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Re: [MedievalSawdust] Re: RE-Making a Trailer

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  • Trevor Payne
    Actually I would think something like this:
    Message 1 of 13 , Jun 2, 2008
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      Actually I would think something like this:

      http://www.heartlandlock.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=46&zenid=2389d22f516f28e7f37b7f6169c02f62

      Would be sufficient. I mean if the theives are willing to use a cutting torch to get at the trailer, no lock is going to keep them out. :)

      Aiden
      From: Rebekah d'Avignon <rebekahdavignon@...>
      .....
      You also might want to check into buying a wheel lock so that someone doesn't drive off with your trailer (they cut the hitch locks). A good wheel lock will cost you a couple hundred dollars, but it's cheaper than replacing everything.
       
      Just a thought.


      RdA
      Tools alone do not a craftsman make.


    • Tracy Swanson
      The closer the studs, the stronger the structure, but also the heavier. 24 would be the better option for a trailer - better yet, save on weight and use metal
      Message 2 of 13 , Jun 2, 2008
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        The closer the studs, the stronger the structure, but also the heavier. 24" would be the better option for a trailer - better yet, save on weight and use metal studs. Once the sheeting is attached they become monolithic.
         
        In Magical Service,
        Malaki
         
        -----Original Message-----
        From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of gavin.kinkade
        Sent: Monday, June 02, 2008 9:40 AM
        To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
        Subject: [SPAM][MedievalSawdust] Re: RE-Making a Trailer

        rather simple question I hope.

        When making the studs for the walls, houses use 18 inches between
        studs? and garages and non-living spaces sometimes use 24 inches
        between studs?

        what would you guys recommend for stud distances? 18" or 24"?

        The trailer will be towed on the highway at speeds around 60 mph.

        Thanks
        Gavin

        --- In medievalsawdust@ yahoogroups. com, <maf@...> wrote:
        >
        > I stripped a trailer apart a couple of years ago for the frame and
        it had the black landscape fabric. You can buy the same fabric from
        an industrial fabric supplier, it's called endbond and last time I
        used it came in 60" wide rolls and was about $1 per linear yard if
        you purchased a 250 yard roll. It's nice it stops most water and will
        breath, they also use it for the underside of high end couches (as
        opposed to that really thin stuff on cheaper furniture). It only has
        one problem, it has an affinity for hydrocarbons. If you spill oil or
        grease on it they never come out because the polypropelene the
        endbound is made of bounds with it. You can also weld this fabric
        together with an impulse heater to make a very strong perfect seam.
        >
        > Mark
        >
        >
        >
        > ----- Original Message -----
        > From: Ralph Lindberg
        > To: medievalsawdust@ yahoogroups. com
        > Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 7:54 AM
        > Subject: [SPAM][MedievalSawd ust] Re: RE-Making a Trailer
        >
        >
        > You've already gotten some great advise, another idea is to use
        the
        > same material as RV manufacturers put underneath their plywood
        floors.
        > It is a (generally) black, woven fabric that allows water vapor to
        > pass, but stops the liquid. This allows the plywood to dry out
        (really
        > important)
        > You should be able to buy this material from your local RV store
        or
        > Camping World (chain camping supply store)
        > I couldn't find it on-line (in a 30 second search), but I know the
        > stuff exists and you can buy it, because I have bought and used it
        >
        > Ralg
        > AnTir
        >

      • Liedtke Goetz
        What about tension panels - like a hollow-core door? You could use the 1.5 *1 structural members with a 1/4 hardboard or plywood surface panel glued to the
        Message 3 of 13 , Jun 2, 2008
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          What about tension panels - like a hollow-core door? You could use
          the 1.5"*1" structural members with a 1/4" hardboard or plywood surface
          panel glued to the structures (you can also use other fasteners). The
          skin acts as both a structural support (as in the 1/2" plywood
          mentioned in an earlier message) and as a tension member equivalent to
          the wire cross-braces.

          I have a closet filled with shelves made from tension panels and I
          put very heavy objects on the shelves.

          Götz

          --- Rebekah d'Avignon <rebekahdavignon@...> wrote:

          > Ripping a 2 x 4 into 3 pieces each being (a true) 1 1/2 x 1 in should
          > be strong enough. I would brace the leading end (front) to prevent
          > racking from the headwind....that is, run a support diagonally from
          > the top-front to the bottom-middle or bottom-rear. I know that some
          > of the box stores sell sheet aluminum, but you could probably go
          > cheaper at a specialty store. You also might want to check into
          > buying a wheel lock so that someone doesn't drive off with your
          > trailer (they cut the hitch locks). A good wheel lock will cost you a
          > couple hundred dollars, but it's cheaper than replacing everything.
          >
          > Just a thought.
          >
          >
          > RdA
          > Tools alone do not a craftsman make.
          >
          >
          >
        • Rebekah d'Avignon
          For some reason my browser (or whatever) doesn t like those strings. However, they have the Trimax wheel lock which is an example of what I was talking about.
          Message 4 of 13 , Jun 3, 2008
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            For some reason my browser (or whatever) doesn't like those strings.
            However, they have the Trimax wheel lock which is an example of what I was talking about.


            Trevor Payne <littleaiden@...> wrote:
            Actually I would think something like this:

            http://www.heartlan dlock.com/ index.php? main_page= product_info&products_id= 46&zenid=2389d22f516f2 8e7f37b7f6169c02 f62

            Would be sufficient. I mean if the theives are willing to use a cutting torch to get at the trailer, no lock is going to keep them out. :)

            Aiden
            .




            RdA
            Tools alone do not a craftsman make.

          • Rebekah d'Avignon
            You are talking about a Torsion Box. I understand that they are incredibly strong and not difficult (there s a relative term) to make. One person made a
            Message 5 of 13 , Jun 3, 2008
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              You are talking about a Torsion Box. I understand that they are incredibly strong and not difficult (there's a relative term) to make. One person made a torsion box shelf then considered listing his house as "For Sale: shelf with house attached".
               
              The point that I was trying to make (and others as well) is that the repeated pressure of air on the front of the trailer will  tend to push it into a parallelagram instead of a rectangle - like the mast on a ship. A round-nose trailer would help alleviate that, but is more difficult to make.


              Liedtke Goetz <goetzliedtke@...> wrote:
              What about tension panels - like a hollow-core door? You could use
              the 1.5"*1" structural members with a 1/4" hardboard or plywood surface
              panel glued to the structures (you can also use other fasteners). The
              skin acts as both a structural support (as in the 1/2" plywood
              mentioned in an earlier message) and as a tension member equivalent to
              the wire cross-braces.

              I have a closet filled with shelves made from tension panels and I
              put very heavy objects on the shelves.

              Götz
              .




              RdA
              Tools alone do not a craftsman make.

            • Liedtke Goetz
              ... That s probably the correct name. They are very strong. ... Well, the way that trailer manufacturers handle this is to build a vee-shaped nose. If you
              Message 6 of 13 , Jun 3, 2008
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                --- Rebekah d'Avignon <rebekahdavignon@...> wrote:

                > You are talking about a Torsion Box.

                That's probably the correct name. They are very strong.

                > The point that I was trying to make (and others as well) is that
                > the repeated pressure of air on the front of the trailer will tend
                > to push it into a parallelagram instead of a rectangle - like the
                > mast on a ship.

                Well, the way that trailer manufacturers handle this is to build a
                vee-shaped nose. If you look at trailers in the parking lot of Lowes
                or Home Depot, the shorter trailers that can reasonably be expected to
                be in the "wind shadow" of the towing vehicle have flat fronts. Once
                you get to the larger trailers, you'll see vee-shaped fronts. If the
                trailer chassis is not vee-shaped, one can build the shape partially on
                the square front and partially on the tongue.

                Götz
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