase the interior volume of a 24" long chest more than 10% with no changes to the outside dimension.

        Eirikr
        Ashgrove, Barony of Angels, Caid

        --- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, Brian Wagner <hrothgar950@...> wrote:
        >
        > My camp chests are all Mastermyr inspired to a degree. I too like the
        > half-lap corner joint. I also like the out-sloping chest ends. I kept the
        > from & back vertical, which avoids the compound angles, and just used a flat
        > 3/4" plan lid rather than a thicker lid with hollowed interior. I have
        > about 7 in various lengths that I use regularly - I made them all the same
        > height so that they make a nice packing platform in the bottom of my
        > trailer. I had to break down and add rope handles to the one for my tools,
        > as it was a bit heavy to lift without. Reminds me, I need to make another
        > for the lathe stuff...
        > Hrothgar Fiscabana
        > Kingdom of Gleann Abhann
        >
        >
      • Iain mac an Bhaird
        I built a half-scale version without the fancy hardware a couple years back as a gift to our Royalty. Was pretty straightforward. -Iain
        Message 3 of 12 , Oct 19, 2009
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          I built a half-scale version without the fancy hardware a couple years back as a gift to our Royalty.  Was pretty straightforward.

          -Iain

          Anyone here done a mastermry reproduction/inspired chest?
          What did you learn in the process?
          What advice would you offer before I start?
          Anything surprise you?
          Anything not work like you thought it would?
          Thanks in advance!
          Baron Conal O'hAirt / Jim Hart

          Aude Aliquid Dignum
          ' Dare Something Worthy '
        • conradh@efn.org
          ... Eirikr is quite right on this one--I ve had a weakness all my life for building boxes that were too large, and then of course filling them. Somehow,
          Message 4 of 12 , Oct 20, 2009
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            On Mon, October 19, 2009 2:09 pm, Eric wrote:
            > All of my random Viking 6 board chests have "legs" from the end boards
            > extending below the bottom board like the Mastermyr. To pick them up, I
            > just reach around the front and back and grab the bottom, it works well
            > even with the Mastermyr fully loaded with tools, currently about 55
            > pounds.
            >
            > Along that line, if you are planning on using the chest as a tool box,
            > the original Mastermyr is surprisingly well sized, I would not scale it
            > up at all. It holds full size hand saws and all sorts of other tools.
            > If the chest was any bigger, it could get unwieldy as it got loaded up
            > with heavy stuff. The hollowed lid really makes a difference, it
            > lightens the empty box and lets you load the box with funny shaped items
            > that wouldn't fit otherwise.
            >
            Eirikr is quite right on this one--I've had a weakness all my life for
            building boxes that were too large, and then of course filling them.
            Somehow, though, they seem heavier than they did thirty years ago...

            I'm trying to reform. I'm going to try to hold my new iron chest for
            smithy tools at events to under 100 lbs. And if that doesn't work, I'll
            go metric and try to keep it under fifty kilos.

            Long enough for a handsaw is a good dimension, so many mundane boxes can't
            manage that. But if you go for a box that long, it's good to give up on
            the idea of making it tall enough for a stool or sawing support! Try to
            include all those functions, and it gets tippy. So you make it deeper
            front to back...

            I also try to remember that "bursten" (severe hernia) was a fairly common
            cause of death for workers in the old Mortality Bills.

            Ulfhedinn
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