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Re: [MedievalSawdust] Viking box chair

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  • AlbionWood
    What do the vertical pieces on the inside of the sides do? I can t see the lugs for the ropes - how are they made? Clever way to avoid making tusk-tenons!
    Message 1 of 3 , Jun 16, 2009
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      What do the vertical pieces on the inside of the sides do?

      I can't see the lugs for the ropes - how are they made?  Clever way to avoid making tusk-tenons!

      Cheers,
      Tim


      bayard_turner wrote:
      My thanks to all who responded to my plea for plans for a knock-down throne.  Langdon Greymore sent me plans for a chair based on a box chair found in the Oseberg ship burial  His plans could make two chairs from a single sheet of 3/4" plywood.
      
      I started working on that plan, but the sheet of birch faced plywood I purchased from a local big box was so full of voids that I ended up returning it.  Then the time panic went away when someone offered to bring a carved throne from another shire.
      
      By then, however, I told folks I was building a Viking box chair, and one friend was really excited to see it through.  As I was contemplating the cost of better plywood, I remembered that I'd bought some 8/4 white ash for a different project, and had enough left for the posts.  I decided to go for the chair as designed in Langdon's plans, but with two changes - I'd use solid ash for the posts and and rails, and at my friend's request, added a board seat rather than the woven rope seat in the plans (and on the original).
      
      I finished it tonight and handed it off to Hrodir so he could take it to the Lily's war this weekend.  I've posted pictures on my Facebook page, which you should be able to access at http://tinyurl.com/myyqxw
      
      The chair knocks down into 5 pieces.  I used no mechanical fasteners - the front and back rails are glued into mortises and pegged with Miller step dowels.  The sides slide into mortises in the legs, and the whole thing is held together with ropes that run though lugs attached to the front and back under the seat.
      
      I did make a couple of concession based on its planned use at outdoor events - I used Titebond III waterproof glue, and used Minwax wiping poly to provide long-term protection.
      
      Take a look and let me know your thoughts.  
      
      Bayard
      
      
      
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    • bayard_turner
      The sides are basically 2 pieces of 3/4 x 3.5 ash with a 1/4 dado to accept the field panel. They slide into a 3/4 wide stopped dado. I added 1/4 wide
      Message 2 of 3 , Jun 16, 2009
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        The sides are basically 2 pieces of 3/4" x 3.5" ash with a 1/4" dado to accept the field panel. They slide into a 3/4" wide stopped dado. I added 1/4" wide strips to each side of the ends of the panel so the stopped dado was filled top to bottom (next time, I'll cut the panel shorter and add solid "stiles" on each end, grooved to fit the panel, with tenons to glue into the rails top and bottom) The way I built them meant I needed the vertical strips to hold the rails at the right spacing for the panel and to provide support against racking.

        The lugs were added after I took the pictures. I started with a scrap of hard maple, 1" x 1-5/8" x 6". I plowed a 1/2"x1/2" dado along the 1-5/8" face, and then sliced off 5/8" wide pieces. I glued them in place, and then pegged them down with step dowels.

        It was a fun project, and trading it away means I get stuff I need for fencing, and I get to make all the mistakes on this one, and build mine correctly. ;-)

        Bayard
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