Re: Period slat bed plans
- --- In email@example.com, "James Winkler"
> >> It looks good, but my only concern is the canvas in the middle.
> rip, etc. <<good
> Yea. I think I'd consult one of them 'sewing people' for tips. some
> heavy tarp material (the kind ya' find at Farm&Barn or some such) wouldgrommets to
> probably do quite well. with double rolled hems around for the
> set in.As one of "them sewing people" :-) I would recommend using tent weight
canvas (10-14 oz) & follow the directions Chas mentioned earlier.
(Double rolled hem is folding the edge of the fabric twice over itself
about 1.5 inches.) One will still not be able to use it like a
trampoline; however, it will put up with a lot of abuse.
Use the large grommets which have metal on both sides. The type you
would see on boat sails. Place your grommets about 4-6 inches apart.
The most important is making sure the canvas is under high and even
tension. Do not be surprised as time goes on the distance between the
canvas & wood gets smaller.
Though I have not experimented with this option myself, I have heard
using 3 inch strips of canvas & weaving them together as another
option instead of rope. Though I am not sure of the "periodness" of this.
Ana de Granada
- I made a pair of Glastonbury style chairs out of 1x pine. I chose this material for the cost effectiveness and for the reason that it was a new design attempt for me. They have been going strong for a few years now and have been to many demos and festivals over the years. As these were a prototype, I am waiting for them to become unusable before rebuilding out of a more expensive hardwood. It appears that I may have some more time to wait.Lagerstein----- Original Message -----From: Rapier3971@...Sent: Tuesday, December 02, 2008 1:05 PMSubject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Re: wood to use
I also made one of my first folding "X" Dantesca chairs out of pine with leather seat and back and that was over five years ago. It has been all over the east coast to multiple events and is still in very good shape and it was inexpensive to make compared to some of my walnut or oak examples.
From: Eric <ewdysar@yahoo. com>
To: medievalsawdust@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Tue, 2 Dec 2008 11:58 am
Subject: [MedievalSawdust] Re: wood to useWhen I set out to make a couple of the German Faeldstools (x-chairs)
from the Oakley plans, I made the first 2 out of clear 1x pine. I
followed those up with some made of oak. The pine versions use 1/4"
steel rod for the hinges, I didn't want to weaken the boards with
bigger holes and 1/4" dowel didn't seem strong enough. All of them
are still in great condition, the pine ones are holding up just fine.
--- In medievalsawdust@ yahoogroups. com, Rebekah d'Avignon
<rebekahdavignon@ ...> wrote:
> My Lord......I beg to differ.
> I make "X" chairs and sell them at events. Now....by "X" chair I
mean that the pieces literally form an "X". Perhaps an "X" seat is
more descriptive. ..
> But no matter what wood you use, it will get dinged up as it is
pitched into the back of a minivan, SUV, or trailer or as armor,
tentpoles, and other equipment is tossed in on top of it.
> AlbionWood <albionwood@ ...> wrote:
> +1 to what John LaTorre said.
> You can get away with pine for a bed, but I would never recommend
it for an X-frame chair.