Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

5300Re: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain

Expand Messages
  • James W. Pratt, Jr.
    Nov 9, 2005
    • 0 Attachment
      The other side er..edge is that  a scaper will cut knots and curly grain better than a plane.  There is such a thing as a scraper plane and a Stanley #70 I think.. scraper thing that looks a lot like a spoke shave only with a big flat face.
       
      James Cunningham

      There are two issues with using a scraper.  First, the edge is completely unconstrained, so that unless you have godlike skill you will not get the work truly flat.  Secondly, a scraper doesn't leave as clean a surface as a plane.  Better than sanding, but still not as nice as a plane.
      -----Original Message-----
      From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Conal O'hAirt Jim Hart
      Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2005 2:06 PM
      To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
      Subject: RE: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain

      What about a finishing scraper with a fresh burr?

      I'm asking, not advising......



      --- kjworz@... wrote:

      >
      > Another tip:
      >
      > If you can, skew the blade at an angle to the line
      > of planing, as the angle provides even more slicing
      > action vis scraping/crushing action.
      >
      > Old time expensive shooting boards often had a
      > shooting plane with a skewed angle built into the
      > bed.  If you have oodles of money and a lot of time
      > to hunt one down you could go that route, but I
      > doubt it is worth the effort for you.  You can get
      > good results with the everyday tools that all the
      > tips that have been provided and a small bit of
      > skill.
      >
      > Are skewed planes blades Period?  Probably not.  I
      > have heard of no example extant.  Is skewed planing
      > technique Period?  Probably.  No evidence confirming
      > either way.
      >
      >
      > --
      > -Chris Schwartz
      > Silver Spring, MD
      >
      >
      > To add on to this topic, here's a few things I
      > learned this weekend:
      > - Make sure your plane sole is well flattened.
      > - Sharpen to blade until it splits photons.
      > - Set the cap iron (Provided it has one) a hair's
      > breadth from the edge of the blade.
      > - Close down the mouth so that it is only slightly
      > wider than the thickest shaving you want to take.

      > Breakout on the far end of the stroke will not be a
      > problem if you back up the work with a stop block.
      > A shooting board will make this much easier.

      > A well tuned plane can take a shaving from any wood
      > in any direction.  I saw this with my own eyes, and
      > have little doubt that I can replicate the feat. 

      > Charles Joiner
      > Caid
      > -----Original Message-----
      > From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
      > [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
      > Craig Robert Pierpont
      > Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 11:21 AM
      > To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
      > Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain
      >
      >
      > Laurence,
      >     Use a sharp low angled block plans set to take a
      > very fine cut.
      >     The grain will split when the cut runs off the
      > edge of the board so you will have to work from both
      > ends of your board toward the center or cut a small
      > chamfer on the corner toward which the plane is
      > going before planing the end grain.
      >     It may be helpful to make narrow cuts working
      > across the end of the board from one side to the
      > other.
      >     Your first cuts will be hit and miss but once
      > you are below the rough stuff, you should be able to
      > take a cut that will leave the surface almost shiny.
      >     The way you handle the plane will be quite a bit
      > different from normal edge planing. If you don't
      > have somebody to show you, you'll just have to work
      > at till you get it. You'll get it.
      >
      > Craig Robert
      > Lord Craig Robert le Luthier de Pierrepont OVO CAR
      > Apprentice to Dame Alysea of Ashley
      >
      > medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com wrote:
      >  Date: Sun, 06 Nov 2005 18:11:37 -0000
      >    From: "lawrence_djd" <teffendar@...>
      > Subject: Cleaning up endgrain
      >
      > I've been working on a few projects in the past
      > week, and run into the
      > same problem on all of them.  I spend more than half
      > of my time on a
      > given project trying to clean up endgrain.  I'm
      > trying to work only
      > with tools I can document to the 15th century, which
      > means that the
      > only things I have found useful for this task are
      > chisels and files.
      > Does anyone have any suggestions as to ways I could
      > make this task
      > easier without using OOP methods?
      >
      > Laurence of Skraengham
      > Baronial College of Tor Aerie
      > Kingdom on Northshield
      >
      >


      Baron Conal O'hAirt / Jim Hart

         Aude Aliquid Dignum
           ' Dare Something Worthy '


                 
      __________________________________
      Yahoo! FareChase: Search multiple travel sites in one click.
      http://farechase.yahoo.com
    • Show all 13 messages in this topic