Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

[Fwd: Re: [MedievalSawdust] RE: Bellows -- was Hinges]

Expand Messages
  • conradh@efn.org
    Sorry about that-computer sent the message just before I finished. ... No plans or article yet, but the valves are simple flap valves. For this kind of
    Message 1 of 1 , May 19, 2009
    • 1 Attachment
    • 3 KB
    Sorry about that-computer sent the message just before I finished.
    > On Sat, May 16, 2009 2:08 pm, leaking pen wrote:
    >> id love theplans for that fruit carton bellows, how the valve is set
    > up?
    No plans or article yet, but the valves are simple flap valves. For this
    kind of improvised rig, just use a scrap of cardboard or stiff plastic
    over a hole in the box. The hole should be 3-4 inches across to bring in
    enough air, and the flap needs to be stiff enough to not distort over such
    a hole during the output stroke. A scrap of 1/8 inch thick modelmaker's
    plywood is ideal, or thin aluminum plate. Whatever you use, be careful
    not to distort its flatness while you cut it out. It should overlap the
    hole by an inch or so all around, be light enough you can lift it by
    blowing on it sharply. Duct tape will do fine for a hinge.

    I prefer to lay out the bellows so that the intake valves are closed by
    default, and lift open when the intake stroke begins. Sometimes this means
    you have to leave an air channel along the bottom of the bellows.
    (Mounting the rig on a complete or partial cargo pallet is an easy way of
    doing this)
    Also: you may need to rig some kind of thread, glued stick or flap over
    the valve as a limiting stop so that it cannot flip all the way over; if
    it does a full 180 in there it's not going to close again!

    If your situation calls for intake valves at the top, they'll hang open by
    default, and you'll need to make sure they don't hang so far open that the
    beginning of the output stroke can't blow them shut and seal them. Try
    sewing through the cardboard with stout thread or monofilament, from the
    edge of the hole to the lip of the valve flap, and stitching or gluing it
    so that the valve can only open a couple of inches. That will insure that
    the rush of air will be able to catch and close it properly.

    If you find you get too much leakage around the edges of your valves, glue
    scraps of felt or suede around the hole by way of a gasket.

    For more permanent, period-type bellows I like to mount each valve on a
    removable wooden frame held in place by turnbuttons. Taking the leather
    or canvas off a bellows for repairs is major surgery, and trying to fix an
    intake valve in place is worse than building a ship in a bottle (You can
    see through a bottle!) With the removable valve, you can "unbutton" it in
    a moment for troubleshooting, and the hole it mounted in becomes an access
    port for jobs such as sewing a patch on the leather. Access is a good
    thing; I heard of a smith once who sewed a patch over a hole a mouse had
    gnawed in his bellows, and thought he was done. Later the bellows stopped
    working. He took it apart and found the mouse had died in there, and the
    corpse had migrated down to the outlet and plugged it! For these simple,
    dumpster-diver specials though, just pull the two halves apart and you
    have complete access.

    The air outlet can be as simple as a scrap of pipe (metal, plastic, or
    cardboard tube) glued or taped into a snug hole at a spot where it won't
    block the action.

    Hope this helps, and I'll try to do a good pictorial when I have a bit
    more time.

Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.