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RE: [MedievalSawdust] enlarging a 1 1/4 inch hole

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  • Wolf
    On Sun, 2008-10-05 at 12:42 -0500, James Winkler wrote: ... What, a small thermo-nuclear device? That d work, but if you mis-calculate just a tiny bit,
    Message 1 of 26 , Oct 5, 2008
      On Sun, 2008-10-05 at 12:42 -0500, James Winkler wrote:

      <snip>
      >
      > K: you could... ummm... nope... that wouldn't work... never mind...
      >
      >
      >
      > Chas.
      >

      What, a small thermo-nuclear device? That'd work, but if you
      mis-calculate just a tiny bit, all you'd end up with is glow-in-the-dark
      toothpicks...
    • Royce
      That d be real cool. I d buy those.. You can never find a good toothpick late at night when ya reeeaaaalllly need one. Bercilak From:
      Message 2 of 26 , Oct 5, 2008

        That’d be real cool…

         

        I’d buy those..  You can never find a good toothpick late at night when ya reeeaaaalllly need one…

         

        Bercilak

         

         

        From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Wolf
        Sent: Sunday, October 05, 2008 7:08 PM
        To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
        Subject: RE: [MedievalSawdust] enlarging a 1 1/4 inch hole

         

        On Sun, 2008-10-05 at 12:42 -0500, James Winkler wrote:

        <snip>

        >
        > K: you could... ummm... nope... that wouldn't work... never mind...
        >
        >
        >
        > Chas.
        >

        What, a small thermo-nuclear device? That'd work, but if you
        mis-calculate just a tiny bit, all you'd end up with is glow-in-the-dark
        toothpicks...

      • James Winkler
        mind reader!!! ;-) Chas. ================== On Sun, 2008-10-05 at 12:42 -0500, James Winkler wrote: ... What, a small thermo-nuclear device? That d
        Message 3 of 26 , Oct 5, 2008

          … mind reader!!!     ;-)

           

          Chas.

          ==================

          On Sun, 2008-10-05 at 12:42 -0500, James Winkler wrote:

          <snip>

          >
          > K: you could... ummm... nope... that wouldn't work... never mind...
          >
          >
          >
          > Chas.
          >

          What, a small thermo-nuclear device? That'd work, but if you
          mis-calculate just a tiny bit, all you'd end up with is glow-in-the-dark
          toothpicks...

           

        • Ted Kocot
          Just so I know, is this end grain we re cutting? Is it through or stopped? If you have a bit of the right size, I d kind of use your idea, only I d cut a kerf
          Message 4 of 26 , Oct 6, 2008
            Just so I know, is this end grain we're cutting? Is it through or
            stopped?

            If you have a bit of the right size, I'd kind of use your idea, only
            I'd cut a kerf in the end of my piece of dowel (and drill a hole
            though the bottom) and then attach this plug to my drill bit. It will
            have to be pretty carefully centered but it will save you having to
            drill out all that wood twice.

            If you don't have the drill bit, what I would try is making something
            like a scratch stock out of a cheap Xacto-gouge blade and a piece of
            one inch dowel.

            Avery
          • Alessandro dEste
            ... Chas could you exsplain this. Sandro
            Message 5 of 26 , Oct 6, 2008
              --- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, James Winkler <jrwinkler@...>
              wrote:

              > D: do that "shave the spoke" thing... best option in my opinion
              > ...

              > Chas.
              >

              Chas could you exsplain this.
              Sandro
            • James Winkler
              ;-) The spoke shave thing I refered to was basically using a spoke shave to taper the ends of the dowels to fit the existing holes rather than enlarging
              Message 6 of 26 , Oct 6, 2008

                ;-)    The “spoke shave thing” I refered to was basically using a spoke shave to taper the ends of the dowels to fit the existing holes rather than enlarging the holes…   (-:    Not exactly the desired form of solution… but a practical one none the less…

                 

                Commercial tapered reamers *might* be useful… but most of them I’ve seen have a relatively sever taper…  my suggestion  for turning a taper was to make it gentle enough that, by working from both sides of the plank, you’d have minimal material in the center to remove  (running a taper in from both sides of the hole would create a bit of an “hourglass” effect on the hole.  

                 

                Chas.

                 

                ==================

                > D: do that "shave the spoke" thing... best option in my opinion
                > ...

                > Chas.
                >

                Chas could you exsplain this.
                Sandro

                 

              • Bill Schongar (bschonga)
                Use a 1 drum sander chucked in a drill or a drill press. Or if you have some of the old pole, glue it into the old hole and then redrill. -Liam
                Message 7 of 26 , Oct 6, 2008
                  Use a 1" drum sander chucked in a drill or a drill press.
                   
                  Or if you have some of the "old" pole, glue it into the old hole and then redrill.
                   
                  -Liam
                   
                   
                   


                  From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Conal O'hAirt Jim Hart
                  Sent: Sunday, October 05, 2008 8:10 AM
                  To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
                  Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Re:enlarging a 1 1/4 inch hole

                  as a practical problem....

                  I could make them over.... Wouldn't be all that hard I just
                  didn't want to waste the centers.

                  Remember I did say 'easy' in the original question. There is
                  a threshold for starting over. I'm just wondering if that point
                  is where I think it is and was looking for other ideas. Something
                  I may not have thought of.

                  (  a detail I should have shared )
                  I used a larger ( off the top of my head I do not recall the size )
                  round-over router bit on the rim of the center hole already so
                  there is not sharp edge to used to line up a router bit.

                  I think I'm gonna plug the top of the hole and redrill with
                  a new flat/spade bit ( I didn't have a 1 3/8" bit anyway so
                  this was an excuse to buy a new one )


                   
                  Baron Conal O'hAirt / Jim Hart

                  Aude Aliquid Dignum
                  ' Dare Something Worthy '


                  ----- Original Message ----
                  From: julian wilson <smnco37@yahoo. co.uk>
                  To: medievalsawdust@ yahoogroups. com
                  Sent: Saturday, October 4, 2008 2:53:56 PM
                  Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Re:enlarging a 1 1/4 inch hole

                  Um - my time is worth more to me than the cost of a replacement length of Dowelling.
                  So, if it was me, as a professional woodworker, I'd either replace the staff dowelling, or make a new banner-base central workpiece.
                  However, as a practical problem to solve - and given the equipment I have at my disposal , available in my workshop, - I think I'd set the workpiece up under my floor-standing- pillar-drill, - very carefully "centred" and well clamped in place, and - with the drill running at the kind of slow speed I use for drilling metal, - enlarge first section of the bore with a Forstner bit to the max depth of the bit-shank; - then change to a newly-sharpened flat-bit of the same size, but a long-shank, and finish the boring from the same end with that.
                  Enlarging the first section of the bore with a Forstner bit will make lining-up the flat-bit for the second "pass" much easier.
                  I certainly wouldn't try enlarging the bore with a hand-held power-tool.
                  And the problem I see with trying to use a plunge-router  and a cutter with a bottom bearing is the depth available for the "plunge", plus the second-"set- up" to come at the undersized bore from the other end. Our questioner needed to go to a 5- or 6- inch total depth, IIRC.

                  In service to the medieval Dream,
                  Matthew Baker
                  in the SCA
                  [aka Julian Wilson, in 2008]


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