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RE-Making a Trailer

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  • gavin.kinkade
    Greatings group, This is a tad off topic, but hopefull someone can lend some helpful advice. I just bought a 4x8 trailer from a friend. Basically is a metal
    Message 1 of 9 , May 30, 2008
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      Greatings group,

      This is a tad off topic, but hopefull someone can lend some helpful
      advice.

      I just bought a 4x8 trailer from a friend. Basically is a metal
      frame, wheels, hitch, lights, and a plywood floor(rotting thru) Some
      simple bars for sides, and wooden wheel wells.

      I want to re-make the trailer and make it so its completely enclosed.
      I am going to build most of it with wood and exterior grade plywood.
      As I do not have a welder, or metal working skills enough to try to
      build it out of any other material.

      I DO NOT want the bottom to rot out again, from driving on wet
      streets etc. So I was hoping to get some info from the group about
      waterproofing the wood or adding a protective barrier underneath.

      Also would like if someone had plans or ideas about the enclosing
      structure. I am thinking maybe 4 ft high (low profile) rounded top(so
      rainwater doesn't stand) and sturdy doors, to prevent (limit) break
      ins. This trailer is being built to contain our Period tent,
      furniture, and other camping and SCA armour/stuff. So it will contain
      thousands of dollars of stuff, and while I am going to be parking it
      inside our garage, I would like it solid enough to leave out
      overnight if needed, and have peice of mind that it will most likely
      be strong enough to detere a criminal

      Again sorry for the slightly off topic post

      Thanks
      Gavin
    • Tracy Swanson
      For the floor, use a rot-resistant wood such as redwood, Cyprus, etc. As for the break-in issue, park in a we;;-lit area that can be observed by yourself and
      Message 2 of 9 , May 30, 2008
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        For the floor, use a rot-resistant wood such as redwood, Cyprus, etc. As for the break-in issue, park in a we;;-lit area that can be observed by yourself and neighbors. Remember: a lock is there only to keep an honest person honest - a dishonest person will have the tools, time and know-how to get past just about anything you can think of to keep the door shut.
         
        In Magical Service,
        Malaki
         
        -----Original Message-----
        From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of gavin.kinkade
        Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 7:18 AM
        To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
        Subject: [MedievalSawdust] RE-Making a Trailer

        Greatings group,

        This is a tad off topic, but hopefull someone can lend some helpful
        advice.

        I just bought a 4x8 trailer from a friend. Basically is a metal
        frame, wheels, hitch, lights, and a plywood floor(rotting thru) Some
        simple bars for sides, and wooden wheel wells.

        I want to re-make the trailer and make it so its completely enclosed.
        I am going to build most of it with wood and exterior grade plywood.
        As I do not have a welder, or metal working skills enough to try to
        build it out of any other material.

        I DO NOT want the bottom to rot out again, from driving on wet
        streets etc. So I was hoping to get some info from the group about
        waterproofing the wood or adding a protective barrier underneath.

        Also would like if someone had plans or ideas about the enclosing
        structure. I am thinking maybe 4 ft high (low profile) rounded top(so
        rainwater doesn't stand) and sturdy doors, to prevent (limit) break
        ins. This trailer is being built to contain our Period tent,
        furniture, and other camping and SCA armour/stuff. So it will contain
        thousands of dollars of stuff, and while I am going to be parking it
        inside our garage, I would like it solid enough to leave out
        overnight if needed, and have peice of mind that it will most likely
        be strong enough to detere a criminal

        Again sorry for the slightly off topic post

        Thanks
        Gavin

      • Beth and Bob Matney
        I have a 4 by 8 trailer that I use to haul (and store) bulk pinebark mulch.. stored unprotected in the weather, so it is almost constantly moist. I used half
        Message 3 of 9 , May 30, 2008
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          I have a 4 by 8 trailer that I use to haul (and store) bulk pinebark
          mulch.. stored unprotected in the weather, so it is almost constantly
          moist. I used half inch treated plywood for the floor and sides (4
          foot tall with no top). These are the same sheets for over 7 years. I
          braced the sides with 2 by 4 treated lumber and they have warped. I
          would suggest using angle iron bolted to the plywood instead for the braces.

          Beth

          At 07:17 AM 5/30/2008, you wrote:
          >Greatings group,
          >
          >This is a tad off topic, but hopefull someone can lend some helpful
          >advice.
          >
          >I just bought a 4x8 trailer from a friend. Basically is a metal
          >frame, wheels, hitch, lights, and a plywood floor(rotting thru) Some
          >simple bars for sides, and wooden wheel wells.
          >
          >I want to re-make the trailer and make it so its completely enclosed.
          >I am going to build most of it with wood and exterior grade plywood.
          >As I do not have a welder, or metal working skills enough to try to
          >build it out of any other material.
          >
          >I DO NOT want the bottom to rot out again, from driving on wet
          >streets etc. So I was hoping to get some info from the group about
          >waterproofing the wood or adding a protective barrier underneath.
          >
          >Also would like if someone had plans or ideas about the enclosing
          >structure. I am thinking maybe 4 ft high (low profile) rounded top(so
          >rainwater doesn't stand) and sturdy doors, to prevent (limit) break
          >ins. This trailer is being built to contain our Period tent,
          >furniture, and other camping and SCA armour/stuff. So it will contain
          >thousands of dollars of stuff, and while I am going to be parking it
          >inside our garage, I would like it solid enough to leave out
          >overnight if needed, and have peice of mind that it will most likely
          >be strong enough to detere a criminal
          >
          >Again sorry for the slightly off topic post
          >
          >Thanks
          >Gavin
        • Stuart Tingle
          ... hi, if you are wanting to put together an SCA campaboard trailor, many knowledgable folks hang out at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vardoshavora/ A list
          Message 4 of 9 , May 30, 2008
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            --- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, "gavin.kinkade" <goakes@...>
            wrote:
            >
            > Greatings group,
            >
            > This is a tad off topic, but hopefull someone can lend some helpful
            > advice.
            >

            hi, if you are wanting to put together an SCA campaboard trailor, many
            knowledgable folks hang out at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vardoshavora/
            A list for modern period style wagon making.

            Aleyn Wykington
          • Chas
            My first trailer was a homebuilt job that I bought for $250 put new tires and a new deck on. then discovered it wouldn t ride right and added shocks to it. It
            Message 5 of 9 , May 30, 2008
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              My first trailer was a homebuilt job that I bought for $250 put new
              tires and a new deck on. then discovered it wouldn't ride right and
              added shocks to it. It still needs work to get it right. new springs
              now would help it a lot. This has an old car axle and leaf spring
              (single leaf) which is part of my problem it needs new springs with
              multiple leaves. The deck I put on was recycling wood I already had
              with Oil based porch paint on all surfaces before assembly. Now if I
              leave it outside without leaving the tailgate off and the trailer
              tilted back it will fill with water.

              Be VERY aware your weight ratings. In NY they will check your axle
              for weight rating and send you back to the DMV. They also need to
              know what it weighs before you register it. Different states have
              differing requirements though so check with your local DMV. Howeer if
              you expect to tow 1000 pounds of gear on a trailer that weighs 800
              pounds with a 1500 pound axle and tire combo your in trouble right
              off the bat. Making an enclosed trailer with several hundred pounds
              of wood limits your cargo capapcity no matter how big the interior
              space is.

              There are a few websites about building lightweight teardrop style
              trailers from the small & relatively cheap harbor frieght trailer
              chassis. I've since lost the saved links but you should be able to
              find them with a simple search. this is one that I found usefull
              http://www.mikenchell.com/forums/

              Also bear in mind that whatever you store inside will mold if it is
              wet or damp inside or when placed inside . Store your stuff as dry as
              possible! Hate to see canvas tents go bad in storage!

              Good luck and post photos of the finished product!

              Valentine Lyme


              --- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, "gavin.kinkade" <goakes@...>
              wrote:
              >
              > Greatings group,
              >
              > This is a tad off topic, but hopefull someone can lend some helpful
              > advice.
              >
              > I just bought a 4x8 trailer from a friend. Basically is a metal
              > frame, wheels, hitch, lights, and a plywood floor(rotting thru)
              Some
              > simple bars for sides, and wooden wheel wells.
              >
              > I want to re-make the trailer and make it so its completely
              enclosed.
              > I am going to build most of it with wood and exterior grade
              plywood.
              > As I do not have a welder, or metal working skills enough to try to
              > build it out of any other material.
              >
              > I DO NOT want the bottom to rot out again, from driving on wet
              > streets etc. So I was hoping to get some info from the group about
              > waterproofing the wood or adding a protective barrier underneath.
              >
              > Also would like if someone had plans or ideas about the enclosing
              > structure. I am thinking maybe 4 ft high (low profile) rounded top
              (so
              > rainwater doesn't stand) and sturdy doors, to prevent (limit) break
              > ins. This trailer is being built to contain our Period tent,
              > furniture, and other camping and SCA armour/stuff. So it will
              contain
              > thousands of dollars of stuff, and while I am going to be parking
              it
              > inside our garage, I would like it solid enough to leave out
              > overnight if needed, and have peice of mind that it will most
              likely
              > be strong enough to detere a criminal
              >
              > Again sorry for the slightly off topic post
              >
              > Thanks
              > Gavin
              >
            • Robert
              So far, some great advice on using rot-resistant materials like treated plywood -- but you can add years of life to the floor by also fully sealing the edges
              Message 6 of 9 , May 30, 2008
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                So far, some great advice on using rot-resistant materials like
                treated plywood -- but you can add years of life to the floor by also
                fully sealing the edges before installation, painting the underside
                with automotive undercarriage sealer (comes in spray cans, leaves a
                heavy deposit of black plastic-like waterproofing material), and using
                stainless steel bolts and nuts for all attachments. If any parts of
                the frame are aluminum, do NOT use galvanized fasteners -- there's a
                reaction between the zinc coating and aluminum that destroys both.
                (Personal experience on that!)

                Also, watch the weight of the materials you use -- the heavier they
                are, the less load the trailer will be able to carry. Good luck!

                --- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, "gavin.kinkade" <goakes@...>
                wrote:
                >
                > Greatings group,
                >
                > This is a tad off topic, but hopefull someone can lend some helpful
                > advice.
                >
                > I just bought a 4x8 trailer from a friend. Basically is a metal
                > frame, wheels, hitch, lights, and a plywood floor(rotting thru) Some
                > simple bars for sides, and wooden wheel wells.
                >
                > I want to re-make the trailer and make it so its completely enclosed.
                > I am going to build most of it with wood and exterior grade plywood.
                > As I do not have a welder, or metal working skills enough to try to
                > build it out of any other material.
                >
                > I DO NOT want the bottom to rot out again, from driving on wet
                > streets etc. So I was hoping to get some info from the group about
                > waterproofing the wood or adding a protective barrier underneath.
                >
                > Also would like if someone had plans or ideas about the enclosing
                > structure. I am thinking maybe 4 ft high (low profile) rounded top(so
                > rainwater doesn't stand) and sturdy doors, to prevent (limit) break
                > ins. This trailer is being built to contain our Period tent,
                > furniture, and other camping and SCA armour/stuff. So it will contain
                > thousands of dollars of stuff, and while I am going to be parking it
                > inside our garage, I would like it solid enough to leave out
                > overnight if needed, and have peice of mind that it will most likely
                > be strong enough to detere a criminal
                >
                > Again sorry for the slightly off topic post
                >
                > Thanks
                > Gavin
                >
              • heartoftheforest
                ... Some ... Some other good resources can found on the yahoo groups for pensic homes and medieval encampments. You probably have already checked it out, but
                Message 7 of 9 , May 30, 2008
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                  --- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, "gavin.kinkade" <goakes@...>
                  wrote:
                  >
                  > Greatings group,
                  >
                  > This is a tad off topic, but hopefull someone can lend some helpful
                  > advice.
                  >
                  > I just bought a 4x8 trailer from a friend. Basically is a metal
                  > frame, wheels, hitch, lights, and a plywood floor(rotting thru)
                  Some
                  > simple bars for sides, and wooden wheel wells.
                  >
                  >
                  Some other good resources can found on the yahoo groups for pensic
                  homes and medieval encampments.

                  You probably have already checked it out, but just in case, make sure
                  your trailer can handle the weight of SCA stuff, a lot of those 4x8
                  trailers can't take much load and the tongue and axle will buckle, I
                  had to replace both on mine as my SCA load grew.

                  Have fun expanding to meet your new space!
                  HL Ellyne in An Tir
                • paul
                  This is the link for the Teardrop trailer forum. They have plans and lots of discussions of various aspects of light trailering.
                  Message 8 of 9 , May 30, 2008
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                    This is the link for the Teardrop trailer forum. They have plans and
                    lots of discussions of various aspects of light trailering.

                    http://www.mikenchell.com/forums/



                    gavin.kinkade wrote:
                    >
                    > Greatings group,
                    >
                    > This is a tad off topic, but hopefull someone can lend some helpful
                    > advice.
                    >
                    > I just bought a 4x8 trailer from a friend. Basically is a metal
                    > frame, wheels, hitch, lights, and a plywood floor(rotting thru) Some
                    > simple bars for sides, and wooden wheel wells.
                    >
                    > I want to re-make the trailer and make it so its completely enclosed.
                    > I am going to build most of it with wood and exterior grade plywood.
                    > As I do not have a welder, or metal working skills enough to try to
                    > build it out of any other material.
                    >
                    > I DO NOT want the bottom to rot out again, from driving on wet
                    > streets etc. So I was hoping to get some info from the group about
                    > waterproofing the wood or adding a protective barrier underneath.
                    >
                    > Also would like if someone had plans or ideas about the enclosing
                    > structure. I am thinking maybe 4 ft high (low profile) rounded top(so
                    >
                  • Ralph Lindberg
                    You ve already gotten some great advise, another idea is to use the same material as RV manufacturers put underneath their plywood floors. It is a (generally)
                    Message 9 of 9 , Jun 1, 2008
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                      You've already gotten some great advise, another idea is to use the
                      same material as RV manufacturers put underneath their plywood floors.
                      It is a (generally) black, woven fabric that allows water vapor to
                      pass, but stops the liquid. This allows the plywood to dry out (really
                      important)
                      You should be able to buy this material from your local RV store or
                      Camping World (chain camping supply store)
                      I couldn't find it on-line (in a 30 second search), but I know the
                      stuff exists and you can buy it, because I have bought and used it

                      Ralg
                      AnTir
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