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RE: [SPAM][MedievalSawdust] Re: RE-Making a Trailer

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  • Tracy Swanson
    The closer the studs, the stronger the structure, but also the heavier. 24 would be the better option for a trailer - better yet, save on weight and use metal
    Message 1 of 13 , Jun 2 4:05 PM
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      The closer the studs, the stronger the structure, but also the heavier. 24" would be the better option for a trailer - better yet, save on weight and use metal studs. Once the sheeting is attached they become monolithic.
       
      In Magical Service,
      Malaki
       
      -----Original Message-----
      From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of gavin.kinkade
      Sent: Monday, June 02, 2008 9:40 AM
      To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
      Subject: [SPAM][MedievalSawdust] Re: RE-Making a Trailer

      rather simple question I hope.

      When making the studs for the walls, houses use 18 inches between
      studs? and garages and non-living spaces sometimes use 24 inches
      between studs?

      what would you guys recommend for stud distances? 18" or 24"?

      The trailer will be towed on the highway at speeds around 60 mph.

      Thanks
      Gavin

      --- In medievalsawdust@ yahoogroups. com, <maf@...> wrote:
      >
      > I stripped a trailer apart a couple of years ago for the frame and
      it had the black landscape fabric. You can buy the same fabric from
      an industrial fabric supplier, it's called endbond and last time I
      used it came in 60" wide rolls and was about $1 per linear yard if
      you purchased a 250 yard roll. It's nice it stops most water and will
      breath, they also use it for the underside of high end couches (as
      opposed to that really thin stuff on cheaper furniture). It only has
      one problem, it has an affinity for hydrocarbons. If you spill oil or
      grease on it they never come out because the polypropelene the
      endbound is made of bounds with it. You can also weld this fabric
      together with an impulse heater to make a very strong perfect seam.
      >
      > Mark
      >
      >
      >
      > ----- Original Message -----
      > From: Ralph Lindberg
      > To: medievalsawdust@ yahoogroups. com
      > Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 7:54 AM
      > Subject: [SPAM][MedievalSawd ust] Re: RE-Making a Trailer
      >
      >
      > You've already gotten some great advise, another idea is to use
      the
      > same material as RV manufacturers put underneath their plywood
      floors.
      > It is a (generally) black, woven fabric that allows water vapor to
      > pass, but stops the liquid. This allows the plywood to dry out
      (really
      > important)
      > You should be able to buy this material from your local RV store
      or
      > Camping World (chain camping supply store)
      > I couldn't find it on-line (in a 30 second search), but I know the
      > stuff exists and you can buy it, because I have bought and used it
      >
      > Ralg
      > AnTir
      >

    • Liedtke Goetz
      What about tension panels - like a hollow-core door? You could use the 1.5 *1 structural members with a 1/4 hardboard or plywood surface panel glued to the
      Message 2 of 13 , Jun 2 8:26 PM
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        What about tension panels - like a hollow-core door? You could use
        the 1.5"*1" structural members with a 1/4" hardboard or plywood surface
        panel glued to the structures (you can also use other fasteners). The
        skin acts as both a structural support (as in the 1/2" plywood
        mentioned in an earlier message) and as a tension member equivalent to
        the wire cross-braces.

        I have a closet filled with shelves made from tension panels and I
        put very heavy objects on the shelves.

        Götz

        --- Rebekah d'Avignon <rebekahdavignon@...> wrote:

        > Ripping a 2 x 4 into 3 pieces each being (a true) 1 1/2 x 1 in should
        > be strong enough. I would brace the leading end (front) to prevent
        > racking from the headwind....that is, run a support diagonally from
        > the top-front to the bottom-middle or bottom-rear. I know that some
        > of the box stores sell sheet aluminum, but you could probably go
        > cheaper at a specialty store. You also might want to check into
        > buying a wheel lock so that someone doesn't drive off with your
        > trailer (they cut the hitch locks). A good wheel lock will cost you a
        > couple hundred dollars, but it's cheaper than replacing everything.
        >
        > Just a thought.
        >
        >
        > RdA
        > Tools alone do not a craftsman make.
        >
        >
        >
      • Rebekah d'Avignon
        For some reason my browser (or whatever) doesn t like those strings. However, they have the Trimax wheel lock which is an example of what I was talking about.
        Message 3 of 13 , Jun 3 3:05 AM
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          For some reason my browser (or whatever) doesn't like those strings.
          However, they have the Trimax wheel lock which is an example of what I was talking about.


          Trevor Payne <littleaiden@...> wrote:
          Actually I would think something like this:

          http://www.heartlan dlock.com/ index.php? main_page= product_info&products_id= 46&zenid=2389d22f516f2 8e7f37b7f6169c02 f62

          Would be sufficient. I mean if the theives are willing to use a cutting torch to get at the trailer, no lock is going to keep them out. :)

          Aiden
          .




          RdA
          Tools alone do not a craftsman make.

        • Rebekah d'Avignon
          You are talking about a Torsion Box. I understand that they are incredibly strong and not difficult (there s a relative term) to make. One person made a
          Message 4 of 13 , Jun 3 3:25 AM
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            You are talking about a Torsion Box. I understand that they are incredibly strong and not difficult (there's a relative term) to make. One person made a torsion box shelf then considered listing his house as "For Sale: shelf with house attached".
             
            The point that I was trying to make (and others as well) is that the repeated pressure of air on the front of the trailer will  tend to push it into a parallelagram instead of a rectangle - like the mast on a ship. A round-nose trailer would help alleviate that, but is more difficult to make.


            Liedtke Goetz <goetzliedtke@...> wrote:
            What about tension panels - like a hollow-core door? You could use
            the 1.5"*1" structural members with a 1/4" hardboard or plywood surface
            panel glued to the structures (you can also use other fasteners). The
            skin acts as both a structural support (as in the 1/2" plywood
            mentioned in an earlier message) and as a tension member equivalent to
            the wire cross-braces.

            I have a closet filled with shelves made from tension panels and I
            put very heavy objects on the shelves.

            Götz
            .




            RdA
            Tools alone do not a craftsman make.

          • Liedtke Goetz
            ... That s probably the correct name. They are very strong. ... Well, the way that trailer manufacturers handle this is to build a vee-shaped nose. If you
            Message 5 of 13 , Jun 3 7:08 PM
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              --- Rebekah d'Avignon <rebekahdavignon@...> wrote:

              > You are talking about a Torsion Box.

              That's probably the correct name. They are very strong.

              > The point that I was trying to make (and others as well) is that
              > the repeated pressure of air on the front of the trailer will tend
              > to push it into a parallelagram instead of a rectangle - like the
              > mast on a ship.

              Well, the way that trailer manufacturers handle this is to build a
              vee-shaped nose. If you look at trailers in the parking lot of Lowes
              or Home Depot, the shorter trailers that can reasonably be expected to
              be in the "wind shadow" of the towing vehicle have flat fronts. Once
              you get to the larger trailers, you'll see vee-shaped fronts. If the
              trailer chassis is not vee-shaped, one can build the shape partially on
              the square front and partially on the tongue.

              Götz
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