Re: [MedievalSawdust] wood to use
- My Lord......I beg to differ.I make "X" chairs and sell them at events. Now....by "X" chair I mean that the pieces literally form an "X". Perhaps an "X" seat is more descriptive. The seats fold to less than 4" thick and (like the child's rhyme of "here is the church, here is the steeple....") the part you sit on forms as it unfolds. I start with 2 x 4s (not studs), actually they are the highest quality 2 x 4s that I can find and rip them on a table saw. I get 3 cuts per width so that the final pieces are 1" wide and 1 1/2" thick. The hinge motion is accomplished by using hardwood dowels 1/2" thick. I have demonstrated how strong they are at events by, not only sitting in one, but by bouncing up and down on it.....and I ain't no pixie. I venture to say that an armored fighter can sit on on with no fear of it collapsing. Part of the reason is due to the strength of the wood and part is due to the weight being spread over 12 pieces.But no matter what wood you use, it will get dinged up as it is pitched into the back of a minivan, SUV, or trailer or as armor, tentpoles, and other equipment is tossed in on top of it.
AlbionWood <albionwood@...> wrote:+1 to what John LaTorre said.
You can get away with pine for a bed, but I would never recommend it for an X-frame chair. (And frankly I wouldn't make a bed out of it either, because it will get dinged up too quickly. But my time frame seems to be different from most folks'... I expect a piece of furniture to last a lifetime, at least.) The joinery on an X-frame requires a lot of strength in the wood, more than pine can offer, IMO.
Tim.RdA"I ask, sir, what is the militia? It is the whole people, except for a few public offiials." George Mason"Before a standing army can rule, the people must be disarmed; as they are in almost every kingdom in Europe." Noah Webster
- I made a pair of Glastonbury style chairs out of 1x pine. I chose this material for the cost effectiveness and for the reason that it was a new design attempt for me. They have been going strong for a few years now and have been to many demos and festivals over the years. As these were a prototype, I am waiting for them to become unusable before rebuilding out of a more expensive hardwood. It appears that I may have some more time to wait.Lagerstein----- Original Message -----From: Rapier3971@...Sent: Tuesday, December 02, 2008 1:05 PMSubject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Re: wood to use
I also made one of my first folding "X" Dantesca chairs out of pine with leather seat and back and that was over five years ago. It has been all over the east coast to multiple events and is still in very good shape and it was inexpensive to make compared to some of my walnut or oak examples.
From: Eric <ewdysar@yahoo. com>
To: medievalsawdust@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Tue, 2 Dec 2008 11:58 am
Subject: [MedievalSawdust] Re: wood to useWhen I set out to make a couple of the German Faeldstools (x-chairs)
from the Oakley plans, I made the first 2 out of clear 1x pine. I
followed those up with some made of oak. The pine versions use 1/4"
steel rod for the hinges, I didn't want to weaken the boards with
bigger holes and 1/4" dowel didn't seem strong enough. All of them
are still in great condition, the pine ones are holding up just fine.
--- In medievalsawdust@ yahoogroups. com, Rebekah d'Avignon
<rebekahdavignon@ ...> wrote:
> My Lord......I beg to differ.
> I make "X" chairs and sell them at events. Now....by "X" chair I
mean that the pieces literally form an "X". Perhaps an "X" seat is
more descriptive. ..
> But no matter what wood you use, it will get dinged up as it is
pitched into the back of a minivan, SUV, or trailer or as armor,
tentpoles, and other equipment is tossed in on top of it.
> AlbionWood <albionwood@ ...> wrote:
> +1 to what John LaTorre said.
> You can get away with pine for a bed, but I would never recommend
it for an X-frame chair.