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Re: [MedievalSawdust] Re: 18th century brace (drill)

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  • Wolf
    I was thinking the same thing, Tim. I resort to stains when I m impatient and don t want to wait for the natural patina to form. :-) On the smooth out with
    Message 1 of 31 , Dec 16, 2008
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      I was thinking the same thing, Tim. I resort to stains when I'm
      impatient and don't want to wait for the natural patina to form. :-)

      On the "smooth out with use" comment - I have some tools that were my
      grandfather's when he was a young farmer in East Texas (1930's). On a
      hammer, the handle "feels" like it was sanded by 180-200 grit sandpaper.
      The "sweet spot" (where you'd typically grip the handle), it's darn near
      glass smooth. On the drawknife, only the pear shape of the handles
      allows you to keep a grip - the handles are as silky smooth as the most
      expensive of dining-room tables.

      And these are handles he *made*, not factory handles. :-))

      ~L~

      PS: To put myself in the frame of mind of our medieval forebears, I just
      think about how my grandfather would have done it - he made the
      high-chair used by my mother, aunt, and eventually daughter, using only
      an axe and a rasp!

      On Tue, 2008-12-16 at 09:20 -0800, AlbionWood wrote:
      > Well, that's red oak for you. It should smooth out with use, which
      > will also provide the most authentic finish: the natural patina from
      > the
      > oils on your hands and the grime from work. I really doubt most
      > medieval hand tools received any other finish.
      >
      > Cheers,
      > Tim
      >
      > Dave wrote:
      > > Plain beeswax is probably my best choice for my own
      > > situation, besides it fills in the pores of the oak well (I have
      > > raised the grain with water twice and I still cannot sand it down
      > > satisfactorily).
      >
      >
      >
      >
    • Hall, Hayward
      No, it doesn t have to, but a finish, especially oil, is going to retard swelling and shrinking from moisture which leads to splitting. Since there s no
      Message 31 of 31 , Jan 6, 2009
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        No, it doesn't have to, but a finish, especially oil, is going to retard
        swelling and shrinking from moisture which leads to splitting. Since
        there's no disadvantage, why not? By far, the antique tools in my
        collection that have an intact finish have faired better.

        Guillaume

        -----Original Message-----
        From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
        [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of AlbionWood
        Sent: Monday, December 15, 2008 11:39 AM
        To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
        Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Re: 18th century brace (drill)

        Why assume you need any finish on it at all?

        If it's made of a suitable hardwood, just start using it. If you don't
        like the feel of raw wood, rub some wax in to make it more comfortable.

        Not every wooden item must have a "finish" applied to it.

        Cheers,
        Tim


        Dave wrote:
        > I haven't got the slightest idea about splitting, sorry, I don't have
        > much experience here. I only just completed it and I haven't even
        > tested it out yet. I was waiting to put the finish on it first, but I
        > have not heard any input from anyone here yet on authentic finishes
        > for tools.
        >

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