RE: [MedievalSawdust] Re: Period slat bed plans
- Actually the method of construction in the
referenced article is basically the same as 18th
& 19th Century British folding Campaign beds used
- refer to previous posts about Chippendale's
book of designs which included campaign
furniture. If you make the rope long enough ( and
in several pieces) you can just slacken it off
that the whole thing folds up. Standard design
with canvas tarps is to fold over the edge a
couple of inches, often with a further reinforce
added, then punch thru' the doubling & insert
metal eyelets (period is to form an eyelet with
button hole stitch and include an iron or brass
ring within the over stitching).
Brusi of Orkney
> >> It looks good, but my only concern is the
> canvas in the middle Stretch, rip, etc <<
>Yea I think Id consult one of them sewing
>people for tips some good heavy tarp material
>(the kind ya find at Farm&Barn or some such)
>would probably do quite well with double rolled
>hems around for the grommets to set in
- I made a pair of Glastonbury style chairs out of 1x pine. I chose this material for the cost effectiveness and for the reason that it was a new design attempt for me. They have been going strong for a few years now and have been to many demos and festivals over the years. As these were a prototype, I am waiting for them to become unusable before rebuilding out of a more expensive hardwood. It appears that I may have some more time to wait.Lagerstein----- Original Message -----From: Rapier3971@...Sent: Tuesday, December 02, 2008 1:05 PMSubject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Re: wood to use
I also made one of my first folding "X" Dantesca chairs out of pine with leather seat and back and that was over five years ago. It has been all over the east coast to multiple events and is still in very good shape and it was inexpensive to make compared to some of my walnut or oak examples.
From: Eric <ewdysar@yahoo. com>
To: medievalsawdust@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Tue, 2 Dec 2008 11:58 am
Subject: [MedievalSawdust] Re: wood to useWhen I set out to make a couple of the German Faeldstools (x-chairs)
from the Oakley plans, I made the first 2 out of clear 1x pine. I
followed those up with some made of oak. The pine versions use 1/4"
steel rod for the hinges, I didn't want to weaken the boards with
bigger holes and 1/4" dowel didn't seem strong enough. All of them
are still in great condition, the pine ones are holding up just fine.
--- In medievalsawdust@ yahoogroups. com, Rebekah d'Avignon
<rebekahdavignon@ ...> wrote:
> My Lord......I beg to differ.
> I make "X" chairs and sell them at events. Now....by "X" chair I
mean that the pieces literally form an "X". Perhaps an "X" seat is
more descriptive. ..
> But no matter what wood you use, it will get dinged up as it is
pitched into the back of a minivan, SUV, or trailer or as armor,
tentpoles, and other equipment is tossed in on top of it.
> AlbionWood <albionwood@ ...> wrote:
> +1 to what John LaTorre said.
> You can get away with pine for a bed, but I would never recommend
it for an X-frame chair.