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Re: [MedievalSawdust] Mastermyr chest

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  • Brian Wagner
    Just wish I could find early period documentation for rope handled chests. Even a chest with a couple holes in each end... Hrothgar / Brian
    Message 1 of 12 , Oct 19, 2009
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      Just wish I could find early period documentation for rope handled chests.  Even a chest with a couple holes in each end...
       
      Hrothgar / Brian


      On Mon, Oct 19, 2009 at 9:15 AM, Bill McNutt <mcnutt@...> wrote:
       

      Putting handles on it also reduces the amount of kvetching you get from household members. 

       

      From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Brian Wagner
      Sent: Monday, October 19, 2009 10:02 AM
      To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
      Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Mastermyr chest

       

       

      My camp chests are all Mastermyr inspired to a degree.  I too like the half-lap corner joint.  I also like the out-sloping chest ends.  I kept the from & back vertical, which avoids the compound angles, and just used a flat 3/4" plan lid rather than a thicker lid with hollowed interior.  I have about 7 in various lengths that I use regularly - I made them all the same height so that they make a nice packing platform in the bottom of my trailer.  I had to break down and add rope handles to the one for my tools, as it was a bit heavy to lift without.  Reminds me, I need to make another for the lathe stuff...


      Hrothgar Fiscabana

      Kingdom of Gleann Abhann

      On Mon, Oct 19, 2009 at 1:10 AM, <conradh@...> wrote:

       

      On Sun, October 18, 2009 8:33 am, Conal O'hAirt Jim Hart wrote:
      > Anyone here done a mastermry reproduction/inspired chest?
      >
      >
      > What did you learn in the process?
      > What advice would you offer before I start?
      > Anything surprise you?
      > Anything not work like you thought it would?

      I've never tried an actual replica of the Mastermyr box, but after seeing
      it I used the "Norse half-lap" (or whatever the official name for the
      corner joint is) on several wooden chests. I like it, enough to use it on
      a tool tote and at least one other non-period box over the years.

      What I do have considerable practice with is the hardware. I really like
      Norse ironwork (making a replica Oseberg lamp is what got me into
      blacksmithing in the first place, lo these 35 years ago) and I've made
      four Mastermyr-style chest locks and plenty of the hook-and-eye style
      hinges as well. I can supply irons for your replica, or coach you through
      making your own if you prefer.

      The locks are really cool. One key in the middle opens both hasps
      simultaneously. You insert the key and work it into place--tolerances are
      loose and the key is fairly unconfined in there, so finding the proper
      place for it is not so automatic as it is with a modern lock. When the
      key is seated, it's turned ninety degrees, which brings its teeth past the
      wards and through the sliding plate, where they lift the locksprings clear
      of the tab that's bent up on the end of the plate. Now the key becomes an
      operating handle, as you use it to slide the whole lockplate and lockbar
      sideways. This pulls the tips of the lockbar free of the hasps, and they
      pop open. The lid is liftable now. Locking is the reverse: close the lid
      and push the hasps home, then use the key to slide the bar back until you
      hear the springs click down.

      Tre Tryckare's book _The Vikings_ has a three-panel drawing showing the
      operation, which is what I used to build my first copy. Look at it if you
      have it, but do realize that they screwed up and printed the illo upside
      down and inside out. It doesn't match the captions at all, but it finally
      made sense once you realized that you were standing on your head inside
      the box.

      I assume you have, or have access to, Arwidsson and Berg's _The Mastermyr
      Find_? It has some archaeological drawings, descriptions and photos. My
      copy is English language but printed in Stockholm; I've heard there's been
      another edition made over here at some point. If you don't have the book
      or have trouble getting it, I could copy you the relevant info.

      Ulfhedinn

       


    • Eric
      All of my random Viking 6 board chests have legs from the end boards extending below the bottom board like the Mastermyr. To pick them up, I just reach
      Message 2 of 12 , Oct 19, 2009
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        All of my random Viking 6 board chests have "legs" from the end boards extending below the bottom board like the Mastermyr. To pick them up, I just reach around the front and back and grab the bottom, it works well even with the Mastermyr fully loaded with tools, currently about 55 pounds.

        Along that line, if you are planning on using the chest as a tool box, the original Mastermyr is surprisingly well sized, I would not scale it up at all. It holds full size hand saws and all sorts of other tools. If the chest was any bigger, it could get unwieldy as it got loaded up with heavy stuff. The hollowed lid really makes a difference, it lightens the empty box and lets you load the box with funny shaped items that wouldn't fit otherwise.

        I like the fact that it is highly functional and more than "almost" documentable. It's nice item to own, mine was well worth the effort...

        Eirikr

        --- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, Brian Wagner <hrothgar950@...> wrote:
        >
        > Just wish I could find early period documentation for rope handled chests.
        > Even a chest with a couple holes in each end...
        > Hrothgar / Brian
        >
        >
        > On Mon, Oct 19, 2009 at 9:15 AM, Bill McNutt <mcnutt@...> wrote:
        >
        > >
        > >
        > > Putting handles on it also reduces the amount of kvetching you get from
        > > household members.
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > *From:* medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
        > > medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Brian Wagner
        > > *Sent:* Monday, October 19, 2009 10:02 AM
        > > *To:* medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
        > > *Subject:* Re: [MedievalSawdust] Mastermyr chest
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > My camp chests are all Mastermyr inspired to a degree. I too like the
        > > half-lap corner joint. I also like the out-sloping chest ends. I kept the
        > > from & back vertical, which avoids the compound angles, and just used a flat
        > > 3/4" plan lid rather than a thicker lid with hollowed interior. I have
        > > about 7 in various lengths that I use regularly - I made them all the same
        > > height so that they make a nice packing platform in the bottom of my
        > > trailer. I had to break down and add rope handles to the one for my tools,
        > > as it was a bit heavy to lift without. Reminds me, I need to make another
        > > for the lathe stuff...
        > >
        > >
        > > Hrothgar Fiscabana
        > >
        > > Kingdom of Gleann Abhann
        > >
      • Eric
        Hrothgar, I have also made about a dozen of Viking 6 board chests, mostly starting with 1x12 pine. Like you I keep the fronts and backs vertical for
        Message 3 of 12 , Oct 19, 2009
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          Hrothgar,

          I have also made about a dozen of Viking 6 board chests, mostly starting with 1x12 pine. Like you I keep the fronts and backs vertical for simplicity and to keep the interior volume as large as possible. I use a plain 1x12 for the lid too. If I'm in a hurry I just do a full lap joint to simplify the joinery.

          My latest kick has been to plane the fronts and backs down to 3/8" and the bottom to 1/2". The empty chest is lighter and these simple changes actually increase the interior volume of a 24" long chest more than 10% with no changes to the outside dimension.

          Eirikr
          Ashgrove, Barony of Angels, Caid

          --- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, Brian Wagner <hrothgar950@...> wrote:
          >
          > My camp chests are all Mastermyr inspired to a degree. I too like the
          > half-lap corner joint. I also like the out-sloping chest ends. I kept the
          > from & back vertical, which avoids the compound angles, and just used a flat
          > 3/4" plan lid rather than a thicker lid with hollowed interior. I have
          > about 7 in various lengths that I use regularly - I made them all the same
          > height so that they make a nice packing platform in the bottom of my
          > trailer. I had to break down and add rope handles to the one for my tools,
          > as it was a bit heavy to lift without. Reminds me, I need to make another
          > for the lathe stuff...
          > Hrothgar Fiscabana
          > Kingdom of Gleann Abhann
          >
          >
        • Iain mac an Bhaird
          I built a half-scale version without the fancy hardware a couple years back as a gift to our Royalty. Was pretty straightforward. -Iain
          Message 4 of 12 , Oct 19, 2009
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            I built a half-scale version without the fancy hardware a couple years back as a gift to our Royalty.  Was pretty straightforward.

            -Iain

            Anyone here done a mastermry reproduction/inspired chest?
            What did you learn in the process?
            What advice would you offer before I start?
            Anything surprise you?
            Anything not work like you thought it would?
            Thanks in advance!
            Baron Conal O'hAirt / Jim Hart

            Aude Aliquid Dignum
            ' Dare Something Worthy '
          • conradh@efn.org
            ... Eirikr is quite right on this one--I ve had a weakness all my life for building boxes that were too large, and then of course filling them. Somehow,
            Message 5 of 12 , Oct 20, 2009
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              On Mon, October 19, 2009 2:09 pm, Eric wrote:
              > All of my random Viking 6 board chests have "legs" from the end boards
              > extending below the bottom board like the Mastermyr. To pick them up, I
              > just reach around the front and back and grab the bottom, it works well
              > even with the Mastermyr fully loaded with tools, currently about 55
              > pounds.
              >
              > Along that line, if you are planning on using the chest as a tool box,
              > the original Mastermyr is surprisingly well sized, I would not scale it
              > up at all. It holds full size hand saws and all sorts of other tools.
              > If the chest was any bigger, it could get unwieldy as it got loaded up
              > with heavy stuff. The hollowed lid really makes a difference, it
              > lightens the empty box and lets you load the box with funny shaped items
              > that wouldn't fit otherwise.
              >
              Eirikr is quite right on this one--I've had a weakness all my life for
              building boxes that were too large, and then of course filling them.
              Somehow, though, they seem heavier than they did thirty years ago...

              I'm trying to reform. I'm going to try to hold my new iron chest for
              smithy tools at events to under 100 lbs. And if that doesn't work, I'll
              go metric and try to keep it under fifty kilos.

              Long enough for a handsaw is a good dimension, so many mundane boxes can't
              manage that. But if you go for a box that long, it's good to give up on
              the idea of making it tall enough for a stool or sawing support! Try to
              include all those functions, and it gets tippy. So you make it deeper
              front to back...

              I also try to remember that "bursten" (severe hernia) was a fairly common
              cause of death for workers in the old Mortality Bills.

              Ulfhedinn
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