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Re: enlarging a 1 1/4 inch hole

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  • Ted Kocot
    Just so I know, is this end grain we re cutting? Is it through or stopped? If you have a bit of the right size, I d kind of use your idea, only I d cut a kerf
    Message 1 of 26 , Oct 6, 2008
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      Just so I know, is this end grain we're cutting? Is it through or
      stopped?

      If you have a bit of the right size, I'd kind of use your idea, only
      I'd cut a kerf in the end of my piece of dowel (and drill a hole
      though the bottom) and then attach this plug to my drill bit. It will
      have to be pretty carefully centered but it will save you having to
      drill out all that wood twice.

      If you don't have the drill bit, what I would try is making something
      like a scratch stock out of a cheap Xacto-gouge blade and a piece of
      one inch dowel.

      Avery
    • Alessandro dEste
      ... Chas could you exsplain this. Sandro
      Message 2 of 26 , Oct 6, 2008
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        --- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, James Winkler <jrwinkler@...>
        wrote:

        > D: do that "shave the spoke" thing... best option in my opinion
        > ...

        > Chas.
        >

        Chas could you exsplain this.
        Sandro
      • James Winkler
        ;-) The spoke shave thing I refered to was basically using a spoke shave to taper the ends of the dowels to fit the existing holes rather than enlarging
        Message 3 of 26 , Oct 6, 2008
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          ;-)    The “spoke shave thing” I refered to was basically using a spoke shave to taper the ends of the dowels to fit the existing holes rather than enlarging the holes…   (-:    Not exactly the desired form of solution… but a practical one none the less…

           

          Commercial tapered reamers *might* be useful… but most of them I’ve seen have a relatively sever taper…  my suggestion  for turning a taper was to make it gentle enough that, by working from both sides of the plank, you’d have minimal material in the center to remove  (running a taper in from both sides of the hole would create a bit of an “hourglass” effect on the hole.  

           

          Chas.

           

          ==================

          > D: do that "shave the spoke" thing... best option in my opinion
          > ...

          > Chas.
          >

          Chas could you exsplain this.
          Sandro

           

        • Bill Schongar (bschonga)
          Use a 1 drum sander chucked in a drill or a drill press. Or if you have some of the old pole, glue it into the old hole and then redrill. -Liam
          Message 4 of 26 , Oct 6, 2008
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            Use a 1" drum sander chucked in a drill or a drill press.
             
            Or if you have some of the "old" pole, glue it into the old hole and then redrill.
             
            -Liam
             
             
             


            From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Conal O'hAirt Jim Hart
            Sent: Sunday, October 05, 2008 8:10 AM
            To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
            Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Re:enlarging a 1 1/4 inch hole

            as a practical problem....

            I could make them over.... Wouldn't be all that hard I just
            didn't want to waste the centers.

            Remember I did say 'easy' in the original question. There is
            a threshold for starting over. I'm just wondering if that point
            is where I think it is and was looking for other ideas. Something
            I may not have thought of.

            (  a detail I should have shared )
            I used a larger ( off the top of my head I do not recall the size )
            round-over router bit on the rim of the center hole already so
            there is not sharp edge to used to line up a router bit.

            I think I'm gonna plug the top of the hole and redrill with
            a new flat/spade bit ( I didn't have a 1 3/8" bit anyway so
            this was an excuse to buy a new one )


             
            Baron Conal O'hAirt / Jim Hart

            Aude Aliquid Dignum
            ' Dare Something Worthy '


            ----- Original Message ----
            From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo. co.uk>
            To: medievalsawdust@ yahoogroups. com
            Sent: Saturday, October 4, 2008 2:53:56 PM
            Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Re:enlarging a 1 1/4 inch hole

            Um - my time is worth more to me than the cost of a replacement length of Dowelling.
            So, if it was me, as a professional woodworker, I'd either replace the staff dowelling, or make a new banner-base central workpiece.
            However, as a practical problem to solve - and given the equipment I have at my disposal , available in my workshop, - I think I'd set the workpiece up under my floor-standing- pillar-drill, - very carefully "centred" and well clamped in place, and - with the drill running at the kind of slow speed I use for drilling metal, - enlarge first section of the bore with a Forstner bit to the max depth of the bit-shank; - then change to a newly-sharpened flat-bit of the same size, but a long-shank, and finish the boring from the same end with that.
            Enlarging the first section of the bore with a Forstner bit will make lining-up the flat-bit for the second "pass" much easier.
            I certainly wouldn't try enlarging the bore with a hand-held power-tool.
            And the problem I see with trying to use a plunge-router  and a cutter with a bottom bearing is the depth available for the "plunge", plus the second-"set- up" to come at the undersized bore from the other end. Our questioner needed to go to a 5- or 6- inch total depth, IIRC.

            In service to the medieval Dream,
            Matthew Baker
            in the SCA
            [aka Julian Wilson, in 2008]


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