Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

6089Re: Board feet

Expand Messages
  • Jared
    Apr 5 7:31 PM
    • 0 Attachment
      --The worst thing about green oak is its real heavy, but it will cut a
      bit easier under your chisel when its green. My dairy barn was timber
      framed with green oak 100 years ago and its still standing. I have
      read many books on timber frame, in at least one, the builder used
      green oak to frame a house, his findings were basically just what I
      said, its heavy, but strong. You will want to get all your timbers
      framed into the structure before they dry out too much and start to
      warp. If not, at least stack them and maybe band the pile with plenty
      of stickers in between, to keep them as straight as you can till they
      get used. If you cut real mortise and tenons and peg them with dry
      dowels, you should have tight joints. One thing to remember, wood
      glue wont work at all, on green lumber, PL200 subfloor/construction
      adheasive, is rated to bond green treated lumber, and will work much
      better, if you intended to use any glues.
      Jared

      - In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, "Robb Schuster" <schusterrl@...>
      wrote:
      >
      > Next question
      >
      > The local Amish can supply me with the wood i need
      >
      > Their prices are $0.15/board foot to cut logs we supply, and I believe
      > $0.50/ board foot for [oak] lumber he cuts from his supply.
      >
      >
      > Now in period (Viking Age) i dont see initial settlements being
      > constructed of dried wood. I imagine the lumber for the first few
      > houses were cut on site.
      >
      > I admit I dont know alot about woods, is using green oak REAL BAD?
      > (Basically we are using timber framing methods)
      > Does oak shrink badly?
      >
      > Halv
      >
    • Show all 23 messages in this topic