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Re: choosing wood.

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  • Ystyll
    Depends on the need of the project. If we are making a bar, we use Oak, or another pretty hardwood. For our feasting tables, and most of our strucual stuff we
    Message 1 of 14 , Oct 31, 2008
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      Depends on the need of the project.

      If we are making a bar, we use Oak, or another pretty hardwood.
      For our feasting tables, and most of our strucual stuff we use Pine.

      Oh the joys of tearing through a bunker of 2x12s at the Home Despot to
      get 5 pieces that are not split.

      I do that because we are cheap, and often make things for our friends
      whose income is not affected by the tax increase on folks who make a
      quarter mill per year.

      If we want to do a proto-type, pine is the cheapest. It can be a pain
      to use high speed modern carving tools such as a lathe, router, dremel
      etc.

      We have become very good at getting free wood.

      I pillage the kids throwing away dorm lofts for 4x4s and 2x6s
      I have a friend who works somewhere that throws out hard wood pallets
      made with red oak and maple 3x4s.

      Someone who keeps the books at a sawmill gave us oak 2x12s which we
      made a bar from.

      freecycle and criagslist has supplied me with recycled hardwoods as
      well. Some guy bought a closed wood workers shop, and I hauled a
      truckload of hardwood planks of various sizes away.

      You have to work within the limits of the free wood, but glue,
      biscuits, dowels, and clamps can make it to any size you want.

      So my way of deciding, is to find a project to match the wood, or
      sometimes I see a piece, and it screams out a projects name.
      I found the most lovely sheet of 3/4 inch pine ply with a ton of blue
      in it. It screamed out feasting/gaming table. I stored it for a couple
      years before we got around to making it. Had to trim the edges to hide
      that it was plywood of course, but it came out nice.
    • conradh@efn.org
      ... Don t forget maple, beech if you can get it, and some of the Mediterranean woods. Iberian craftspeople use a lot of olive wood, which might be available
      Message 2 of 14 , Nov 3, 2008
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        On Fri, October 31, 2008 7:13 am, AlbionWood wrote:
        > I've generally started out with a short list of woods that IMO are
        > reasonably close to European woods used in period, in terms of appearance
        > and character. SO most of my stuff has been made of white oak, walnut, or
        > ash. My projects have mostly been intended for outdoor/camping/tourney
        > use, so things like pine or poplar are usually out of the question because
        > they aren't durable enough. Price is a secondary consideration, because
        > the cost of the wood is only a small fraction of the value of my labor.

        Don't forget maple, beech if you can get it, and some of the Mediterranean
        woods. Iberian craftspeople use a lot of olive wood, which might be
        available from California sources as well. It turns very nicely, and
        with a bit of stain myrtlewood might pass for it. :-)

        If you befriend tree surgeons or city arborists, a lot of European trees
        are over here as street ornamentals. Lots and lots of white birch (good
        for traditional broom making too!) Norway pine (what the English have been
        importing as "deal" since the Middle Ages) and others depending on your
        climate. Check with orchardists too--most of our fruit trees were brought
        here from Europe. English walnut doesn't have the reputation among
        American cabinetmakers that native black walnut has, but it's a very
        attractive wood and quite strong--I've made medium and large handscrews
        out of it.

        Ulfhedinn

        FWIW, Douglas Fir is also a native European wood, if you go back far
        enough. Very early period, though--the glaciers exterminated it in the Old
        World during the first of the Ice Ages.
      • Kel Rekuta
        Regular alcohol based leather dyes work fine for brightly coloured wood grain. They are colour fast and relatively inexpensive. If you like that sort of
        Message 3 of 14 , Nov 4, 2008
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          Regular alcohol based leather dyes work fine for brightly coloured
          wood grain. They are colour fast and relatively inexpensive. If you
          like that sort of thing... ;-) I prefer paint for brightly coloured
          projects.

          Kel

          --- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, Rebekah d'Avignon
          <rebekahdavignon@...> wrote:
          >
          > I recently had a need for blue wood. Take regular food coloring and
          dilute it AT LEAST 1:2 with alcohol - that's 1 part color to 2 parts
          alcohol. One to four might be better. You can always make it darker,
          but once it's there - you're stuck.
          >
          > This will allow the grain of the wood to show through. I
          understand that MinWax has colored stains, but the local stores hadn't
          stocked them when I checked last.
          >
          >
          > Bill McNutt <mcnutt@...> wrote:
          > Speaking of inlay - I don't suppose anyone has
          encountered a blue wood.
          >
          > Will
          >
          >
          > .
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          > RdA
          > Tools alone do not a craftsman make.
          >
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